Am I sane?

Knut is off, and so is much else...

I found out how to remove that smelly nut. Seems you need to push in on that clutch release lever such that it comes up from the pressure plate, and then it's easy to remove. The stuff behind it... EEeh, what a mess!. I trimmed those nasty asbestos-ey things so the pressure plate won't grind. So far, the following occurs to me:
1) replace all of that vile Chin-Lee hardware with some decent metric stuff from a good hardware store. (Chin-Lee - a M.A.S.H. episode involving a battle-maddened Turkish soldier. He was refering to the Chinese Communists...)
2) clean up that stinking nut and case-harden the dratted thing.
3) clean up (with an external hone) the clutch shaft (Urgh!) and then bush the hole with a brass bushing. The current arrangement has nearly thirty thousandth's of an inch of 'slop' in it, and two thousandths' is about right. I'm not sure a grease fitting is possible to fit, but if I can fit one, I will.
4) replace the 'clutch-rods with correctly turned-to-size drill-rod drawn back to a spring temper. Again, the existing parts are horribly undersized in the hole, which means vague clutch action and a horrible 'feel'.
5) replace that vile Chin-Lee ignition wire. (Done, good old-stock silicone metal-core wire plus a good boot. Came from an Accel ignition wire kit I bought years ago.)
6) Send out for some 'B6HV' gold paladium plugs. I'll have enough that I can sell or trade at least half of the ten I can get for 25$.
7) Replace any bearings I can readily remove with 'good' ones. I have an arbor press and can turn drifts for this.
8) 'Clean up' the ports. Note: this does not mean 'widen' or 'raise'. It means get rid of the more obvious casting lumps and bumps.

There will be more to this effort, as I'm going to go through this little brute and document it and what I do to it thoroughly.

I took my first pictures today, so if this needs to be moved to the frame-mounted section under 'fixing and fettling', by all means do so. I'll copy this and start a new thread there, in fact.

Someone asks me 'why'. Part is 'practice for the real deal', that being what I'm going to be making for myself. The other reason is 'some of those places I need to go are far enough away that I need to get myself motorized so as to fetch 'em. Given that I'll get reimbursed for any parts I buy, I consider this a decent
'deal'.
 
To my mind it all boils down to: Do you need substantial all-weather hill climbing ability, if so rollerdrive is prob.a bad idea and chain or belt drive would be preferable IMO.

Well said, especially if you're pulling a trailer.
 
...
Also, on friction drives: I like the idea of grit covered rollers but what if you used one hour glass shaped roller that sort of wrapped the tire instead of two rollers? Just a thought.
NOT a good idea...

The narrower part of the roller will have a lower speed then the wider part of the roller. This means that the wider part of the roller will be trying to make the tire spin faster than the narrower part of the tire, which in turn means that you'll have excessive wear designed into the roller.

For instance, if the narrow part of an hourglass-shaped roller was 1 inch diameter, and the wide part at 1.5 inch diameter, at 6000 RPM, the 1" portion will try to drive the bike at 17.8 MPH, while (AT THE SAME TIME) the 1.5 inch portion will try to drive the bike at 26.8 MPH...

In an hour or two, you would wear out a tire. Not to mention the fact that a good part of your power would be sucked up in needless friction.
 
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