Best Sealer Against Old Paper Gaskets

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I personally would advise against using gasket sealer if you have to keep using a ethanol added fuel. I say this is because you'll be rebuilding your carburetor in few months from now. This was the very reason I started carrying a spare carb. You'll need to order several K20-WYL rebuild kits. Install an inline fuel valve as well unless your tank is still connected to the bottom side of your engine.

Fortunately for me they started selling a 100% grade gas here in my town. However, I still carry a spare carb now just in case I need it.
Alcohol breaks it down and recommend for clean up... If you run ethanol use Yamaha bond 5...
 

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One thing to concider with sealant and paints etc... Is the shelf life... Automotive stores sell the most of it and stay away from Amazon it's usually over stock and not fresh stock
 
One thing to concider with sealant and paints etc... Is the shelf life... Automotive stores sell the most of it and stay away from Amazon it's usually over stock and not fresh stock
FWIW store your silicone/sealants in refrigerator, shelf life is greatly extended.
 
I wrap up paint rollers and brushes in plastic they don't dry out and I don't clean the brushes... It's been a year and a half of painting same brush and roller... They do get chunky and dirt and dust in it so I do a little bit of painting on the carport where it's not noticed to clean it out.... I waste very little paint this way...
 

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Another trick is I paint over the siding with Kool seal to protect the rubber seals on roofing screws... It reflects the sunlight also... The silicone based is better than the latex base...
 

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I always use the high heat version of gasket maker RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanization) that stuff you picked has a Operating temperature range of -60° to 500°F (-50° to 260°C) My first motor I used that brand but it said it was high heat -54C to 316C ( -65F to 600F) and had about 9000 Km on it before it spun out the clutch assembly and puked out the butterfly nut stripping all the threads.

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On my last two motors I used this stuff, It's supposed to be good up to 343C (650F). I have seen other types that are supposedly good up to 700F intermittently.

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Not sure why but this year I bought a new tube, The one I used last year around ~April or May
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I used my honey oil spreader to remove the little plug that occurred under the cap and she was good as new, I can't remember what the shelf life of the JB weld brand is but the ultra copper is said to last about 2.5 years
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Now about that problem that does not exist in any of the motors I built that a few of the forum members mentioned is trying to help you solve is are these resistant to and not break down even in the presence of ten percent ethanol Gasoline -- In my case it stayed strong and rubbery even after 3000 Km.

I use this stuff everywhere the Jug and the head, Intake and the muffler Gasket, I even use it to seal up the magneto side cover to reduce the chance of getting water in there.

I even use it to to seal up the slots in the carburetor where it connects to the intake tube I tried using electrical tape but as almost everyone here can guess it fails quite rapidly, I would show you a picture but I can't find my old carb right now, The way I do it is before putting the carb on I fill the slots from the outside first and then do some touch ups on the inside while trying to keep everything really clean and only fill the slots, Last year I did it once and it lasted all year (3000Km)

I can't remember If I did this little trick with the ultra copper on the carb but I more than likely did. My 2nd and third motor I used the JB weld brand to seal everything up.
 
I use the fuel resistant permatex on all my small engines.

I just trust the experts when it comes to this stuff.

Water proof for pumps, fuel resistant for small engines, and black for all my other engines needs.
 
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