best 2 stroke spark plug?

[cristisonntag]

Hello.I just bought a new Chinagirl 2 stroke 80cc(actually a 66 cc) and i read that the spark plugs are a problem.
I will buy the best oil to mix with the fuel...so 32:1 for break in and 40:1 after break in ratios are good?I want it to be very reliable since i will ride it like 130 km a day.i know...i know i have to give it breaks and not run it more than 30 min at a time.
Before i will put it on the bike i will disassemble it to the bone:ALL the bearings greased and metal on metal parts,loctite with tons.The piston and crankshatft bearing will be lubed with 10w40 oil semisynthetic motorcycle oil.i will even break the clutch apart with those litle 1/8 inch little bearing and slightly grease them(so grease won t drip on fricion plates over time.
An other thing i saw on yt is that some gears come installed crooked so if mine will be i will straight them up on reasseble.
i don t want performance...only reliability
please be kind and tell me what spark plug is the best.i will be only between 50-90 m above sea level.
about the carburaetor...so after break in it s ok to rejet it to 58?
another thing...i am a big guy(90kg)with steel bike and glovo bag...so i was thinking so slightly tighthen the big spring in the clutch assembly to prevent slipping...would it be ok?or would it break those chineese parts?
thank you in advance
HAPPY HOLLYDAYS!!!

 

[mark20]

Hello.I just bought a new Chinagirl 2 stroke 80cc(actually a 66 cc) and i read that the spark plugs are a problem.
I will buy the best oil to mix with the fuel...so 32:1 for break in and 40:1 after break in ratios are good?I want it to be very reliable since i will ride it like 130 km a day.i know...i know i have to give it breaks and not run it more than 30 min at a time.
Before i will put it on the bike i will disassemble it to the bone:ALL the bearings greased and metal on metal parts,loctite with tons.The piston and crankshatft bearing will be lubed with 10w40 oil semisynthetic motorcycle oil.i will even break the clutch apart with those litle 1/8 inch little bearing and slightly grease them(so grease won t drip on fricion plates over time.
An other thing i saw on yt is that some gears come installed crooked so if mine will be i will straight them up on reasseble.
i don t want performance...only reliability
please be kind and tell me what spark plug is the best.i will be only between 50-90 m above sea level.
about the carburaetor...so after break in it s ok to rejet it to 58?
another thing...i am a big guy(90kg)with steel bike and glovo bag...so i was thinking so slightly tighthen the big spring in the clutch assembly to prevent slipping...would it be ok?or would it break those chineese parts?
thank you in advance
HAPPY HOLLYDAYS!!!

the best sparkplug in my opinion is the NGK B6HS. ive never had a problem with them,

some people run these engines at 50:1 but id stay at 32:1 for best results (then agian i use cheap cheap marine 2 cycle oil oil found here)

(my previous bike had around 200hrs and around 3000miles on it, sold to a classmate, said he sold it in November to a guy with a ranch, so now it probably has close to 5000miles now)


for the clutch id take a read at post number 2
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/important-clutch-adjustment-required-for-maximum-grip.55933/

 

[cristisonntag]

the best sparkplug in my opinion is the NGK B6HS. ive never had a problem with them,

some people run these engines at 50:1 but id stay at 32:1 for best results (then agian i use cheap cheap marine 2 cycle oil oil found here)

(my previous bike had around 200hrs and around 3000miles on it, sold to a classmate, said he sold it in November to a guy with a ranch, so now it probably has close to 5000miles now)


for the clutch id take a read at post number 2
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/important-clutch-adjustment-required-for-maximum-grip.55933/

thank you for the spark plug advice.the clutch was contaminated in the link you gave me....similarly with disc brakes cases

 

[Frogslayer]

Why can't you run more than thirty minutes at a time? 58 is going to be way too lean of a jet. Why the "semi synthetic motorcycle oil"? Use assembly lube. You could also use 2 stroke oil. "Motorcycle oil" just lacks friction modifiers for the wet clutch. How are you going to true up the crooked gears?

 

[cristisonntag]

Why can't you run more than thirty minutes at a time? 58 is going to be way too lean of a jet. Why the "semi synthetic motorcycle oil"? Use assembly lube. You could also use 2 stroke oil. "Motorcycle oil" just lacks friction modifiers for the wet clutch. How are you going to true up the crooked gears?

welll...everyone says to run it max 30 min...i guess it s too much stress for chineese metal.
i dont have assembly oil.but better than running dry until vapor with lube comes in.
i am gonna true the gears by pulling them out and installing them,rotate them a little,see if they are straight and then screw the nuts or bolts
thank you for the jet advice

 

[mark20]

welll...everyone says to run it max 30 min...i guess it s too much stress for chineese metal.
i dont have assembly oil.but better than running dry until vapor with lube comes in.
i am gonna true the gears by pulling them out and installing them,rotate them a little,see if they are straight and then screw the nuts or bolts
thank you for the jet advice

ive ran mine for about 2hrs straight before with no problems (it was hot but not overheating)

if your doing 80miles a day (im assuming round trip)
then id get a "performance" head (most actually lower the compression, but they make the engine run a lot cooler)

also, for jetting id start with 68 and then test and tune to see what works (for me that was perfect)

and finally, get yourself a bigger gas tank, these ones only hold .3 gallons (that from empty to nearly overflowing)

this one holds a gallon of fuel (its better to have a bit too much then too little)

big fuel tank

 

