Any engine modifiers out there?

oh yeah clutches are big on these bikes if you tighten it up they also need to be heavier so they engage harder and dont slip
 
Last edited:
I've worked on both too, and your eyes must be seeing the finer details in the "Cag" engine that my eyes don't. Oh, and any engine that cannot be over-revved is called "restricted". :LOL:

I remember when I was 18 and knew everything...... ahhhh the good old days. ;)

Seriously though - when I was a teenager, I was constantly tinkering around with mini-bikes, mopeds, old scooters, etc. (much like yourself) This is a hobby that has stuck with me my entire life. Even though I never worked as a mechanic, I do hold (an outdated) ASE Master Technician certificate. My neighbor was a mechanic and car/motorcycle nut and I learned a lot from him too. One of the things I learned from him and my father was that you never know as much as you think you do, and a little humility goes a long way.

i work in a machine shop bud and when did i say i knew everything?
the chinese kits that are on those sites blow. i didnt say anything about the jap engines did i?
the cag engine does have flaws such as a poorly made reed cage design(but its cheap:)) and an under sized carb, bad port timing, and the expansion chambers were very very small and hd the head pipe ike halfway into the the divergant cone! but any person who knows the fine art of hot roding can fix those things and make a great engine. did you know there are three main branches of the chinese mitsu clone engines? there are the top quality one that have a cast M on the cases and then there is the meduim one that has the sanren or as we pbikers call "the squigely line motor" and then the lowest and most comon...the no namer
 
There's a couple of ways to get the clutch to engage a the proper rpm and get it to hit harder. First install heavier springs (red) and second is to add the weights on the shoes (headless allen screws)
Good luck getting the bike going. PM me if you have any questions I can help you with.
 
Yes, I worked only on a DM and a cag. But I know alot about the motors from c1 to real Italian motors. That's why I put 6000+ rpms. If you set the engagement too high, after a few laps the clutch engages at a higher rpm then its off to the pits to replace the clutch shoes you've burnt up. I see you have Scott at PBU as a sponsor. How's he doing these days. He has quite the spread in the Santa Cruz Mountains. He has my dream garage. His two story garage with the fish tank mounted in the wall is sweet!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i work in a machine shop bud and when did i say i knew everything?
the chinese kits that are on those sites blow. i didnt say anything about the jap engines did i?...................

The way you post gives away your "know it all" attitude. Mitsubishi is a "jap" engine, right? Why I even bother with a skidmark like yourself is beyond me. :rolleyes:
 
if your going to be disrespectfull arceeguy then dont post. any person who isnt willing to listen to any kind of advice good or bad is ignorant. the way you post gives you away as the typical old man who thinks he knows better. so dont be getting all ****y at me .

easy rider have you run any of the bzm clutches? ive also heard about this new clutch thats all metal without clutch pads that doesnt burn up. and i havent heard from scott for a long time and i dont buy to much from him cause some of his products hurt the wallet lmao ive never seen his garage or met him in person but i have raced some of his bikes
 
if your going to be disrespectfull arceeguy then dont post. any person who isnt willing to listen to any kind of advice good or bad is ignorant. the way you post gives you away as the typical old man who thinks he knows better. so dont be getting all ****y at me....

I wish you would follow your own advice. Remember this comment that was directed at me?

v6 with snap your neck torque? lol!
have you ever driven a pre smog era v8?.......

You tried to ridicule me, yet you had absolutely no response to the fact that I have owned more "pre smog era V8" powered vehicles than you are years old, you knew nothing about me, yet decided that I had no experience with cars that I actually own(ed) that are just a wet dream to you. Your posting attitude (with all the "lol" and "lmao" comments) leads me to believe (and anyone who reads your drivel) that you "know it all". Tell you what, you lose your "know it all" attitude, and I promise I'll leave "team skidmark racing" and your rip roarin' 50cc engines alone. ;)
 
ive also heard about this new clutch thats all metal without clutch pads that doesnt burn up.

I've used every type of BZM shoes from Standard, Strong and Carbonium. Show me a link to the all steel pads and show Arces that you really know your stuff.
From what I know about Scott, he's never sponsored anyone. I know at one point he was going to sponsor a buddy of mine but it never happened.
 
If it's a trimmer engine with a trimmer clutch, truing everything up with a dremel helps, so some of the shoes don't engage before the others. Run a sanding drum around the outside edge of the engine discs, so that they're all flush and flat. My boot couldn't stop my clutch after I did that to mine.

Mine has three discs that screw onto the engine, that spool up with rpm.
 
Back
Top