Better clutch?



FNTPuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2018
Messages
675
Nothing special here, just a few little tricks but my motor isn't super powerful. My clutch setup is larger 1/8" ceramic bearings(stainless are just as good for this application and way cheaper), sanded flat the stock clutch plate on belt sander since they are way uneven stock, tightened the inside clutch shaft spring for more pressure, and a super-secret pro trick that I got from a dude in Spain lol. Sounds crazy but trust me...

Buy a washing machine belt and cut clutch pads from it. Its super strong (a full washing machine tub is over 200lbs loaded and the belt has to rotate the sh*t out of it thousands of times), its grippier than the cheap dry stock rubber pads, doesn't seem to mind the heat, doesn't send bits of metal wire and crap into the bearings like stock pads, and they last a long time (when's the last time you had to replace the belt in your washer? They last like 20 years).

My current 2stroke is nothing crazy so won't be the power or TQ of a case reed stroker or anything, but it makes enough power to hit low 50s and the clutch is a dream. No slipping, smooth, and no pad issues. Adjust the number of pads used to customize the slip and grip - I think I am using 8 pads, roughly half. Was way too grippy with full set and didn't let me slip it on takeoff. If I made more power I would replace the spring instead of just tightening it, but I wouldn't pay for the "HD Spring" which is just a cut down valve spring. Measure the stock spring, then find a valvespring with an comparable spring rate and the open lbs you want so when it is cut it matches what you need to make your own for like $5. 360#s seems like a LOT of force for cheap chinese clutch shaft but I don't know what stock is so could be wrong.

Note that I have no clue if the pads will hold up to the heat and power of a fully built motor, or how they would handle long trips since I only ride locally for ~20mins at a time max, but it works great on my baby piston-port 47mm. Was like $9 shipped and enough to do a bunch of clutches, almost 4ft long total, so wouldn't hurt to test it out I guess.

The hot ticket for big power is really that Darraugh billet plate with the brake material pads and an HD spring, but thats like $80 vs $15 for valvespring, sanded flat plate, and washer belt.

I looked but couldn't find them. Did see the rear hub is $165 now...
It's pretty dope. I got one for my 4stroke setup and its nice, but it does lack some attention to detail - some of the tapped holes weren't cleaned all the way, one of the chain adjuster bolts was tapped crooked, and I wish it had a proper 1/2" axle instead of the long hardened bolt...but for the price and the fact that there are no other options really its not a bad deal. Basically you have moped hubs which I would only trust to about 10ish HP, then the ghettobike hub. Nothing else if you want a pedal sprocket unless you can make your own. Yea, those are motorcyle axle plates with steel reducer bushings for 1/2" axles LOL.
89339
 

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Spare_Parts

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
2,024
Nothing special here, just a few little tricks but my motor isn't super powerful. My clutch setup is larger 1/8" ceramic bearings(stainless are just as good for this application and way cheaper), sanded flat the stock clutch plate on belt sander since they are way uneven stock, tightened the inside clutch shaft spring for more pressure, and a super-secret pro trick that I got from a dude in Spain lol. Sounds crazy but trust me...

Buy a washing machine belt and cut clutch pads from it. Its super strong (a full washing machine tub is over 200lbs loaded and the belt has to rotate the sh*t out of it thousands of times), its grippier than the cheap dry stock rubber pads, doesn't seem to mind the heat, doesn't send bits of metal wire and crap into the bearings like stock pads, and they last a long time (when's the last time you had to replace the belt in your washer? They last like 20 years).

My current 2stroke is nothing crazy so won't be the power or TQ of a case reed stroker or anything, but it makes enough power to hit low 50s and the clutch is a dream. No slipping, smooth, and no pad issues. Adjust the number of pads used to customize the slip and grip - I think I am using 8 pads, roughly half. Was way too grippy with full set and didn't let me slip it on takeoff. If I made more power I would replace the spring instead of just tightening it, but I wouldn't pay for the "HD Spring" which is just a cut down valve spring. Measure the stock spring, then find a valvespring with an comparable spring rate and the open lbs you want so when it is cut it matches what you need to make your own for like $5. 360#s seems like a LOT of force for cheap chinese clutch shaft but I don't know what stock is so could be wrong.

