Exhaust Banana chamber

Ok after putting the old exhaust on, had to double the exhaust gasket to get a good seal.

Gapped the plug back to .030 as mentioned earlier (yes, again today), wouldn't even bother trying to start unless I was going at least 10mph. Seems like the smaller the gap I get, the easier it starts, runs for a second and stalls itself out. Been playing with the needle settings, too, since I've hollowed out the stock air filter box (black nt punisher looking one).

Gonna pull the magneto in a sec, get pics of the magneto plate studs sticking out on the flat side and grind them f***ers flush to the plates. Been playing with this thing off and on all day today and I still have to go to work lol
 
you might try putting old mag back in

I'd put the stock mag back in, but, I noticed there's fraying on the contacts at the solder joints. I'll have to find my handy dandy portable solder iron and resolder fresh wires to the contacts to see if that may have been an issue from the start. And also find my multimeter to test everything.
 
I'd put the stock mag back in, but, I noticed there's fraying on the contacts at the solder joints. I'll have to find my handy dandy portable solder iron and resolder fresh wires to the contacts to see if that may have been an issue from the start. And also find my multimeter to test everything.
You may want to look at the ground wire from the stator coil where it's soldered to the frame it can cause an intermitant spark at high load but arc enough to start then quit.Those pins on the stator frame wont be an issue.
 
got a thread on here about a bad mag which had the rivets loose - it would start, then no spark (had to check quick to find no spark as it cooled fast & spark came back) - pressed the rivets so they were tight and problem was solved

seems it would arc a bit between the plates, then expand or carbon up or something like that - once rivets were tight enough to make good ground, all was well
 
got a thread on here about a bad mag which had the rivets loose - it would start, then no spark (had to check quick to find no spark as it cooled fast & spark came back) - pressed the rivets so they were tight and problem was solved

seems it would arc a bit between the plates, then expand or carbon up or something like that - once rivets were tight enough to make good ground, all was well

Joints on all contacts of the stater coil look fine, wires don't look frayed.

Pics are of the assembled coil, coil rivets and indents the rivets left in the retaining plate. Since you've ruled out the rivets and everything looks ok, I'm going to throw in the only other plug I have at the moment (B8HS) to try and rule that out again.
 

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So after playing with it all day yesterday, i have to play with the clutch adjustment, as that seems to be dragging now. It seems like it's just one thing after another with these things
 
2 things I haven't heard. resistance test of magneto, tried different cdi. If it seems to try a little better with undersized gap and won't try at all with proper gap it makes one suspect week spark. I'm still betting on the cdi.
 
Correct, it was the cdi. After doing all if that, I forgot to swap in the old cdi I had. Did that today and it fired right up. Rode in to work today. That oz magneto seems to be a beast.
 
Correct, it was the cdi. After doing all if that, I forgot to swap in the old cdi I had. Did that today and it fired right up. Rode in to work today. That oz magneto seems to be a beast.
mission accomplished. Give your daughter back her bike, a kiss and a hug. Happy riding.
 
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