Army recumbent

Mxtlplck

New Member
Local time
2:03 PM
Joined
Jul 29, 2022
Messages
3
Cracks me up that there’s a group for recumbents. Got this guy 2 weeks ago as a non running project. She’s come a long way, just got exhaust all mounted tonight, just waiting on a drive chain and throttle and it’s finally complete. New member, looking forward to this forum. This is my second motorized bike, first was an old mountain bike that I sold.

For those interested:
-1/8” rubber pads (4) on each engine mount to reduce vibration
-straight pipe exhaust so I can shoot sick flames ;)
-will have a speedo/odo combo coming in soon
-bikeberry throttle to use my own grips
-custom wrapped seat I did myself
-Working 21 speed
-Performance carb and “high flow intake” (it’s just a normal intake lol, marketing ploys amir)
-will have a headlight, taillight, and rear turn signals controlled by a remote
-heat wrapping the entire exhaust tomorrow
-working on having either wood or metal foot pedals for cruising, as the pedals aren’t particularly comfortable while stationary

Probably missed several things out. Ask any questions you have.

The bike had welded pipes in place for the gas tank and engine. I did not do this. Previous owner had this functional and blew the motor, bought a new motor but I believe got bored hooking it up or couldn’t figure it out.
 

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Do you know how to shift a 3x7 drive system in a sequential non-redundant manner? You don't have 21 speeds what you have is 21 shifting combinations. Many of the ratios are redundant. A 3x7 gets shifted like this lowest to highest ratios: 1(1-4);2(2-5);3(4-7) for 12 sequential non-redundant ratios. If a gear is too easy or too hard to comfortably maintain a cadence (crank rpm) of 70-90 it means you're in the wrong gear. Take off gears are 1(1) for starts going up hill all other take offs use 2(2). Get a bicycle computer with a cadence meter on it.

I'm telling you this for when the day comes you have to pedal home.

I'd also suggest getting a tachometer so you'll be able to see which ratio is giving you the best pedal assist up steep hills.
 
My groin screamed "Hell NO!" when I saw that last pic w/the chain. Break that bad boy and you're not a happy camper.
 
Do you know how to shift a 3x7 drive system in a sequential non-redundant manner? You don't have 21 speeds what you have is 21 shifting combinations. Many of the ratios are redundant. A 3x7 gets shifted like this lowest to highest ratios: 1(1-4);2(2-5);3(4-7) for 12 sequential non-redundant ratios. If a gear is too easy or too hard to comfortably maintain a cadence (crank rpm) of 70-90 it means you're in the wrong gear. Take off gears are 1(1) for starts going up hill all other take offs use 2(2). Get a bicycle computer with a cadence meter on it.

I'm telling you this for when the day comes you have to pedal home.

I'd also suggest getting a tachometer so you'll be able to see which ratio is giving you the best pedal assist up steep hills.
I’m well aware of how bicycle gearing works.. worked in a bike shop for 3 years. They are simply called 21 speed bikes…? I don’t know why you felt the need to tell me that of all things, bicycle gearing is incredibly simple.
 
I’m well aware of how bicycle gearing works.. worked in a bike shop for 3 years. They are simply called 21 speed bikes…? I don’t know why you felt the need to tell me that of all things, bicycle gearing is incredibly simple.
For you and Jerry and some of us "Old Timers" here in the forums, bicycle gearing IS incredibly simple, but we get many members here that the only thing they know is how to jump on a bike and shift those gears without understanding how and why gearing just works...Like most people that drive cars, there is usually not too much mechanical knowledge of how things work, they just know how to put a seat belt on, turn a key to start the car, put it in drive and go...In most cases, thats all they want to know, they just want it to work.

I'm sure that in your bike shop days, you had many bike riders that were pretty much the same way also...lol..."It's broke, fix it for me, I look for things that make me go"...lol.

 
For you and Jerry and some of us "Old Timers" here in the forums, bicycle gearing IS incredibly simple, but we get many members here that the only thing they know is how to jump on a bike and shift those gears without understanding how and why gearing just works...Like most people that drive cars, there is usually not too much mechanical knowledge of how things work, they just know how to put a seat belt on, turn a key to start the car, put it in drive and go...In most cases, thats all they want to know, they just want it to work.

I'm sure that in your bike shop days, you had many bike riders that were pretty much the same way also...lol..."It's broke, fix it for me, I look for things that make me go"...lol.


Haha yea that makes sense. I’m the type to always want to know exactly how everything works, so that’s helped me stay handy in the garage. Still haven’t had to take my 90s truck into the shop, been able to do all the repairs by myself.
 
I’m well aware of how bicycle gearing works.. worked in a bike shop for 3 years. They are simply called 21 speed bikes…? I don’t know why you felt the need to tell me that of all things, bicycle gearing is incredibly simple.
I was on a pedal only forum for many years. You'd be surprised at how many people who don't know how to shift gears in a sequential non-redundant manner. Most of the regular contributors on that forum advised using Sheldon Brown's recommended shifting system. Yet even the late great Sheldon Brown had redundancies in his system. I came up with ways to eliminate those redundancies. I then started teaching the sequential non-redundant shifting systems for double and triple chainring cranks. The only time my method doesn't apply is if you have a half step double or half step granny triple chainring system.

I also have a color coding system that can be used on the shifters. My favorite thing to do is put both shifters next to one another so that you can do one handed shifting. Many bicycle shops don't like us MB'ers they feel engines or motors don't belong on bicycles. That's why here you'll learn many thing that simply aren't taught in bicycle shops.

On my triple chainring shifting bike I developed this shifting system lowest to highest ratios. The only time a front chainring is shifted is when in rear sprockets (3) or (5). The reduction range is 66.79:1 to 16.25:1.


Red Gears
1(1-3)
Steep hill climbing

Yellow Gears
2(3-5)
Around town general use

Green Gears
3(5-7)
Open road use.
 
Your bike looks ideal for putting a Strumey Archer fix gear 3 speed IGH on this could help to shorten your engine drive chain and give you 3 ratios to power your rear wheel
 
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