are there any good head light kits?

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by skatingsamurai, Nov 10, 2007.

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  1. i got stoped by a cop today, and he was prieching about my lack luster lighting system so i think i better pony up for a nice set of lights. i searched on the forum for lights that i might be able to use but. im not that electrical savy so im not going to be able to go completely custom. i need working brake lights, turn signals, and a nice head light. i saw augie has a thread that talks about him makin his own but i was just wondering if anyone has come across a PACKAGE. im just looking for a one shot deal that i might be able to hook straight to the 6v generator on the bike. i dont feel confortable messing around with a battery on my bike. so, any one know of a good all n one kit?\


    and i hope this is in the right section

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    bicycle generators won't stand up to the speeds...the white wire will only run a single 3W bulb...try some searching about that to learn more...but they're dead-ends really.

    a whole bicycle lighting package doesn't seem to exist...but if the bucks are there, i bet the "niterider" lighting systems could be expanded.
  3. motoschwinn

    motoschwinn Guest

    I have a cateye set, I just keep the aa rechargeables for it. The head light goes forever on a set. It's the 5 LED type.
  4. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I also have a Cateye 5 LED Opticube. For a bike headlight, it's pretty good. I don't feel it's adequate for high speed riding in unlighted areas. Sorry I don't have anything more positive to say.
  5. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    I have the same thing... I am planning to use it as a high beam for the D7 - the fender mounted light is actually pretty good with high output NiMH in it.

    2 x 6v dynamos could be used to run a 12v light wired in series... that should provide more than enough power and light :)

    Jemma xx
  6. DougC

    DougC Guest

    This is one page selling bicycle rear turn signal/brake light kits.

    ...there is another page, selling a number of different bicycle brake/turn signals, but I have lost it. None of them are built much better than this one or priced much beyond $30 US, however--and I think this one is even listed on that other page. All of these use disposeable batteries by the by--I don't know how you might run them off the white wire. If you replaced all the bulbs with LEDs I guess it might work.

    For headlights I just use the Cateye el500's or the newer el-530's. I like to have two, in case one conks out--but even just one is bright enough for US road laws. In my experience, if you have ANY kind of front and rear light on a bicycle at night, the police won't hassle you--most people I see riding at night aren't using any lights at all.
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2007
  7. smapadatha

    smapadatha Guest

    Front light:
    This was an easy mod that even I could do. Total cost was about $100.00.
    - Halogen 25W Worklight from Home Depot: $25.00,
    - 5.2A 12V sealed lead acid battery: $20.00,
    - Battery Tender Plus 1.2A Charger: $55.00.

    The charger was obviously the largest cost, but it is a fantastic charger; bulletproof, with a trickle circuit so you can leave batteries plugged in (with a trickle charger you can buy 2 batteries and always leave 1 in the charger), and a 1.2 amp draw so it charges even big batteries FAST. I love that charger.

    Modding the worklight is trivial. It even has a built-in switch and heavy duty cigarette lighter cord. All you do is disconnect it from the base it comes with, add some simple wiring to connect it to your battery and mount the light on your bike (having a front basket makes this easy).


    Rear light:
    I bought the CatEye 1100D and mounted it to the spark plug cover on the Robin/Subaru 35cc. The CatEye 1100D is massively bright, but could not take the vibration from the engine, so I had to remount it to the rear of my helmet. It looks dorky as he**, but it's a very effective rear light.

    Turn signals:
    I thought about these but it got too complicated. They have to be bright enough, withstand the shock and vibration of a motored bike, and it's also hard to mount them in a visible location when most of the real estate on the back of your bike is taken up by engine stuff. I think this is better covered by hand signals as you approach an intersection and when you are stopped at an intersection to let drivers around you know your intent. There are special reflectors that you can wear as wrist bands to make your arms more visible at night.

    Reflective tape:
    Go to an auto parts store, or commercial hardware store. Buy reflective tape and plaster it on all 4 sides of your bike. (See also: It really does make you very visible at night and it uses no electricity. Amber is supposed to be the most visible. My co-workers think I have an unhealthy relationship with reflective tape, but I swear it's based on mutual respect! I mean, it makes you visible on the street; requires no maintenance, no batteries, and costs almost nothing. That's my kind of solution.

    Also, if you want to see a dramatic difference in how drivers treat you on the road, go to a local safety store (yes, they exist) and buy the same vest that city workers use. Mine is neon green with massive amounts of 2" wide mylar tape on all sides. Yes, I look like an industrial, glowing dork when I wear it. But you are putting all of that reflective material on your upper body where it is highly visible to drivers. I ride on tight urban streets and routes, with no bike path, at night, with cars going by me at high speeds, and those cars give me a wide berth, probably because they assume I'm either a bicycle cop or a weirdo (FYI - I'm not a bicycle cop), but who cares if it makes you safer?

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2007
  8. Danny3xd

    Danny3xd Member

    I am in the process of fabing a mount to use this; So, as yet can't tell you if it will work well enough. I just like the idea of free electricity.

