atombikes' 2007 Whizzer NE5

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by atombikes, Dec 14, 2013.

  1. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    I just bought this today for $380 (including a helmet). The seller could not find the key, but said her husband never had any issues with the Whizzer. So, I could not start it before I bought it. Seemed like a good deal so I bought it.

    Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch to test the engine? Like jump across the switch?

    Also, I noticed when I was spinning the engine (to make sure it wasn't seized) that there was this odd bumping/chunking kind of sound coming maybe from the engine? Not sure if this is normal or not?





  2. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    It looks nice & really good price. Looks like it has an auto clutch. Did you get a title? If you were at the Outer Banks you were near Quenton.
  3. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    Thanks. I thought it seemed like a good price, even though I'm going to have to do a lot of cleaning and corrosion removal. Is the Auto Clutch a good thing? The bike is from Maryland, but apparently the owners had a place down in Kitty Hawk and I assume (based on the rust/corrosion) that he must have cruised it there. I did get a title; it's plated and last registration was 2009.

    As I understand the sellers situation, he bought the bike and used it for a short while, then unfortunately slipped into some form of dimentia, which explains why his wife could not find the key. Forgot to mention in opening post that the odometer has 79 miles on it.
  4. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    I think the auto clutch & a title is great!
  5. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

  6. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    Here's a pic of the carb. I read somewhere that later model NE-5 had an aluminum spacer between the carb and engine, and that if the engine has the spacer chances are there are also some mods done internally in the engine that make it better/more reliable.

    Doesn't look like mine has the spacer.

    Anyone know if this is true? I understand the spacer will act as a thermal break.

  7. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    I got the Whizzer started today (finally). The idle seems high, and the carb is a little fuel starved. I got it up to 30mph on the flats.

    Here are two videos of this lovely flathead engine running.

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  8. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    The spacer you are talking about comes with the new cylinder kits that sell on ebay. I think the main reason for it is just to make the new carb (that you will need to buy, but is not mentioned) will fit the new setup. If you look up the kit on ebay sold by whizzerpaul you can send him a question or wait till Quenton sees this post and he will probably know something.
  9. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    I should also and that the spacer is needed for fitment of the carb when putting that new kit on the WC 1 motor.
  10. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    glad you got it running. it sounds good.
  11. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    Thanks, I really didn't know what to expect when it fired.
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
  12. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    So is the spacer only required when retrofitting a WC engine with an NE head? Seems the carb mounting stud spacing would have to be the same between the WC and NE in order to run the same carb, but why the need for the spacer then?
  13. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    I don't remember the exact details and don't have that motor anymore, but it was just a clearance issue. I still have a brand new wiring harness with all the components, cdi, igntion, keys, voltage reg. if your interested i'd let it go cheap.
  14. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    sent you a message
  15. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

  16. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Sorry for the delayed response, just been extremely busy during the holidays.

    I sent a response to your private message, and passed on as much information about the bike as possible.

    Nelson purchased the Whizzer from me, and shortly after he became ill, and couldn't ride it. The motor is 100% stock and will need several modifications to become durable.

    After looking at the pictures, it appears to be the version without the aluminum intake spacer and MUSHROOM lifters, and is your biggest problem. You must change lifters right away or serious damage can occur to the motor. You will also need to add an aluminum intake spacer to stop the gas from boiling in the carburetor. The spacer is needed to "cool" down the intake port and keep the carburetor below 110 degrees.

    Do not order the spacer from anyone as it never fits correctly! They seem to have a problem in Taiwan drilling the hole in the spacer, and it never lines up with the port. It is best to simply take a piece of aluminum and drill you own holes to match the intake port and mounting holes. You can use a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum and make it larger to catch the air [like an extra fin] and works well [and cheap too].

    Other issues you should consider are the cylinder & head. Some models used the "Lake Tahoe" head [meaning the cumbustion chamber looks like someone was drinking during the design process and looks like a run away lake]. The "Lake Tahoe" head is by far the worst of the heads used on the motors, and will reduce your top end by at least 5 MPH. This head can be modified to work well, but will need to be milled .065" and the chamber re-worked [valve pockets must be milled round as possible].

    The cylinder is way too brittle and the head bolt threads will continue to loosen, and "shear". Cylinder must be annealed to soften the aluminum. Bake in oven for 3 hours @ 350 degrees. All valve parts must be removed prior to baking cylinder.

    You also need to look at the valve springs, as some are stock WC-1, some are one of each, some are installed wrong, and less than 20% are installed correctly. If they are progressive springs [wound tighter at one end] the tight end goes against the valve guide [often one is installed on way and the other opposite].

