A few questions after 100 miles...

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by mrsaxman99, Dec 9, 2006.

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  1. mrsaxman99

    mrsaxman99 Guest

    1) Popping off the cover to the clutch level shows some wear on the edge of the "flat to cylindrical" part...the section that actually does the pushing. At this rate, it seems in 1000 miles or so, it'll wear right down to where you can't engage the clutch. Is it normal to show a little wear on the part?

    2) I am running a bit rich, but just a little. I am afraid if I adjust the needle to the next position leaner, it will bea tad too lean. It seems that the choke just makes the engine run really rich. Can I adjust the engine a little lean, and then slide the choke down until the engine runs just right?

    3) Does anyone know the max rpm the 80cc should be run?

    4) with the clutch in, how freely does your rear wheel spin? I adjusted my chain pretty tight so that it doesn't bounce all around under speed, and it seems to have made my rear wheel pretty stiff (when walking the bike, it will skid on my smooth garage floor.

  2. Edward

    Edward Guest

    1. The majority of wear on all the engine parts occurs rapidly during the break in process as all of the parts adjust to one another, then tapers off.
    Your description seems normal.
    2. Running rich, creates carbon fouling of the plug and exhaust, this is the safer of the extremes. Running lean, will seize the engine rings (soft seize) or seize the bearings (hard seize). Running just right, can be determined by doing a "plug chop" (procedure covered elsewhere in the topics).
    3. The rear wheel should offer almost no resistance to turning with the clutch engaged. Adjust the clutch at the flange nut after removing the small screw(the disappearing screw if your not careful). A tight chain will result in premature engine wear and stress. 1" or slightly more of play allows for the rear sprocket not being perfectly centered on the wheel (also normal, we can get them close but not perfect.)
  3. mrsaxman99

    mrsaxman99 Guest

    my chain was just a little too tight. the rear wheel spins more freely now. Though I haven't heard about adjusting the front sprocket/clutch. Where can I find detailed instructions on how to do this? I can spin the front sprocket by hand (with the clutch in), but it's pretty difficult, sound normal?

    still curious about the max rpm. There HAS to be a spec sheet SOMEWHERE that lists all the specs of the engine...
  4. deercrossing

    deercrossing Guest

    Rpm spec sheet and plug gap

    I would be interested about the spec sheet too. Also just what is the right gap on the plug?

    I keep reading and keep learning. Greeet stuff!!!!
  5. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    Dec 15, 2006
    Likes Received:
    Re: Rpm spec sheet and plug gap

  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Did you grease the flat on the clutch lever? If not do it asap.
    Keep the chain loose, not semi-tight like a motorcycle. 3/4-1" at the loosest part in the run.

    When you say "a little rich" do you mean it runs good going up hills, and while accelerating, but seems to four cycle or switch back and forth between a two and four cycle when running at light load? Then it's about perfect. That's kind of the nature of these piston ported engines. It was very common to read old reviews for two stroke bikes and scooters in the 50's and 60's and read about the clean break between two and four cycling.
  7. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    I haven't experienced one of these engines "4 Cycling" Does it actually go through the cycles of a 4 stroke? Does it sound like one?