Back by popular demand

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Quenton Guenther, Oct 29, 2008.

  1. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Almost every day someone contacts me about oil flowing from the motor at an alarming rate. Once Whizzer converted to the automatic clutch, and now the CVT drive the motor revs much higher than the original slip clutch. When the motor is reved higher the crankcase pressure increases and finds the path of least rersistance [the oil vent/breather hose]. After years of research and testing I arrived at a easy [cheap] fix. Of course my system was copied, but as usual a few changes were made to improve it [not]so that credit would be claimed by others. I will include a response I just sent to a new owner needing help, but will remove his name so that he doesn't get into trouble with warranty issues.

    Hi XXXX, I will gladly help you get your new Whizzer "back on the road". I don't make the breather for sale, but will tell you how to make your own from parts purchased at your local hardware, auto parts, & discount store [dollar store]. The object it to separate the oil and the air. First the problem and what causes it. Once the oil is purging from the motor it can continue until the motor's crankcase is empty. The reason this takes place is because of bad design, and the company is in denial. I made them aware of this problem as early as 2004, but they insisted I was the only one with the problem. Although the crankcase pressure will drop after the motor is "broke-in", it never drops enough to use the stock breather system. The breather can be made from many different materials, but the most common is PVC pipe, pot scrubber material, and a PCV valve. The pipe needs to be at least 3 1/2" long [most make it 4" long], and 1" O.D., close one end of the pipe [glue on a cap], drill the closed end to allow a small length of 3/8" pipe to be attached [either threaded or glued]. Next fill the pipe with a wire mesh type material [pot scrubber without soap] that can be purchased at a local Dollar store [K-Mart, Walmart, etc], then affix a PCV valve in the top [can be purchased at any auto parts store], either using a rubber grommet, a cap glued or screwed on the pipe with a hole for the PCV valve. The PVC valve must be attached to the frame tube behind the motor, and the valve must be headed towards the top so that it is normally closed. I will attach several pictures to help. If the oil ever starts flowing again, a simple cleaning of the mesh material will stop it [so design it so the top can be removed easily]. Next run the hose from the tappet cover to the bottom of the new breather assembly, cut off excess and attach to the breather.
    I have supplied this information to many and ALL report 100% success after making and installing this system.
    If anyone needs more information or pictures, simply contact me at

    Have fun,

  2. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

    Yes Lee I am very grateful for your help. This did fixed mine and while I was at it I did your O-ring fix for the compression release oil leak too. I am very grateful to have found you. I just hope you don't get burnt out on your hobby of building and playing with Whizzers and motorized bikes in general.

    I just can't understand why Whizzer collectively will not listen to you or anyone it would seem. They have a cool retro product and great people working for them. Their warranty support has been great. I just don't understand their current direction with their product line.

    Your help has nearly single handily breathed life back into otherwise unusable bikes.

    My hat goes off to you! The amount of time you spend helping others is amazing and makes you a very valuable asset to the motorized bike community.

    Thank you and please keep up the great work
  3. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    I'm fortunate to have not had the breather problem, but Quenton helped me with an issue on my bike that would have resulted in some expensive engine repairs if it hadn't been addressed before long. I don't mean to steer this off-topic, but I speak of the mushroom lifters he designed (but Whizzer poorly copied). The original lifters were becoming hammered at one end, and mushrooming out on their own with slivers about to break off. That was at only 300 miles. A set of mushroom lifters that had Quenton's magic applied to them solved the problem. Quenton has helped many of us get our bikes running properly and reliably.
  4. sk8erpunk

    sk8erpunk Member

    Can Quenton or someone else post pictures of this fix here? It sounds super easy, but pics would help!!!
  5. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    the fix

    Here's how I made it and it works. Hope the pics help . Quenton has helped me more than I can ever tell !! If he suggests it, I do it.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 29, 2008
  6. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

    oops broken links

    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 29, 2008
  7. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

  8. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

    Yup me too possibly flikr is having issues. If they dont work I will post again tomarow night.

    Attention mods: Can any of the mods please turn on my image tool?

    code is Off[/B]

  9. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

  10. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

  11. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

    Thanks for the explanation.

    How about a sticky for this oil leak fix?


    I also figured out why the links were broken. They can't be cut and pasted or otherwise moved because the thread is dynamically linked to the abbreviated hyper link that the link tool creates within the post. So I have to relink it if I want to put it in another post.
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 30, 2008
  12. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    Great idea. It's now a sticky.
  13. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    Adding my gratitude

    I would also like to add my gratitude to Quenton with all the tips he has given me directly as well as to the wealth of info he has posted in here.

    Also thank you to everyone who has been so helpful, I would never have gotten this far on my own.

    You will all be on my shoulders as I whisk along when it is finally running (soon I hope)

    Wayne Bertrand
    Vancouver, Canada
  14. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Latest Oil breather upgrade..........

    After many requests, I re-designed the breather from easier to aquire parts.

    This post will explain the changes and upgrades.

    Still need the following parts....
    1. #2-9220 PVC valve [can use #2-9210 also]
    2. Pot scrubber from Dollar Store [package of 3, cut one in half]
    3. Three heavy duty plastic ties [don't get cheap ties!].
    4. Plastic elbo made for Toro [purdhase at Ace Hardware].
    5. 10" piece of 3/8" fuel line [can use vacumm hose if fuel line not available]
    6. 6" metal tube 7/8 I.D. [can use rubber hose, but must be oil and gas resistant]

    Because of 10 yeas of contnued requests I made several hundred and sold at what they cost me to make, and 99% are gone [I only kept a small amount for long term testing]. The pictures are from this production run and will make it easier to see how easy they are to make.

    The parts should cost less than $25.00, and about 5 min. to assemble.

    Have fun,

    Attached Files:

  15. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

  16. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Jay,

    Did you notice I even included the actual part numbers in the post, hopefully the thousands of Whizzer owners with oil problems will be able to find the parts locally and fix the problem easily.

    I am and have been very concerned about this problem for many years, and know how dangerous it can be to have oil all over the rear tire. Hopefully many will take the time to make their Whizzers safer, and save some money on oil at the same time. Have you seen the price of a quart of oil lately?

    Have fun,
  17. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    Yeah, that's nice. Anyone can now fix their breather problem.