Big Blue
Member
rust
you can use in rusty tank
you can use in rusty tank
best method for rust removal?
- Thread starter skipS
- Start date
H
HoughMade
Guest
I have used electrolysis on a rusty gas tank, on bycycle rims, on sheetmetal engine shrouds, etc. Works good.
One thing about using a battery charger. Some chargers have to sense a bit of voltage before they will charge as a safety mechanism so the leads are not energized when disconnected. Therefore, those chargers will not work unless you fool the charger into sensing voltage....which I have burned out a couple of dc power supplies doing.
One thing about using a battery charger. Some chargers have to sense a bit of voltage before they will charge as a safety mechanism so the leads are not energized when disconnected. Therefore, those chargers will not work unless you fool the charger into sensing voltage....which I have burned out a couple of dc power supplies doing.
biken stins
Member
Great idea. On rusty chrome parts does the chrome come off also ?
H
HoughMade
Guest
The chrome only comes off if the rust has already separated it from the underlying steel. If the chrome still has a good hold- no problem. Electrolysis only effects iron oxide.
F
fetor56
Guest
Well,my rusty tank is in the bathtub now with the sacrificial steel merrily bubbling away so we'll see how it goes by the end of the day.
bikebum1975
Member
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- Jul 25, 2008
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- 103
Depends how bad the rust is on the chrome but I've used never dull and it works really good especially on tarnished aluminum takes a lot of time but it gets it off I've never tried it but have been told fine steel wool and WD-40 works well too
MoonHog
Member
Electric rust removal is great for the inside of gas tanks. I usually use a bent coat hanger for the anode (make sure it isn't touching any metal on the tank that you are grounding with the battery charger). A packet of BBs works well too for that, but you need alot more elbow grease to shake the tank for an awful long time.
Media blasting is good too if you have the equipment, and don't mind the mess (unless you have a blasting cabinet that will fit a whole frame).
Naval Jelly or any other type of chemical rust removal could potentially remove more metal than you want. It's kind of a mess, and you have to clean the surfaces really well when you are finished or it will continue to eat away at the metal.
Then there is my favorite, time saver method. The angle grinder with the heave duty twisted steel brush attachment. That'll get a frame down to bare metal in a few minutes. Dont use it on a gas tank or other thin metal surface, as it may heat it up and warp it. Make sure you wear goggles. I can't tell you how many times I've pulled steel brush particles out of my eyes, or sat down somewhere, and had one that was stuck in my pants stick in my butt cheek...or other 'refinement'.
Media blasting is good too if you have the equipment, and don't mind the mess (unless you have a blasting cabinet that will fit a whole frame).
Naval Jelly or any other type of chemical rust removal could potentially remove more metal than you want. It's kind of a mess, and you have to clean the surfaces really well when you are finished or it will continue to eat away at the metal.
Then there is my favorite, time saver method. The angle grinder with the heave duty twisted steel brush attachment. That'll get a frame down to bare metal in a few minutes. Dont use it on a gas tank or other thin metal surface, as it may heat it up and warp it. Make sure you wear goggles. I can't tell you how many times I've pulled steel brush particles out of my eyes, or sat down somewhere, and had one that was stuck in my pants stick in my butt cheek...or other 'refinement'.
Last edited:
machiasmort
Active Member
Rust removal from chrome is best done with the finest steel wool you can find and W.D. 40. Don't be harder on the chrome surface than you have to be. Chrome will be scratched slightly by steel wool if you apply to much pressure! Most of the rust will come right off and wipe away with the WD residue! Safer than harsh chemicals as no gloves are needed unless you mind dirty hands.
For painted surrfaces, Strip paint (mechanically or chemically), your choice. Wire brush the heck out of the rust pits. Rust is like cancer that will come back unless you remove it all! Remove it all, down to good steel! Apply a "Metal conditioner" (it's an acid), pits the good steel and cleans out the little places where you might not have gotten with the wire brush brissles. No chemical or other treatment will EVER replace mechanical brush removal of rust. Be thorough and careful (glasses) with your wire brush.
Use care to neutralize all of the chemicals that you've used on the surface to be painted. Usually it's be rinsing with pleanty of water and a clean rag.
The new steril surface you've preped for paint will quickly rust. A zink based metal etching primer (out of a buzz can) can be used at this point, if you really care about the product you are producing. The best way to apply this metal etching primer is to "powder it on", it's better to see through it! Remeber your only tryin to get the good primer to stick! Next go with your standard primer and paint!!!
These methods are time proven and I painted a 68 Cougar over 20yrs ago that had extensive rust in places. The car still looks great and is holding up to the Buffalo weather fine, but is also well cared for!!!
I appreciate the help you guys are lending this guy! I'll be looking into some of the products and techniques mentioned! I'm just wondering if the whole electricity thing neutralizes the rust enough??? Very interesting!
For painted surrfaces, Strip paint (mechanically or chemically), your choice. Wire brush the heck out of the rust pits. Rust is like cancer that will come back unless you remove it all! Remove it all, down to good steel! Apply a "Metal conditioner" (it's an acid), pits the good steel and cleans out the little places where you might not have gotten with the wire brush brissles. No chemical or other treatment will EVER replace mechanical brush removal of rust. Be thorough and careful (glasses) with your wire brush.
Use care to neutralize all of the chemicals that you've used on the surface to be painted. Usually it's be rinsing with pleanty of water and a clean rag.
The new steril surface you've preped for paint will quickly rust. A zink based metal etching primer (out of a buzz can) can be used at this point, if you really care about the product you are producing. The best way to apply this metal etching primer is to "powder it on", it's better to see through it! Remeber your only tryin to get the good primer to stick! Next go with your standard primer and paint!!!
These methods are time proven and I painted a 68 Cougar over 20yrs ago that had extensive rust in places. The car still looks great and is holding up to the Buffalo weather fine, but is also well cared for!!!
I appreciate the help you guys are lending this guy! I'll be looking into some of the products and techniques mentioned! I'm just wondering if the whole electricity thing neutralizes the rust enough??? Very interesting!
skipS
Member
- Local time
- 5:07 PM
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- Oct 29, 2008
- Messages
- 55
Here are the first pics of my rust removal Project. I used aluminum foil and naval jelly ( only a tiny bit) I started with the easier back rim but it was not that much worse from the front rim which I will start on Wed. I still have to work on the sprocket 
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/gs1229/?action=view¤t=motorizedbikebuild001-1.jpg
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/gs1229/?action=view¤t=motorizedbikebuild006.jpg
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/gs1229/?action=view¤t=motorizedbikebuild001-1.jpg
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/gs1229/?action=view¤t=motorizedbikebuild006.jpg
MoonHog
Member
You are probably going to have to paint those rims once you have removed the rust. I remember when I was a kid, the rims on my 'banana seat' bike started to get a little rust, and I cleaned them with steel wool...spotless. Oh my dissapointment a week later when they were rusted completely all the way around.
If you *really, really* want to make the rust stay away, use a product called POR-15 on the frame. You actually want to apply it with a little bit of surface rust on the frame, but once you put that stuff on, it seals whatever you stick it on, and it wont ever rust again. If you get it on your skin, you will have a birth mark that will not go away for many weeks...so wear gloves, and keep your hands away from your face if you are going to work with it.
If you *really, really* want to make the rust stay away, use a product called POR-15 on the frame. You actually want to apply it with a little bit of surface rust on the frame, but once you put that stuff on, it seals whatever you stick it on, and it wont ever rust again. If you get it on your skin, you will have a birth mark that will not go away for many weeks...so wear gloves, and keep your hands away from your face if you are going to work with it.
