Bicycle Alarm & It Starts Your Engine!

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Scooter Car Security Alarm System Remote Control 12V Anti-theft Motorcycle Bike | eBay

Horn alarm, don't need a key to drive, easy to install and use. Horn alarm, directional light flashing. Remote start, do not need a key to drive. Remote stop, Anti-theft and Anti-grab. 2 x Remote. 12V 2 in 1 Car Truck Heater Heating Cool Fan Dryer Windscreen Demister Defroster.

www.ebay.com

I bought one.
Not only for security, but it'll start my engine by remote control!

How cool is THAT?!

Of course, I installed an electric start on my 212cc engine.

The alarm/remote start has a small 9v battery,
and I have an Milwaukee M18 battery in my bike's "battery box".

Still in the building process.

 

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Unreal!

Everything fits in my “battery box “.

M18v cordless battery and adapter, disconnect switch, fuse box, alarm, siren, signal relay, voltage reducer, 9v battery, remote starter control.

 

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FWIW, I'm using a 3-liter peanut gas tank as my "battery box".

I cut it lengthwise to form the compartment.

Actually, I cut 2 tanks apart lenthwise, so the top and bottom halves would have their own mating flange.

Six M5 bolts keep the flanges together,
and the "battery box" bolts to the top tube, like a gas tank.

The battery compartment will have a 1" hole punched underneath, near the fuel outlet, for the wires to enter/exit.

The real 2.5 liter fuel tank looks like 4 cartons of cigarettes, stacked on the rear rack.

 

[Anton]

Very cool idea!

 

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Thanks.

It’s getting REALLY tight in the “battery box “.....
like “feeler gauge clearance “ tightness.

I had to SHAVE the bottom edge of the battery to shut the cover.

I placed a battery disconnect switch in the tank’s filler neck.

I should’ve moved it forward 1/4” for more clearance.

When I welded a small plate in there for the switch, I put it in too high. I should’ve lowered it 1/4”.

So I used a ball peen hammer on the bottom of the gas cap to clear the switch.

All the components are screwed onto a sheet metal faceplate.

I can't screw the plate down securely, to the bottom of the the "battery box".

If the plate is off towards the back by .100", the battery top won't shut.

I need to make temporary "sliding clamps" for the mounting plate, then close the cover.

I believe there's still room in the tank/box for the signal relay, 9v battery and the voltage reducer.

BTW, I used a knockout punch to make two 1-inch holes in the tank's bottom to route the electrical wiring.

I'll install rubber grommets to protect the wiring.

Once I locate the exact mounting spot, I'll make them permanent.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Thanks.

It’s getting REALLY tight in the “battery box “.....
like “feeler gauge clearance “ tightness front and rear of the battery.

I had to SHAVE the top edge of the battery to clear the cover.

I placed a battery disconnect switch in the tank’s filler neck.

I should’ve moved it forward 1/4” for more clearance.

When I welded a small plate in there for the switch, I should’ve lowered it another 1/4”.

So I used a ball peen hammer on the bottom of the gas cap for more clearance.

All the components are screwed onto a sheet metal faceplate.

I can't blindly mount the plate.

If I mount it off by a fracion of an inch, this tank/box won't close.

What I need to do is install temporary sliding clamps.

When I find its exact location,
I'll permanently secure the faceplate.

 

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The mounting plate is secure!

Now I need to grind the flanges evenly.....

and wire up this ball of wires.

Typically, there's no instructions to install anything.

Google is my friend,

and I spent 32 years playing with huge wiring nightmares.

 

[CrazyDan]

I need pics of this battery box.

 

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Picture a 2.5 l Peanut gas tank, mounted on a bicycle’s top tube.

That’s what it looks like, outwardly.

I’ll take pics soon, when it’s finished.

 

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