Best/Strongest Rims for rear chain drive.

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Those are the kind I use.

Zip tie the spokes, I've got thousands of miles, none bent, none loose, and we inspected the bearings a few months ago. Perfect condition.

Put about 4 layers of tape (I use electric tape) over the spoke ends, put in a puncture-proof tube ($8) and you'll never have to worry about adding air.

Sorry read the wrong post, so your positive these will work? Not questioning your knowledge just don't want to but stuck with some useless rims. But it'l work for a 21 speed mountain bike? Also, what did you mean by zip-tieing the spokes?
 
...ladies,
Look closely at the picture of the wheels you posted. The left wheel in the pic. If you zoom in and look toward the center of the wheel you will see the brake arm hanging in a downward orientation. This pic is of a coaster brake wheel...if that's what you are looking for. Might just be a generic photo. You could also email Niagra and inquire just to be sure.
WC
 
if you use a cruiser or a bmx hub your chain line will most likely be screwy , maybe you can get it in line with one of the 3 front chainwheels. also i assume your bike has vertical dropouts so you have no way to slide your wheel to tighten your chain you'll have to use a tensioner or the "magic ratio" which means getting the right sized front sprocket. you'll save yourself time and probably money by buying the correct wheel for your frame.
 
No its not verticle drop out, its a cheap mountain bike. I pull the wheel back to tighten the chain. I think its a generic photo because i found a freewheeling wheel on another website. I will call and double check before ordering anything.
 
Like bama I also ziptie my spokes on stock and 12g wheels.

None broken, bent or loose in years.

Several flat tires though. Next time I'm gonna stick an old tire inside the new tire for REAL toughies.
 
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Sorry read the wrong post, so your positive these will work? Not questioning your knowledge just don't want to but stuck with some useless rims. But it'l work for a 21 speed mountain bike? Also, what did you mean by zip-tieing the spokes?

That is the same "wheel master" brand...I pay the same price at a bike shop as you are getting on-line, so if you buy from a bike shop, you just have to specify you want one threaded for a multi-speed cassette.

You have to have a special socket to remove the cassette, and by using a bike shop, taking your old wheel with you, they might do that for you, saving you from having to purchase that $10 socket.

I also get my puncture-proof tubes for the same price as at Wal/K Mart.

Because the bike will be going 3 times faster than normal, zip ties at the spoke intersections "firm up" the structure, especially when you bottom out a pothole.

BMX racing bikes weld the spokes together for their jumping, that's where I heard the trick, and it works.
 

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I have been using the Wheel Master Steel model since 2005, and Jack, who bought one from me back then, and is now super addicted to the hobby, has been using the same wheel. We have quite a few MB's combined under our belts now.

He was helping me with the trike install yesterday, and we discussed YOUR situation.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=18281

Josh at the bike shop keeps 5-6 of these steel wheels in stock for either Jack or me to pick up at any time, but both of us are kind of tired of the rust.


So, what we are going to do is switch to the Wheel Master ALLOY model, tell Josh to order ALLOYS from now on.

Like I said above, I think they are about $50-55, but the 12 gauge will give you the strength you seek, and this is the least expensive rear wheel we've found.
 
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Well i think i'm just going to powder coat them once i get them. So i'll stick with the steel. But one last question. The rim 26 by 2.125 with the 5 speed flywheel will fit mike bike i assume. I just need to know what width of tires will fit on the suckers. I can't seem to find anywhere. I can't go too wide cas they wont fit in my frame.
 
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