Been commuting for 5 months now

Discussion in 'Travelling, Commuting & Safety' started by B.K. Hosken, Mar 13, 2009.

  1. B.K. Hosken

    B.K. Hosken Member

    I figured I would chime in. I've been riding my Rans Recumbent with a GX-35 Honda powered Staton friction drive to work and it's been great! I only drive 7 miles to and from work, so it's only 20 min by bike, 15 min by car.

    The GX-35 is not really powerful, so top speed is about 26-27mph. I have proven to myself that it's a realistic efficient way to get around, so I just ordered a new Staton friction drive with the Mitsubishi TLE-43, should give a top speed of 36-37. That's about as fast as I want to go on a bike...

  2. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Did you order a 1 1/2" roller? Without it, your top end will be limited to about 30.
  3. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    That's almost correct. AT 30mph, engine speed is 8300rpm. High up in the power curve, but The Mits engine still has enough oomph to go faster.

    I've been commuting on a 12-mile roundtrip to work four days weekly.

    I run both of my Mitsubishi engines to extreme rpm. Pushing over 300 pounds at 38mph, front engine with 1.375" roller is SCREAMING at 10,500rpm.
    Rear engine w/1.5" spindle is comfortable at 9600rpm with its ADA S1 expansion pipe.:jester:

    Front engine used to beg for mercy w/1.25" roller at 35mph (11,250rpm). :shout:

    Mind you, this WOT punishment is just for short intervals on a 2-mile stretch of highway. This is to keep up with traffic while commuting to work.

    At the end of that punishment, engines and I are all friends, humming along towards home at 25mph (6900rpm and 6300rpm).

    But then again it'd be more of a strain using one Mitsubishi engine.

    Staton states on his website that 40mph is possible with 1.5" roller and lightweight rider.

    That's at 10,300rpm.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 14, 2009
  4. B.K. Hosken

    B.K. Hosken Member

    Hmmm, I got the 1.375" roller.

    I figured I didn't want to go faster than 35-37mph, so I got the 1.375" roller. Maybe I shoudl get the 1.5" and just don't use all the GO that the motor has?
  5. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I guess just see how it goes with the 1.375". We're only talking about .125" difference, and power may still be a limiting factor. My friction setup is on a Trek mountain bike. Perhaps the better aerodynamics of the Rans will give you more top end.
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Run What You Got!

    :idea:The 1.3375 roller is a wise choice if you keep at 30mph or below.

    At that speed your engine will be ALIVE and peaked. But more important your low and midrange will be very strong. There is a HUGE difference in throttle response as compared to a 1.5" spindle.

    I replaced my 1.125" roller with a 1.5" spindle on "The Dragon Lady" when it had one engine. It changed the bike's personality into a very mellow cruiser.

    With a 1.5" roller it's like a highway gear. Offthrottle response is sluggish; midrange shows promise, topend flies. The engine never screams or protests. It just hums along.

    You need to pedal with 1.5" at low speed. If you can pedal in midrange and high end, the 1.5" is a great option for commuting on flat ground.

    FWIW, "The Dragon Lady" and I weigh in at 300lbs. Aerodynamics is challenged with a full front basket and me using a raincoat.

    The friction roller on my front engine was changed very recently from 1.25" to 1.375". The low end and midrange power loss wasn't noticeable. High end was a bit less brutal for the engine, but rpms were still WAY over redline.

    The front engine SCREAMS for mercy at 38mph; at that speed the rear engine is past redline but still pushing the bike.

    I ordered the 1.5" roller for the front engine. Both engines will now have the same spindle. They should produce good low end/midrange and awesome top end...

    especially when the two engines will have expansion pipes(exhaust).:devilish:

    In 30 minutes I will be commuting six miles to work.

    It's like a 25-minute amusement ride! Thoroughly enjoyable, even if it rains.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 17, 2009
  7. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

  8. B.K. Hosken

    B.K. Hosken Member

    Just received the STaton Mitsu TLE43 kit, will hopefully put it on tomorrow...more POWER ARH ARH ARH.
  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    You'll like the Mitsubishi engine. It's relatively quiet, docile, reliable and powerful.