Note that I have no clue if the pads will hold up to the heat and power of a fully built motor, or how they would handle long trips since I only ride locally for ~20mins at a time max, but it works great on my baby piston-port 47mm. Was like $9 shipped and enough to do a bunch of clutches, almost 4ft long total, so wouldn't hurt to test it out I guess.

The hot ticket for big power is really that Darraugh billet plate with the brake material pads and an HD spring, but thats like $80 vs $15 for valvespring, sanded flat plate, and washer belt.


It's pretty dope. I got one for my 4stroke setup and its nice, but it does lack some attention to detail - some of the tapped holes weren't cleaned all the way, one of the chain adjuster bolts was tapped crooked, and I wish it had a proper 1/2" axle instead of the long hardened bolt...but for the price and the fact that there are no other options really its not a bad deal. Basically you have moped hubs which I would only trust to about 10ish HP, then the ghettobike hub. Nothing else if you want a pedal sprocket unless you can make your own. Yea, those are motorcyle axle plates with steel reducer bushings for 1/2" axles LOL.
View attachment 89339
f***ing awesome post! Thank you! Any chance you have a link to the belt? Guess a flat belt? I did the 1/8" g25 bearings like you had posted before and dry it is much quieter than stock junk. Have the stock seeutek pressure plate nice and flat. Through that on my mill (bench belt sander!) Have pads on order from bgf but I'll order a belt to cut new ones. The spacer on the spring easily doubled the clamping force. Note : gt5 clutch springs are longer then zeda. Has the same wire diameter and number of turns. Technically they are the same rate but at installed height the gt5 spring has a higher rate. If the spring is cut and a bigger spacer is used rate goes up more. Looked at hundreds of valve springs and got a headache lol.

So I just ordered the cnc plate and 6 pads. But, I don't want to do that on both bikes. 50.26 shipped with 6 pads. That's what he recommends. Btw, going to message him about producing heads. Think others should do the same. Would be nice to have options.
 

GreasyChris

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Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
789
I'll send him a message about making heads. Maybe if enough of us do it, he will. My quote was $58 and change for the pressure plate, gonna order one this week. Working in a garage you would think id have some valve springs kicking around but sadly no, lol. That's an awesome tip about the washer belt👍
 

FNTPuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2018
Messages
675
f***ing awesome post! Thank you! Any chance you have a link to the belt? Guess a flat belt? I did the 1/8" g25 bearings like you had posted before and dry it is much quieter than stock junk. Have the stock seeutek pressure plate nice and flat. Through that on my mill (bench belt sander!) Have pads on order from bgf but I'll order a belt to cut new ones. The spacer on the spring easily doubled the clamping force. Note : gt5 clutch springs are longer then zeda. Has the same wire diameter and number of turns. Technically they are the same rate but at installed height the gt5 spring has a higher rate. If the spring is cut and a bigger spacer is used rate goes up more. Looked at hundreds of valve springs and got a headache lol.

So I just ordered the cnc plate and 6 pads. But, I don't want to do that on both bikes. 50.26 shipped with 6 pads. That's what he recommends. Btw, going to message him about producing heads. Think others should do the same. Would be nice to have options.
I haven't shimmed my stock spring, just tightened it, but that is a great idea. What thickness did you use? My motor isn't as strong as yours and its not slipping anymore so I will probably just shim it to half of what you did for better clutch feel.

I can't find the exact belt I used but I literally searched for "Washing Machine Belt" and got one that looked heavy duty lol. I am about to try a tractor V-Belt next - I have one lying around that I will cut to test once I have free time. Looks like a TQ converter drive belt and was purchased for my fathers tractor but never used...its a harder rubber than the washing machine belt so I think it may have a better feel when you slip the clutch. The washer belt is almost TOO grippy lol.

Tomorrow I can test the V-belt pads for ya and let you know how it works. They are cheap too, like $10 shipped.
 

Spare_Parts

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
2,024
I shimed the gt5 spring 5mm. If you have the zeda spring I would do the 5mm. The zeda here is 29mm tall. Never measured the gt5 spring but would guess it at 35mm or so.

So did you use a v belt? Which way did you cut it?
 
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