Best bang for my buck? --long read--

[LewieBike]

Have not a clue what you mean by conversion being very costly...the mags, including disks, and calipers cost me 119.00 on sale from bikeberry 2 months ago when i did the conversion...it stops on a dime now and leaves 9 cents change...there is also no brake chatter or noise...only had to make my own rear disk caliper adaptor from aviation aluminum, (7075 T6 Aluminum) and use an "Adel" Clamp for the front caliper as bike was not built with calipers in mind...pics are below...DAMIEN

You're right.

The frame he's planning on disc brake installing has no mounting tangs for the calipers. It's also really flimsy steel with not great welding quality.

And those wheels you bought back in whenever are now going for close to $ 180~200+...? I would trust those mag wheels as far as I could throw them, they have rather spotty bearing quality and everyone who uses them converts them over to sealed cartridge bearings. There goes another hundred dollars or more.

You'll need a special axle for the sealed bearings.

Does he have the skills and ability to make his own disc caliper mounts?

A new fork how much are they now? This all starts to add up. This isn't best bang for buck anymore.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

And those wheels you bought back in whenever are now going for close to $ 180~200+...? I would trust those mag wheels as far as I could throw them, they have rather spotty bearing quality and everyone who uses them converts them over to sealed cartridge bearings. There goes another hundred dollars or more.

They came with sealed cartridge bearings...They do not cost 180 to 200...i bought them 2 months ago...regular price is 149.00...They always go on sale during holidays...next sale will be memorial day.

Dont be such a negative nancy...I used to be an ASE certified master mechanic/tech and the small nitpicky "problems" your trying to pick on will only discourage people...The forum is here to be encourageing and helpful to newcomers doing their builds, not a negative environment to discourage them while the rest of us might think we are so superior.

We are here to help and guide others in the "sport"...Thats what team players do for each other...if one is not supportive, then one is just another part of the problem...DAMIEN

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

Now the idea is developing: It's not just the motor that has to be upgraded
but the bike itself: new shock absorbing fork with mounting points for a disk brake,
new heavier duty front wheel with thicker spokes and capable of mounting a
disk, heavier rear wheel with a disk brake, etc. With all this said I'm not sure
the frame itself could survive the forces applied, since the weight limit on
the whole bike is only 250 lbs. At the end of all these mods, I suspect the
cost of the whole project will exceed $1,000. Better to just start with a bike
that has more structural integrity, and equipped with shock absorption
and disk brakes. My opinion.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

since the weight limit on
the whole bike is only 250 lbs.

This weight restriction is the one thing i totally agree with though...The bike must be capable and rated for the weight it is expected to carry...DAMIEN

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

And the forces that are applied to it.

 

[Equillibrium]

I feel like you guys are imagining i'm riding this thing through a city or something although i've said i'm out in the country so let me paint a picture. From my house, the nearest intersection is 1.2 miles. From there the closest is 5 miles. What i'm most likely to hit is a deer. Luckily the 2 stroke is pretty loud. Next we can go back to the point i've made several times and state again that the only thing that's staying stock on this bike is the frame and seat. For now though, i got the zeda kit together and took it out for a test ride. Yes, with stock parts. I'm still alive. Don't worry. When i got the kit last night i carefully inspected everything. Slightly chamfered all edges on the head, removed a huge burr from the intake side. Tossed everything together and all went well. Installation after inspection only took like 2.5 hours. Way easier than the 4 strokes. The brakes did well even though i didnt need them to because i literally have a runway to stop. The kit did awesome and with the 36T it didnt even seem to notice me on it. May bring it back up to a 44+ after upgrading the bike itsself for safety because i'm not dumb and you dont need to tell me whats safe. At first i didnt have the clutch right. It wasnt engaging with the lever all the way out. A quick adjustment fixed that and it started and ran beautifully. I didnt bring a spedo because like i said, top speed isnt a priority until the bikes safe so i cant say how fast it is at the moment but i can say there's plenty of power to go around. Thanks for recommending the zeda 80. Once i get the bike up to specs and broken in, ill make a new post featuring it. Also a huge thanks to all the productive tips given here. I ordered that pipe mentioned in i think the third post. Cant wait to fit that. And for those of you trying to tell people their s**ts not safe, that's all fine and dandy but if someone says they know what their doing, back off man. Its not your place.

 

[Equillibrium]

Omg yall cracking me up with this upgrade the forks and get the best rims known to man... i'm staying firmly on the road, avoiding bumps and only going top speed on flat straight aways. Think im doing stunts while weaving through traffic at top speed? There's people on youtube on skinny rim schwinn racing bikes doing power wheelies. Go bother them. Lol

 

[furweider691]

Want some? I have a bin full.

I WISH I could find a good mechanic to help me figure out why my 4 stroke won't start. Frustrated me for two years now. Hate to just buy a whole new motor without knowing what went wrong, or it will just go wrong again.

Meanwhile I had real good luck with the two stroke that one replaced. SO built a second bike and went with two stroke.
Best site I found yet for stuff is https://www.bicycle-engines.com I bought my bike frame with the built in gas tank from them here, https://www.bicycle-engines.com/zed...zed-bicycle-built-in-gas-tank-gas-frame-bike/ Didn't like the mountain bike style handle bars though, swapped those out with a taller version I found on ebay. Also put on a wider seat. (Big girl that I am. Need lots of cushy for the tushy.)

And went with their zeda 100 motor kit here. https://www.bicycle-engines.com/new...ycle-engine-kit-80cc-100cc-firestorm-edition/ Now it's not tweaked out at all. Best advice from THEM was add things as you decide necessary. Since I'm not at all interested in high speed, this works fine for me as is. AND... you can actually see a ride I posted on youtube. Here, enjoy.

Is your bike really that silent , man what I would give to have a bike that stealth , mine sounds like a nest of angry hornets.

 

[Frogslayer]

Electric is the way to go as far as stealth is concerned. My wife's bike is a women's bayside with rear hub on it. It can go 27mph. It can't go 27mph comfortably and the factory brakes actually work well but the factory brake pads were garbage. I'm 100 pounds lighter than you but my 66cc on another even cheaper Walmart frame would hit 40mph with a 44 tooth if i balanced the crank for it. Right now it sings around 6k but gets angry above 8k. Im going to put a 36 sprocket on it not to go faster but just to cruise at lower rpms.

 

[mark20]

Here OP, ill explain it as basic as it's gonna get.

1. Get a decent old mountain bike with a V style frame (or male frame), a good brand such as diamondback or gaint.
get a steel frame if you can, V brakes work, disc is better.

2. get that kit i linked above.

3. get the bike serviced, (either you can do it, or have a bike shop do it), IMPORTANT: grease all bearings (hubs, headset, BB)

4. install the kit.

5. test ride.

6. see what ya want to change.

Done