    With the 1.375" roller, it'd be a nice comparison to a Chevy 327 engine with 4.11 gears.:)
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 21, 2009
  10. B.K. Hosken

    B.K. Hosken Member

    Well, I got it on the bike. It's got a bit more power but I expected a LOT more. It's quieter than the 4 cycle Honda GX35, though Anyway, I'm hoping it needs to break in a bit before it has all the power it should, but I'm running it on a recumbent bike and I'm 225 pounds, and right now it's topping out at 30mph. I'm not impressed so far. I expected 35-37mph.
  11. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    You've got a limited amount of power, at a certain maxmun rpm. It is what it is. With a 1.5" roller, you would be getting an extra .125" per rpm. 30 mph is about the most that's legal. There are ways to go faster....
  12. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    With a 1.375" roller, at 37mph your engine would be spinning at 10,359rpm.

    That's WAY past the Mits engine's redline.

    At 8900rpm peak, speed of 32.2mph is possible under optimum conditions and low rider weight.

    With a 1.5" roller, at 37mph your engine would be spinning at 9500rpm.

    At 8900rpm peak, speed of 35.1mph is possible under optimum conditions and low rider weight.
  13. B.K. Hosken

    B.K. Hosken Member

    Well here's my gripe. I had a 1.0 hp motor with a 1.125" roller, that would push me along at 26-27mph. I bought a 2.2hp motor with a 1.375" roller, and the best it can do is 29-30mph? Double the HP and a bigger roller, and that's it? 3 or 4 mph faster?
  14. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    What you failed to mention was how much quicker the Mits engine pushed you to 29-30mph.

    I imagine a lot quicker, especially mid and top end.

    :idea:You could try the 1.5" roller, lose some torque and gain top end.

    :idea:A fairing would also help top end.
  15. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I Got Me A GREAT Idea!

    I commuted to work today.

    On the way home there's a stretch of highway that ALWAYS causes me great stress and anxiety, because I ride in rush-hour traffic. I was polite enough to allow the bus to cut safely in front of me. At the next traffic light I let that same bus merge in front of me. That meant that I had to follow a vehicle that was traveling the speed limit or less.(I had to make sure not to ride on his water trail from A/C drippings).

    It was calm and relaxing to follow the bus at a safe distance.

    I just realized why no one wanted to cut in front of me.

    :idea:NOBODY wants to follow a slow-moving bus!!!

    It seemed like a very safe place to claim the curb lane and keep up with...

    the slow-moving bus.

    One day I might follow it all the way into town.:grin5:
  16. B.K. Hosken

    B.K. Hosken Member

    Not too much faster...

    It's slightly faster than the Honda, but not much. It takes the mitsu about as long to get to speed as the honda, just a little higher top end. However, over the last 2 days or so it has perked up a little so maybe it does need slight breaking in. I've only been riding it to work for 3 days, that's a 14 mile round trip. That means it's got about 30-40 miles on it. After it has 100 or so, then I will pass judgement.
  17. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    It might be wise not to push your Mits engine too hard during break-in.

    You can tell when it's broke in when it becomes easier to pull the recoil start(less internal friction).

    I could feel the difference when I upgraded from 1.6hp Subaru w/1.125" spindle to 2.2hp Mitsubishi w/1.125" roller.

    There was a huge difference when I swapped to a 1.5" roller. Less low end but awesome top end.
  18. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    just be sure you're VERY observable, people coming into traffic from side streets or even that have been following you for blocks could make a mess of you against the back of the bus !!

  19. duivendyk

    duivendyk Guest

    The difference of 'only' .125" ,from 1.375 to 1.50" is in fact a change in transmission ratio of 9.1% not large, but not insubstantial either.
  20. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    At one time I had a 1.25" roller up front and a Staton 18.75 gear-chaindrive on "The Dragon Lady". I'd start off on the rear engine alone. At the top of the low end I'd release its throttle and stomp on the front engine's throttle.

    It sounded just like the engine shifted gears!:grin5: