ADVANCED or RETARD just checking please answer real quick??

Diamond Back

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if you hold the magneto side crankshaft still at the 1 o'clock position of the woodruff key and turn the magnet CCW (to the left) is that retarding the timing ???

it should be cause that would be making it later for the pick up, just double checking brain fart,,, thank you for your help

The key way on these magnets is very sloppy on some engines I have found out, Mine is a 09/09/2015 ( the year is stamped on your stator on the coils)) SKYHAWK GT5 w/ 38mm stroke piston and ZAE80 connecting rod.

Because of the slop in key way some engines its been said that adjusting the magneto can make an engine a different animal and some peoples problems that seem unsolvable can be caused by this, worth a shot.

Engines like some retard timing at high RPMs..
 
thank you furry,, any thoughts on which way you would slightly adjust,,, ADVANCED or RETARD ???? i made a notched woodruff key so i can go either way

Well I guess you can try the key either way around and see which you prefer. :) But I thought you wanted to retard ignition and you just weren't sure which way around was right.
I'm no expert, lol, I just read the forum.
Jaguar describes this as "el cheapo" retardation. I would see it as a very blunt instrument.
I am saving up for Jaguar's adjustable CDI which has other benefits besides a retardation that varies with rpm.
 
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Well I guess you can try the key either way around and see which you prefer. :) But I thought you wanted to retard ignition and you just weren't sure which way around was right.
I'm no expert, lol, I just read the forum.
Jaguar describes this as "el cheapo" retardation. I would see it as a very blunt instrument.
I am saving up for Jaguar's adjustable CDI which has other benefits besides a retardation that varies with rpm.


yeah me too,,, i talk with him every night,,,great guy and smart,,,, but i want to get my stock setup right and in the correct position,,, that way i get the best from his CDI when i put it on,,,ya know
 
Look at this graph to see how the stock timing is too advanced. Retarding it benefits power throughout the powerband.
 
Look at this graph to see how the stock timing is too advanced. Retarding it benefits power throughout the powerband.


JAG/Mike help me out here with some explaining,, I am not to good reading this graph I think..
what I am seeing is that the stock CDI starts at 9 degrees retarded and curves to 33 retarded but only allowing RPM's to top out at 7,800.. is this the wall I keep hitting with my bike at 7,560 ??? It would make sense cause i believe my motor with the sloppy key way is all the way CW to the right,, That Grubee CDI line on the graph is exactly how my motor runs,,exactly..weird !!!

it looks like you trying to mimic digital RM250 CDI.. you have a 0 degree on startup and retard as you rev to 3,500 rpms then you advance it so you can rev out to 10,000 RPM's,, so i take it that by retarding all the way cuts your power and RPM's short, but if you start to advance the curve at a certain rpm and back down on retard curve to where your now still retarded but advancing so you have less and less retard degrees your able to get the engine to rev out to a farther RPM (10,000)..

what I dont get is what your adjustments are actually doing that are beneficent or helping,,,,
JAG/MIKE,, I got some questions for you about this,,, you want to email me to finish this up ???privacy,, cant let all your tricks out the bag with this group of characters,,

hey anybody ever see these spark plugs before and where do you get them from or any multi prong or rim fire plug from
s-l500.jpg
 
that charts shows degrees of advance firing, or how many degrees before TDC when the plug fires.
the stock CDI doesn't stop working at 7800 rpm, it's just that's as far as I tested it, knowing that most people won't port their engines to rev high.
With a 250cc engine it is beneficial to not let the engine rev out higher than about 9500 rpm because then the stress on the piston can make it crack. That's why the RM250 curve flattens out at the end. A small engine, on the other hand, can rev to 13,000 and not crack the small lightweight piston so there's no need for a rev limiter.
My graph shows all at once the multiple timing curves you can get by adjusting the 3 in 1 switch on my CDI. In reality only one of those curves can be in effect at any one time.
 
Not trying to hijack the thread but just curious if you can/have worked your magic on the newer hs 4 strokers with their rev limited cdi, would be nice to squeeze out some more speed without killing my hillclimbing ability.
 
that charts shows degrees of advance firing, or how many degrees before TDC when the plug fires.
the stock CDI doesn't stop working at 7800 rpm, it's just that's as far as I tested it, knowing that most people won't port their engines to rev high.
With a 250cc engine it is beneficial to not let the engine rev out higher than about 9500 rpm because then the stress on the piston can make it crack. That's why the RM250 curve flattens out at the end. A small engine, on the other hand, can rev to 13,000 and not crack the small lightweight piston so there's no need for a rev limiter.
My graph shows all at once the multiple timing curves you can get by adjusting the 3 in 1 switch on my CDI. In reality only one of those curves can be in effect at any one time.[/QUOTE

AAhhh,,, I see now Master,,, Can you notice a difference from your CDI... Like if i threw it on now and took the bike out,,WHAT WOULD I NOTICE FROM WARM UP TO 20 MINUTES INTO RIDE,,,going up hills and flying wide open on the straight,, to just cruising around the tight in town streets ??

and how many adjustments are there 3 or 4,,, why did you put these adjustments in from your first CDI version 1,,, and what does each adjustment do and how you know what one is best for you ???

Bet you have your hands full with those questions,,, you wont answer them all,,, that I know...lol
 

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