Anyone with 212cc Predator on a Shift Kit?

I installed the 7-speed chain to the 24t chainring sprocket.....
and it rubs on the edge of the 83-tooth timing pulley.

Normal chainring sprockets are less than 1/8" wide.
The 83t pulley is an inch wide.

I'm using the 83t cog as a chainring sprocket, which belts onto a 17t jackshaft sprocket.

Solutions could be to move the 24t further inward.....
or space the 83t pulley further outward.....
or both.
I may have to reverse the sprockets and have the 83t pulley on the inside,
and the 24t outside of the bottom bracket.

Last resort is to replace the 83t/17t pulleys with 36t/10t chain sprockets and a 16t clutch.:(
 
Last edited:
Funny how one change leads to another.

Working on my pull start make me curious enough to inspect the flywheel..
People say they're prone to explosiveness at high speed.

So I removed the stock flywheel and ordered a billet aluminum one.
Now my idea of a governed engine changes to an ungoverned one and more rpm.

Out comes the governor.

The hole from the governor's lever will be tapped for a brass nipple. It'll allow the crankcase to breathe into the valve cover.

I'll keep stock valve springs, which should limit rpms to 5,000rpm.

Perfect.
 
Did you get the billet flywheel with the advance built in to it? That's what I have on my cart, 8 degrees advance. Gov out, stronger valve springs and a 6500 rpm cam.
 
Things change.

Instead of using a jackshaft for a shift kit,
I'm belting the 23t pulley clutch directly to a 150t cog sprocket.

No jackshaft necessary.
Direct hook up from clutch to the bottom(BB) shaft.

The hub for the 150t gear will be welded directly onto a 1" hollow BB spindle.

I haven't secured the motor mount to the midframe yet.

The horizontal mount lies parallel to the ground, and
almost directly above the BB shaft.

The 5mm timing belt that I need ONLY comes in lengths of 7", 8.25" and 10.5".

If the engine shaft is less than, but close to 7" away from the BB shaft,
I can use the 7" belt without need for a tensioner.

If the distance is a bit more than 7",
then I'll need to use the 8.25" belt WITH a tensioner.

If the distance between shafts is less than, but close to 8.25" from each other,
I can use the 8.25" belt without a tensioner.

Since the engine mount is horizontal,
I can shim the motor mounts to stretch the belt for a tighter fit.
 
Without a jackshaft, gear ratios for a 7-speed bike will be higher,
especially in the last 3 gears.

Using a 34t-14t freewheel, First gear will be 9.24:1, and
Fourth gear to be 5.43:1.

Should be good enough for the flat roads and steep hills.

Crossing fingers.🙏
 
Yes, built in advance.
Im leaning towards 18lb. valve springs.
Stock cam.

Things changed.

I installed the billet flywheel and 18lb. springs.

When I installed an electric starter on this Lifan 212cc engine,
I had to remove the billet one and install a flywheel with starter gear teeth.

They do have a $200 billet starter flywheel.

However, you can't use the battery charging coil with it.:(

So, I'll run the cast iron OEM flywheel with starter gear and charging coil.

I could PROBABLY get by without a charging coil installed,

but I don't want to spend $200+ on the billet flywheel:(

It should be ok.

I'm not revving past 5,000rpm anyways.
 
Things changed.

I installed the billet flywheel and 18lb. springs.

When I installed an electric starter on this Lifan 212cc engine,
I had to remove the billet one and install a flywheel with starter gear teeth.

They do have a $200 billet starter flywheel.

However, you can't use the battery charging coil with it.:(

So, I'll run the cast iron OEM flywheel with starter gear and charging coil.

I could PROBABLY get by without a charging coil installed,

but I don't want to spend $200+ on the billet flywheel:(

It should be ok.

I'm not revving past 5,000rpm anyways.
I see some of the guys in carts running them up to 6500 without any issues.

5000 is still pretty quick on a bicycle.
 
Back
Top