Advice: Clear Coat Or Not To Clear Coat? (And the trouble I'm having with finishing.)

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When doing any paint job on metal.
1) Sand
2) Bondo repairs if necessary.
3) clean
4) Primer
5) Paint
6) Clear Coat
7) Buff
Yeah I know but I'm so past spending more money on this. Finishing compound would run $30 + dollars if I'm lucky. I decided to "fog" the clear coat on the part. I held the clear spray can extra far away and let it mist onto the surface apply multiple coats one minute apart. The effect is a grainy sort of look and appears intentional (it was :p ) where orange peel doesn't appear intentional. It's a budget way to get around the problem.
 
I think ya had problems with it just because it was a cheep brand of clear

Or if you used enamel paint that's why if orange pealed when ya sprayed clear on it
 
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First, I'm using spray cans. Also this is for my shift kit mount, not my bike: My base coat looked pretty good. I wanted to add a clear coat to give added protection (not gonna lie, I also like the gloss) but the orange peel is insane. I've watched many videos on cutting and finishing. I'm tired of spending money and don't want to buy finishing compound. I don't want to spend any more money and I don't want to wait (again) for something to come in the mail to start assembly. I'm not at all impatient, I've simply spent way too much time on this part and want to get past it.

Now here are the real questions:

  • Does a clear coat really add extra protection to the job, or is it fine to skip it?
  • As I understand it, orange peel can be made worse by not having enough air in your mix. Since I'm using spray cans and cannot change the amount of air, can I get a similar result of less air by moving my can even further away from the part than is suggested? (8" to 10")
I tried to make a homemade cutting compound using toothpaste, baking soda and bees wax furniture polish, but I think the baking soda did more harm than good. I was unable to get the scratches out and the finish was hazy looking. I used 1500 - 2500 - 3000 sand paper.
First if you want a really good top coat that will come out nice prep prep prep a fine grit wet sand (600 grit to prep your base coat for adhesion. If you use a can get some 2 part clear coat .if you have orange peal a 2000 grit wet sand followed with carbona wax
 
Rustoleum Xo rust. Not the crap they sell in California I think its latex and its worthless.
I used to use xo rust on my model airplanes and it withstood 15 percent nitro, methanol and whatever else is in model airplane fuel.
 
First if you want a really good top coat that will come out nice prep prep prep a fine grit wet sand (600 grit to prep your base coat for adhesion. If you use a can get some 2 part clear coat .if you have orange peal a 2000 grit wet sand followed with carbona wax
Rustoleum Xo rust. Not the crap they sell in California I think its latex and its worthless.
I used to use xo rust on my model airplanes and it withstood 15 percent nitro, methanol and whatever else is in model airplane fuel.
Do you guys know that your trying to talk to someone who posted this almost three years ago???...
A little late to be giving him advice now, he is already done with this long ago...lol...lol.
 
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