    Sam! great thunking and I just ordered a roll you suggested. I just read the other night that most bike V auto accidents are from the side. (that from a light producer, so am not sure how valid) Thanks for the link and thought! Cool mod too Am now thinking of a safty vest with turn/brake lights mounted on back. haha
  9. I want this:

    A/C D/C charging,led lights,flood light,and emergency hand crank. Just need a way to mount it on my bike. Could be a permanent mount and if I remove the handle I can get the switch closer to the handlebar grips. Could charge it up when I park it at home. I park it inside my patio with a power source close by.
    Now to handle the rear. Ah. A simple generator with a bigger wheel so it would spin less should work with a simple 3 watt light. A bigger friction wheel would also mean less drag. You wouldn't even need a switch for that light. When it goes dark,just flip the generator to the tire and go.

    Attached Files:

  10. turbo/chaos

    turbo/chaos Guest

    hey all i just use a genarator kit just pluged in to my engine just make sure that the engine is realy warmed up first front and rear lights work and it is bright to and cost like 15bucks at walmart or target just instal a cut off switch

    all put the vids up soon its raining right know plus its 1 in the morning and my
    next door nehbors hate me already so later

    but my kit is a orginal 73 schiwwnn genarator kit and all origanal
  11. turbo/chaos

    turbo/chaos Guest

    Attached Files:

  12. caddymankc

    caddymankc Guest

    If you got a good rack, get 2 trailer lights and mount them on a milk crate, i have a blinker switch wired in and i run an almost fully charged 18volt battery out of a power wheels(fisher price toy lol), running 2 12 volt lights with 18v is ok but a single light would fry, i just need to figure out how to mount some big offroad truck lights, i have very bad visibility at night.
  13. twinkiex

    twinkiex Guest

    I got a cheap Bell light at Walmart. It was very bright, excellant, but last week I was riding along and suddely the thing just flew off my bike and broke into a million pieces. It only cost $8. Guess I will have to check the mount and mabey apply duct tape as needed. It was on there good, dont know why it flew off.
  14. garydl63

    garydl63 Guest

    Hey Steve
    Check out snowpanky on youtube. He gave me his idea and its BRILLIANT!.
  15. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Lights can be a pretty deep subject. There are two aspects to bicycle lighting, to be seen and to see. Just about anything will serve to be seen but seeing is another matter. Most bicycle lights on the market, are not made for the speeds a MB runs, you just can't see far enough down the road to avoid trouble. Added to that, the better systems are expensive, which is why I built from scratch. I started with lots of research and determined a AGM powered system was right for me and the MR16 - 20 watt 10 degree spot bulb gave the the most usable light per watt. I have no issues operating above 25 mph on a dark road, but doing so is an acquired taste.
  16. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Going batteryless...

    They're a little expensive, but a generator hub (among others, shimano and Sturmey-Archer make one) put out enough power to feed a maglite, and, they don't drag like a bottle generator does. If you're not pulling power, they don't drag at all... Another advantage of the hub-style generators is that they are completely enclosed; away from the elements and road gunk.

    I like the Sturmey-Archer, as it is a combination hub - with a brake and a generator.

    If you're using a bottle-type generator, the old fashioned schwinn types add a lot of drag to the bike. (They're horribly inefficient.) The German-made Busch & Muller Dymotec 'bottle' generators are much more efficient (at about 40%) and cause very little drag. They also use larger, replaceable rubber faced rollers, which won't wear your tire sidewall like the metal wheels of the old-style bottle generators.

    BTW. You can buy headlights & taillights designed for use with these type of generators; some have standlight capability. (They store up a charge while you're moving, then, when you stop, they release that stored charge to keeps the lights lit for a few minutes.

    Unfortunately, like all else, the good stuff's expensive. :roll:

    For side visibility, add a spoke magnet, and a pickup coil for each wheel. The output of the pickup coil (similar to a tach pickup) feeds an LED lamp. The LED flashes each time the wheel rotates. No (well, unmeasurable, anyway) drag, and no batteries. Reelight manufactures one of these pulsing lights. So does freelight

    Ref Bicycle Lighting Wiki
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2008
  17. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Great article loquin....thanks.
  18. garydl63

    garydl63 Guest

    Hi Guys
    I use two cateye el530 headlight next to each other on the handlebars AWSOME lighting,Use rechargable batteries and these run forever with bright light.
    Happy Motoring.......gary :)
  19. fredbert

    fredbert Guest

  20. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest


    In a word NO,it wouldn't be much good and that's because the LED's arn't focussed....the light would just splay out to the sides with very little depth of field.
    I've ordered a Sturmey Archer Bicycle Dyno Drum Brake with an output of 6volts/3 watts.With that i'm going to power this torch(flashlight) after i've customized it to look purpose-made as a bicycle light.The reason i'm using this torch is cos it's got 15 focussed LED's that give an amazingly powerful beam going forewards...infact u could even use it for a small motorbike headlight.
    For the rear any descent,multi,LED will work.