Axle Tugs

[Arty]

I recently switched over my wheel hubs to sealed bearing type, intending to switch them over from quick-release to solid axle for reliability. What I didn't realize is that the sealed bearing type of hubs I bought had shouldered axles drilled for quick release skewers, foiling my plans to simply replace the quick-release with conventional axles.
As expected, the rear wheel wouldn't hold true in the drop-outs because the quick release mechanism simply wouldn't squeeze the axle in tightly enough.
To solve the problem, I fabricated my own axle tugs, since over the counter tugs only pull the axle back, which is fine for acceleration, since the chain wants to pull the wheel forward, but for brake force, the wheel wnats to move backwards out of the horizontal drop-outs on my frame.
The tugs were fairly easy to fabricate using some mild steel, but did require welding, grinding, drilling, tapping etc.. I machined a 5mm slot in the tugs for a 5mm bolt to slide in for wheel adjustment in the drop-outs, and drilled a few 3/16 holes for the quick-release skewers to allow for wheelbase adjustment if and when necessary.
It only required drilling and tapping one hole in each drop-out for securing the tugs to the bike.
Now my wheel stays true in the frame pretty much no matter what, and it's really nice when you do want to remove the wheel, because you can put it back in the frame in the exact same position it was in without adjustment, by just sliding the skewers back into the same holes in the tugs that they came from.
The drive-side tug took a bit more fabrication, because on my bike it also has to incorporate the mount for the derailleur.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I recently switched over my wheel hubs to sealed bearing type, intending to switch them over from quick-release to solid axle for reliability. What I didn't realize is that the sealed bearing type of hubs I bought had shouldered axles drilled for quick release skewers, foiling my plans to simply replace the quick-release with conventional axles.
As expected, the rear wheel wouldn't hold true in the drop-outs because the quick release mechanism simply wouldn't squeeze the axle in tightly enough.
To solve the problem, I fabricated my own axle tugs, since over the counter tugs only pull the axle back, which is fine for acceleration, since the chain wants to pull the wheel forward, but for brake force, the wheel wnats to move backwards out of the horizontal drop-outs on my frame.
The tugs were fairly easy to fabricate using some mild steel, but did require welding, grinding, drilling, tapping etc.. I machined a 5mm slot in the tugs for a 5mm bolt to slide in for wheel adjustment in the drop-outs, and drilled a few 3/16 holes for the quick-release skewers to allow for wheelbase adjustment if and when necessary.
It only required drilling and tapping one hole in each drop-out for securing the tugs to the bike.
Now my wheel stays true in the frame pretty much no matter what, and it's really nice when you do want to remove the wheel, because you can put it back in the frame in the exact same position it was in without adjustment, by just sliding the skewers back into the same holes in the tugs that they came from.
The drive-side tug took a bit more fabrication, because on my bike it also has to incorporate the mount for the derailleur.

I'm sure this is another reason why many frames with rear facing slotted dropouts have the caliper mount on the chainstay.
You could also get some Allen key skewers, although you already solved the problem there's nothing wrong with a bit of overkill.

 

[Timbone]

I like you fabrication: simple and effective. Looks very good. Technically, I would describe those as "axle locks" - very much like motorcycles have. I think a "chain tug" or "axle tug" implies a similar device, but one that allows for constant adjustment i. e. a kind of threaded stud that loops around the axle and either pushes or pulls it into place.

Again, it looks great!

I much prefer solid axles for safety - the bigger the better.

Ride safe!

 

[Arty]

I'm sure this is another reason why many frames with rear facing slotted dropouts have the caliper mount on the chainstay.
You could also get some Allen key skewers, although you already solved the problem there's nothing wrong with a bit of overkill.

Furry:
Thanks for the tip!! I didn't know about Allen Key Skewers until now. I intend to order some right away. When it comes to my wheels, overkill is just fine for me.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Furry:
Thanks for the tip!! I didn't know about Allen Key Skewers until now. I intend to order some right away. When it comes to my wheels, overkill is just fine for me.

Cool. When you get them you'll notice they nonsensically have alloy nuts (I still haven't found any with steel nuts, even the more expensive Halo ones I have) so just use the nuts from your quality QR skewers with steel threads to get maximum tension.

 

[Arty]

Furry:
Funny you should mention it. When I was searching, I too was concerned about the same thing, so i ordered a set of "Rock Bros." skewers, that look like they have stainless nuts. - If they don't, I'll definitely replace the nuts with something worthwhile. - Again - thanks for the tip.