A few questions from a new Builder...

Thanks Don I was going to ask you for them videos . I saw them in one of your comments/post
 
This video has been extremely helpful. Breaks down the in and out workings of the clutch, and possible solutions.



Back wheel still moving freely, so I need to keep adjusting. But the motor is purring a lil bit now so hopefully I'm doing something right.
 
On occasion the shaft will get rusted to the body of the engine and will not let the clutch operate. Remove the disc and turn the nut underneath with a socket to free it up. Check 16 minute mark on above video.
 
Also happy to report I'm getting spark again. Back wheel still moving freely
 
If anybody can tell me exactly which part or gear is responsible for locking the back wheel, then I'll better know what to adjust. Right now I'm adjusting everything hoping something works.
 
The biggest gear on the engine is the clutch. To adjust it by turning the flower nut in the center of gear remove the little Phillip screw the adjust the flower nut.
 
A few things of note for anyone else having this problem with a new kit:

From what I understand now, it's the clutch pads (the 10 little brown pads under the clutch plate) that are held against the plate which keeps the back wheel from moving. Tightening the flower nut as mentioned above brings the plate closer or away from those pads. And pulling the clutch arm toward you, as you adjust the flower nut, may also help.

Also, If the pads are greasy, or not thick enough, you may not get proper grip no matter what other adjustments are made, and the rear wheel wont engage. I cleaned my pads, and this very well may be the reason I'm now getting some activity in the engine, and once again have spark.

I will be cleaning and adjusting my pads more, and possibly ordering some new ones off Amazon for 7 bucks, which people say are considerably thicker and grip better.
 
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Yes,,, grease on the pads is not good...

Brake clean """might""" clean them good enough,,, but I wouldn't count on it...

The flat disk that is held in place by the flower nut,,, is what I call the pressure plate/ or fly wheel...

And yes,,, you can see and feel this disk come free when you pull up on the clutch handle to disengage ...

When you let off the clutch handle,,, the disk slides inward towards the rubber pads,,, if the clutch cable or """flywheel/ disk""" is set correctly... it should not slip...

As per the PM...

12" of leverage for 2 1/2" movements would be ruffly 3 to 3 1/2 lbs force needed to open clutch... """Disk/ flywheel away from rubber pads... 👍
View attachment 96961

If you dont have a 12" rod or long vise grips,,, then use the simple way to check...
4" of clutch handle would ruffly be 9 to 10 lbs force needed to desanguage clutch
View attachment 96962

Of course each engine is a bit different with specs and how the clutch was set up... some clutch lever pulls might be more or less then 9 to 10 lbs of feeling...
4 to 5 lbs of clutch handle pull is not good,,, that is an indication that the inner shaft spring needs more tension...
Dont tighten to 15 to 17 lbs ,,, that's way too much too... unless you have an engines that has alot of power... Ha...

I have a bit of extra info,,, but its wize to stick to the basics for now...

Yes,,, try cleaning the rubber pads with brake clean / carb cleaner and the face of the disk that presses up agaisnt them,,, zero oil or grease... clean clean and clean...

If you feel that there is any slippage when riding with the power of the engine,,, then look into getting new pads...

In stall pads,,, clean disk/ flywheel ,,, reset,,, and test ride...

Pm me if your issue's persist

Old school Don 🥴
You can go through all that, or this https://motoredbikes.com/threads/auto-mini.56128/page-2
 
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