Bicycle Frame Hindsite

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by OldHippie, May 27, 2008.

  1. OldHippie

    OldHippie New Member

    Based on hindsight, what type of bicycle would you get if you started over?

  2. datz510

    datz510 Member

    I motorized my mountain bike.. I think I'll go with a cruiser with a more upright seating position next just for comfort. My lower back (i have back problems anyway) has been hurting lately due to the hunched over MTB riding position.
  3. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

    I have a cruiser with a gebe rear rack on it. Love the whole thing, but if I had to do it over again I would do it with a full suspension MTB. But I like sitting upright so I would also put the cruiser handlebars on it. Changing the handlebars would then mean longer cables. But the trade off is great. Much softer ride. The springers help, but there's nothing like that suspension on the rear. It's just that the full suspension bikes are all kind of short in the length, I like that stretch look and feeling.
  4. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    For my trike, I would have bought the WhizWheelz Path instead of the Zoomer. I paid an extra $800-$900 for great gear for pedal power which I rarely use.
  5. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

    For all you cruiser lovers including myself but hate the hardtail concept, I found something at wallyworld. It's pretty much a full suspension cruiser for only $112.

    Don't know if it would work with a frame mounted motor, but it would sure work with my racked gebe. lol
  6. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    It's a shame the bottom tube arcs up like that.
  7. decompiler

    decompiler Member

    My first bike was a Kulana Moondog. While it is an affordable and spiffy frame to use, I had a difficult time trying to fit the engine on that frame.

    I wish I had started out with some old yard sale steel V frame mountain bike. In hind sight, that kind of frame would have made my first build go A LOT smoother. A frame with a little suspension already built in. I don't have the kind of money needed to retrofit a cruiser frame with suspension at the moment.
  8. GasKicker

    GasKicker Member

    My first bike was a Huffy Mountain bike. The engine barely fits and I cannot position the motor in such a way as to square both the front and rear mounts and so I have been shearing off mounting studs.
    I should have gone with the cruiser styles. I have had great success with the Kulana Moondog and the Schwinn Point Beach bikes.
  9. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    That would be a shame for a frame mount- and with a good spring loaded tensioner, it could work, but I'm sure Zev0 is thinking of a rack....for which it would be a great choice.

    Gotta say, though- frame choice is a matter of what you are after. For a rack mount where function is foremost- full suspension would be great.

    If you want a frame mount, but more comfort and function is important- a MB frame may work.

    Is retro style a consideration? A cruiser or cruiser style comfort bike may be the ticket.

    I wanted to mimic an early motorcycle from the teens, so a single speed cruiser was the way to go for me...pedaling is for start up only, so I don't care about gears.

    Others want to pedal along with the engine, so single speed is not the way to go, usually.
  10. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    I bought the wally world cruiser/staton friction drive as a 'proof of concept' anyway. I fully planned on upgrading after I got some miles on the current rig, and got to know more what I needed (and wanted) in a long-term rig.

    Right now, I'm seriously considering a Dekra shaft drive bike - either the Comfort Bike, or the Urban Voyager Comfort Bike.

    I know that a shaft drive is a bit less efficient than a chain, but, when combined with an internal shifter hub, it's just about maintenance free, and, with a motor, the peddling efficiency isn't nearly as important as it is when you've ONLY got peddles available.

    And, since I'll probably be moving to a wetter climate in the future, I'm looking at a change from the friction drive to a chain drive, also.
    Last edited: May 28, 2008
  11. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    It would also work perfectly with a chengine mounted forward of the crank cotter like the old autocycle designs.. would just need a mount to be fabbed up...

    If I *ever* get a job and money my next bike will be specced as follows...

    Cruiser frame - most likely the one I have with the addition of all white tyres
    Frame mount engine - most likely a 2-stroke
    Jackshaft to rear wheel
    Shimano cyber-nexus 8 speed rear hub and coaster brake set up
    Computer controlled transmission with autoshift or manual option
    recoil starter (chengine)

    As you can see I like a challenge lol

    Jemma xx
  12. BSA

    BSA Guest

    Exactly the same here. I would get a cruiser bike and add sprung saddle and front springer forks.

  13. 4doora

    4doora Guest

    I've got a Schwinn Stingray.
    It's off the charts with the "looking cool" factor.
    But as far as comfort and speed, it's a little lacking.
    If I did it again I'd probably pick up an old Schwinn cruiser from the flea market
  14. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I sure spaced it on that one. How could I forget the problem of running power to a suspension rear? Sorry 'bout that.
  15. Snax

    Snax Member

    Jemma, why install a jackshaft?
  16. lennyharp

    lennyharp Member


    A few thoughts I have had on a frame for my next bike are... I like the idea of a longer frame with space built in for mounting a motor low, behind the seat tube. This Big Dummy from Surley is a great version of what I am thinking of. I Would rework the area just behind the seat tube to be open for the motor and not longer than needed.

    I like the predictable handling of a racing geometry so would go with about 72 degrees at head and seat tubes which is, I think, what Surley did for this bike. This makes slow riding easier as well as quick maneuvers more sure and safe. Have you ever noticed that a cruiser with say 70 or 69 degree head angle will sink and raise as the bike is steered, which is a drag when you are going slow on a climb or on an obstacle course.
    Here are the specs on the frame.

    I would have a fairly upright set of bars so I could not have to bend over too much. The longer wheelbase will soften the ride somewhat. I would also have a Rock Shock or other suspension fork. The added stability from a lower center of gravity is another plus.

    Attached Files:

  17. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    In order to transfer drive from a chengine or similar with a left hand side PTO to drive the cyber-nexus hub I am looking at I need to transfer the power across to the chain on the other side of the bike... hence the jackshaft..

    Thinking about it if I can spec the jackshaft with a gebe style gear at one end I could run the rackmount as I have it through the gears on my current bike... hmm $180 + delivery for parts... *ponders* ...

    Jemma xx
  18. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    I wouldn't say this is something said in hindsight, I already knew the limitations of using the XR75 being that its somewhat short wheelbase, rim brakes and "entry level" full suspension.
    I just figure that when I decide to upgrade to a larger downhill mountain bike with long travel suspension and disc brakes I can just swap the system over to the new bike and put another staton kit on the xr75 to sell or whatever. I already had the bike so I figured it was wise to put it to good use rather than let it collect dust. Overall I'm extremely happy with the machine but I like to upgrade replace and sell once I've done everything I can to a project. I'd have to say building these and bringing them to life is my favorite part of motoredbiking.