[cristisonntag]

ive ran mine for about 2hrs straight before with no problems (it was hot but not overheating)

if your doing 80miles a day (im assuming round trip)
then id get a "performance" head (most actually lower the compression, but they make the engine run a lot cooler)

also, for jetting id start with 68 and then test and tune to see what works (for me that was perfect)

and finally, get yourself a bigger gas tank, these ones only hold .3 gallons (that from empty to nearly overflowing)

this one holds a gallon of fuel (its better to have a bit too much then too little)

big fuel tank

thank you

 

[RB55]

I've ran my bike for 3 hours 30 minutes straight at full throttle with everything stock with no issues. I even took apart the engine afterward to check and everything was fine. The whole "cool down/don't ride over 30 minutes" is bullcrap. A NGK B6 or B5 HS will work fine, but be sure to bring along some extras because you will eventually foul the plug and have to pedal back home (happened to me, it's not fun...). Also bring along a spare inner tube and some basic tools so you won't get caught in a rut if you ride every day. I recommend a 3 liter gas tank from eBay (only $25) because the stock tank is a thin piece of junk that doesn't seal right and will eventually leak...its actual capacity is only 1.5 liters while I was able to get 3/4 gallon into the 3L tank easily. Especially if you're riding 130km a day, you will really need that extra gas...remember you can't just fill up at a gas station without 2 stroke oil! Replace the exhaust gasket with a good quality one or use some exhaust gasket maker because it will give out after a couple hours of riding and start spewing hot 2 stroke oil onto your leg...not good. I also loctite the exhaust bolts with blue threadlock as the vibration makes them come out eventually. Pick up some good quality 3/16 inch fuel line as the stock line will shrivel up and crack pretty fast. I recommend rejetting the carburetor at 0.66mm. If you're riding every day for a while a high compression head with properly torqued head bolts (12 ft-lbs) will be an excellent add on to increase lower-end power and cool your engine well. The stock head that came with mine almost flew off since half the head bolts were not tightened at all...watch out for that. A 40T or 38T rear sprocket and an upgraded 415H chain will keep your RPMs down to a good level (6000-6500). With the stock 44T you'll be constantly running the engine at a high RPM which will significantly reduce its lifespan in the long run. Get some good lights for your bike so you'll be visible at night or in poor weather conditions. Run some good quality synthetic oil at 32:1 or higher or you will get nasty carbon buildup very fast. After 200 miles with fossil oil my entire engine was black inside lol. Lastly you can upgrade your clutch pads to the black ones to get better grip but even if you don't you need to do two things to make the clutch work properly: increase the clutch preload and adjust the flower nut. Increasing preload is simple: remove the bolt assembly that guides the clutch wire on the left side of the engine and jam a flat head screwdriver into the hole. Then spin the back wheel backwards very slowly until it becomes very hard/impossible to turn. You will feel your clutch handle get stiffer and your clutch grab more. Lastly take off the clutch cover (right side), get a flat head screwdriver and use a hammer to tighten it up really well.

Good luck!

 

[cristisonntag]

I've ran my bike for 3 hours 30 minutes straight at full throttle with everything stock with no issues. I even took apart the engine afterward to check and everything was fine. The whole "cool down/don't ride over 30 minutes" is bullcrap. A NGK B6 or B5 HS will work fine, but be sure to bring along some extras because you will eventually foul the plug and have to pedal back home (happened to me, it's not fun...). Also bring along a spare inner tube and some basic tools so you won't get caught in a rut if you ride every day. I recommend a 3 liter gas tank from eBay (only $25) because the stock tank is a thin piece of junk that doesn't seal right and will eventually leak...its actual capacity is only 1.5 liters while I was able to get 3/4 gallon into the 3L tank easily. Especially if you're riding 130km a day, you will really need that extra gas...remember you can't just fill up at a gas station without 2 stroke oil! Replace the exhaust gasket with a good quality one or use some exhaust gasket maker because it will give out after a couple hours of riding and start spewing hot 2 stroke oil onto your leg...not good. I also loctite the exhaust bolts with blue threadlock as the vibration makes them come out eventually. Pick up some good quality 3/16 inch fuel line as the stock line will shrivel up and crack pretty fast. I recommend rejetting the carburetor at 0.66mm. If you're riding every day for a while a high compression head with properly torqued head bolts (12 ft-lbs) will be an excellent add on to increase lower-end power and cool your engine well. The stock head that came with mine almost flew off since half the head bolts were not tightened at all...watch out for that. A 40T or 38T rear sprocket and an upgraded 415H chain will keep your RPMs down to a good level (6000-6500). With the stock 44T you'll be constantly running the engine at a high RPM which will significantly reduce its lifespan in the long run. Get some good lights for your bike so you'll be visible at night or in poor weather conditions. Run some good quality synthetic oil at 32:1 or higher or you will get nasty carbon buildup very fast. After 200 miles with fossil oil my entire engine was black inside lol. Lastly you can upgrade your clutch pads to the black ones to get better grip but even if you don't you need to do two things to make the clutch work properly: increase the clutch preload and adjust the flower nut. Increasing preload is simple: remove the bolt assembly that guides the clutch wire on the left side of the engine and jam a flat head screwdriver into the hole. Then spin the back wheel backwards very slowly until it becomes very hard/impossible to turn. You will feel your clutch handle get stiffer and your clutch grab more. Lastly take off the clutch cover (right side), get a flat head screwdriver and use a hammer to tighten it up really well.

Good luck!

thank you a lot,my friend