    I always deck the cylinder as you will see deep tool marks in the mating surface, and can cause head gasket failure. If it doesn't have a copper head gasket, it needs one. You should try to find a copper gasket that will fit your head pattern as close as possible as it can and will effect performance. Gasket currently offered from Taiwan are a very poor match, and I don't personally use them. Might try Woodstock Whizzer Works in Woodstock, IL for the copper head gasket [not one he purchased from Taiwan, but from US source]. I am only recommending the head gasket from him, not any other items, as you don't need the majority of his inventory to make your Whizzer work correctly.

    An additional note concerning the mushroom lifters. Be VERY careful as the majority of available mushroom lifters are not made correctly [wrong metal]. Also the OEM mushroom lifters used in the later Whizzers can be upgraded [about $25.00 additional cost]to work , but never as well as the American made versions. The OEM versions aren't level at the base and are way too heavy, but can be corrected.

    No need to change the 22 MM carburetor, just the main jet. You will need an #80 on a stock NE motor. An #82 if head modified, and an #84 if cylinder ported by me.

    You will also need to address the crankcase oil vent system. If you need additional information on the vent design, PM me and I will tell you how to make your oil system from parts easily obtained in your area.

    The automatic clutch is another issue, however I recommend you get the motor correct and durable, and then contact me about the clutch issues.

    Hope this helps!
  17. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    Quenton I had to laugh reading that post because I've had to do all that stuff to my bike & other people's bikes (or get you to do it) over the years. It's true atom but once it's done they run fast & reliable for years. My 99 hits 50mph.
  18. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    I've always been impressed with Quenton's thorough knowledge of Whizzers and their various parts.

    Now he shows up with some pertinent knowledge of this particular Whizzer. I guess wonders never do cease, huh?

    In any case, I'm glad you got your bike running and have the info at your disposal to improve it. Looks like it's gonna be a good buy.
  19. atombikes

    atombikes Member

    OK, so I had a little free time so I took the side cover off to expose the cam, and subsequently the lifters.

    From the look of the cam position, I *think* the cam has already been advanced one tooth. Anyone disagree or have comments?


    The cam stayed in the engine when I took the side cover off. I got lucky I think.

    Anyway, on to the lifters. Bummer, they're not mushroom lifters. Good news is I don't think there is any damage to the cam (or the lifters from what I can tell)...

    This is pretty much the best pic I can get of the cam lobe, but it seems smooth to the touch:


    Attached Files:

  20. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Camshaft is advanced one tooth [many early NE motors were shipped with the camshaft advanced correctly]. Camshaft lobes look normal [good]. Camshaft is NE version.

    If the lobes aren't damaged it simply means the lifters were softened to delay the failure. If you inspect the lifters closely you will notice the have been heated and you will be able to see where they were torched. Softening the lifters saves the camshaft lobes, however the lifters will soon destruct. Not sure why, but the exhaust lifter almost always wears out first, and it is important to avoid finger contact with the base [it can cut you like a razor blade].

    This issue can lead to serious motor damage, and a lot of time trying to figure out why the motor appears to run worse with mileage. As the lifters wear, the clearance increases, and then the motor becomes hard to start, losses power, and is just weaker. The lifter clearance can be reset, and as the lifters wear more the problem returns. In extreme cases, the metal from the exhaust lifter falls into the camshaft bearing, locks it up, and BINGO, ya need a new motor [it can bust the crankcase, and or spin the bearing in the case].

    The solution is simple, just get a good set of mushroom lifters. Please note I mentioned a "good" set. In my opinion, the lifters offered from Taiwan are far from a rating of "good", as they are too heavy, bases are seldom level, and they are too soft. They can be made to work well, however it requires machine work. They must be center drilled to reduce weight. The base must be ground level [not cut with a tool bit]. The mushroom must be reduced in height because of weight and can contact lifter bosses in some crankcases.

    Please be careful when purchasing mushroom lifters, as some are really bad [lifter O.D. under-size, too long, too short, wrong base metal, ultra soft, etc].

    Lifters should be made from Chromeoly or hardened steel. Some exotic metals don't survive and make poor lifters[magnesium., titanium, etc]. Remember the lifters must run in an aluminum crankcase, and some metals don't do well against aluminum.

    The correct setup is hard mushroom lifters and the camshaft lobes not as hard.

    Now the big question! Just how long can your run the motor with softened lifters? Some have defected in less than 15 miles because the lifters seized in the lifter bores, while others have lasted for a couple hundred miles [depends on how the lifters were torched, and how long]. It think most are in trouble in less than 100 miles.

    Hope this information is helpful.

    Have fun,