Another Golden Eagle

Where can you get the set-back seatposts that I see on the Whizzer bikes? I don't have any good online sources for "old bike" parts, just the newer stuff....

[edit]
....Actually I see that bikepartsusa has some "old bike" stuff.
I'm loathe to order anything from "cruiser" dealers, all that stuff is usually aluminum and doesn't mix well with steel....

[edit #2]
Okay, I got a decent-height handlebar, a setback seatpost and some cable clamps coming.

I think I can deal with the matter of the rear wheel's axle still being too short. Now I just gotta find a jack I can get into a 3" space to bend the frame with......
~
 
Cruiser Bike Parts

I have a line of cruiser specific parts that I get from 4 different sources. I'm a Whizzer Dealer, and been doing Motor Bicycles for 7 years, PM or email me with what you need, a few things are on my site, let me know, Mike
 
Re: belt specs

MotorbikeMike said:
Hi well I dunno what that means, we use Ax type fracional hp belts is that what yours is or is it some toothed belt like on a cam or blower? Mike

Mike, this is what it looks like, Kevlar is what bullet-proof vests are reinforced with for strength.
92_belt1_1.jpg
 
kevlar belt

Hi ok, looks good I'm vaguely familiar with Kevlar, but is your sheave toothed, or is it smooth? Worksman is smooth, Mike
 
Re: kevlar belt

MotorbikeMike said:
Hi ok, looks good I'm vaguely familiar with Kevlar, but is your sheave toothed, or is it smooth? Worksman is smooth, Mike

It's not called a sheave, it's called a gear ring:
92_ring1_1.jpg


148 teeth in the belt track for better, no slip traction.
 
Re: kevlar belt

Torques said:
It's not called a sheave, it's called a gear ring:

I'm with Torques, "gear ring" or "spoke ring" clears up a lot of misunderstandings.....

Proper installation of the gear ring is the 75% of the trick to smooth operation and thousands of miles of belt use.

The other part is the cradling the belt into the gear itself, making sure the belt is centered as much as possible, and not rubbing the edges.

21_alum7assembly_022_3.jpg
 
There was a reply in here somewhere that said "put a second washer behind the gear", which would be my second choice to get the belt cradled in the center of the gear.

I try to convince a customer to get a new bike, not pull one out of a barn and try and make it work. I found the Sun Cruisers to work consistently.

BUT, if I have to shift things left or right by a fraction, I put one of the legs of the axle mount INSIDE of the bike frame, rather than have both legs on the outside, secured by the axle nut.

Most times that shifting will do the trick.
 
Well so far--the coaster brake had almost no grease in it, so I need to grease the gear side too. I also got the frame bent to where the wheel with ring should fit in, if not I can bend it a bit more.

Has anyone done a GEBE on a Worksman wheel? The spoke ring notches don't line up quite right.

When I had the GEBE kit on the previous bike (with regular-thickness wheels) the notches lined up perfect, but with the Worksman, only half the spokes fall into the notches. The other half are about 1/16" off.

I realize the notches have to be drilled out, but half the spokes are too far away to go in anyway. And if I cut more notches for the spokes that are off, then they're so close to the existing holes that those spokes aren't really going to help hold the ring on.
~
 
The one and only Workmans wheel I did was that 24" front wheel on the tricycle, and I seem to recall two spokes were tough to line up before the snap.

The customer was with me on the porch, and it took thirty minutes of spinning that ring around, and agreeing on the closest fit. Gene drilled the holes (his bike, I was just helping), and he offset the one or two holes AFTER eyeball inspection, so those two notch could be considered an "L" shape.

They are 10 gauge, and so it "looks" a lot more severe. But 10 gauge will not slip back up the slot once seated in the notch.

10 gauge is a bugger. :???:
 
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