Anyone with 212cc Predator on a Shift Kit?

One ordering mistake affects other parts ordering. I misplaced my 17t jackshaft outboard sprocket. It'll show up later, so I ordered a 16t for variety. Gearing in 7th gear changed from 5.45 to 5.79:1.
 
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It was VERY difficult to find a centrifugal clutch w/a timing pulley. Gopowersports.com was the only vendor. When asked repeatedly what pitch the pulley had, they answered "It's 1.5", the pulley's length.
I had no choice but to buy the only timing clutch available. At least it was a dependable Max Torq.
When it arrived, I noticed the teeth were more narrowly spaced than the 44t jackshaft pulley I was gonna use.
The 23t clutch's teeth were 5mm apart. The 44 had 8mm pitch.
No match.
On ebay, I found 2 new old stock(NOS) clutch drums w/8mm pulleys. I almost bought them, but they wouldn't fit clone engines.😰

So, I found a 44t sprocket with the same 5mm pitch as my new 23t go kart clutch. I ordered that.
This sprocket was used in a factory assembly line. The other sprockets I'm using for jackshaft output(16t) and chainrng(83t) came from vintage go karts.
When they're belted together, First gear will be 11.58:1, and Seventh gear is 5..79:1.

Perfect.
 
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The centrifugal clutch drum is 4.25" diameter. Its 23t cog is 1.45".
The 44t on the jackshaft is 2.75".
Gear ratio here at this jackshaft sprocket is 1.91:1.
The 17t on the outboard is 1.7" diameter. The 83t chainring sprocket is 8.3". Ratio here is 5.188.
Total gearing up to this point is 9.34:1.
 
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I mocked up the jackshaft, which will pass under the motor mount.
Also hung the 83t timing pulley onto the bottom bracket.
The 44t jackshaft pulley is 2.75" It sits directly below the 4.25" clutch.
On the other side, the 17t jackshaft pulley lies a few inches from the 83t, at the 2 o'clock position.

Both belts will be VERY short; clutch belt is 5mm-type, 83t belt is 8mm-type.
The clutch w/23t timing pulley is from go karts at carnivals.
The 44t is from a factory conveyor belt.
The 83t and 17t pulleys were used on go karts 50 years ago.
Everything is compact, and far from my legs.

It should be no problem fabricating the clutch/pulley cover and a pulley/belt guard.

Pictures to follow soon.
 
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It's just not me to spend big $$ on a custom fuel tank, even though they look fabulous.
Or buy a vintage cylinder tank without brackets for $100.
A 24-oz gas tank from my Tanaka engine fits right under my engine's valve cover.
Too small; I'd be filling up after every ride.
I found a CG rack-type tank and rack; it holds 3.375 quarts.
The rack is junk; its sump and petcock are at the tail end.
I'll use another rack and turn the tank 180 degrees.

Edit: I might shorten the small tank, and repurpose it as a tool box.
It'll fit well under the valve cover.
 
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I tried pillow blocks with 3/4" bearings for my jackshaft.
Man, they must weigh 2lbs each!
Instead of using the heavy stuff, I'll have some tabs welded on and hang two roller bearings.
Those should weigh less than 16 oz.
 
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The pedal arm from SBP wouldn't clear the pull starter on the 212 engine. It was 170mm long.
I just happened to have a 152mm pedal arm, threaded for a freewheel.
It cleared by half an inch!:)
And I was just about to chop the longer arm.
 
The pedal arm from SBP wouldn't clear the pull starter on the 212 engine. It was 170mm long.
I just happened to have a 152mm pedal arm, threaded for a freewheel.
It cleared by half an inch!:)
And I was just about to chop the longer arm.
Now I'm really confused, how can a 170 mm arm be shorter than a 152 mm arm?
 
I decided to discard the pull start and use an old-fashioned pull rope to start the engine.

The rope will be stored in my repurposed 24-oz fuel tank.

I'll make a flywheel cover: it'll look like a "top hat", to clear the starter pawl cup.

It's a good security measure; no one can start my engine and motor away.

And now my 170mm pedal arm clears the engine.;)
 
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