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bike light generator -[ white wire - battery lighting ]



well i decided to re connect my light generator last night and did all the work and wire tuck last night and i went to ride it today and my back light blew (WTH) so i went and fixed it put the new light on and went to ride it again thay worked when i looked at the back and the frount so i gave it a little more throttle and i look back again no lights frount or back generator was still connecting with the tire wires were still attached i had no more lights. i tried the battery set up real quick to see if my lights were burned out again or if it was just my generator of course it was my light. i even baught higher voltage lights the one that were in thay still blew. so do you think mabey those generators are not ment to spin that fast? is it givein the lights to much energy im kinda not able to ride at night unless i have lights and the generator is realy my only option. so what should i do? should i get better lights? what?



general input is that "regular" bicycle accessories like dynamos & analog speedo's just don't hold up to the sustained speed.

i always have a cheapo front & rear led on my bike so i can at least be seen.


Don't worry, it's normal. Happened to me too. Just go to radioshack, buy a 9 volt battery adapter or any kind of battery holder, a small switch, a small "Project enclosure" box to hold battery, and a bulb that matches to the battery, mount it all, and ride.

This should be temporary as the parts to make it shouldn't cost you more than $6, at least until you can buy a nice set of heavy duty lights or something.

I am buying parts until I can set up everything. The Autozone near me sells rear motorcycle lights in their own enclosures, in round or square, that I plan to mount on a fender or under the seat. Plus, nice looking round headlights. Also have to set up some kind of battery system, and Switches mounted on my handlebars like a motorcycle. Adapt other vehicles parts to your needs, costs more, but lasts longer. Looks great also.


I posted this in an older thread.... I hope it OK to post again.

Just a thought - perhaps a dumb thought:

I know that I am whipping a dead horse here.
But, here goes my wild ideas.
And, there are others that have the tools and resources to check or modify the concept.
Engineer, I am not.
Basic - Yes, however.

What about using a bridge (or rectifier, I suppose might be better?) to convert the AC to DC and use a battery as a crude "regulator"? This is somewhat similar to the old Honda 90's - similar, not the same.

A 3 watt bulb (4 Cell LED Maglight?) at 6 volts would draw 0.5 Amps.

The battery would take up the slack, so to say.
When lights are in the off position, there would be charging.
In the on position, there might be a slight drain (especially with a rear light or low current LED).

If a zener regulator was desired, so be it for the consummate techs.

This is crude, but just a thought. I am certain it has been thought of and perhaps shot down. I just didn't see mention of it in this thread or in search.

Excuse the schematic below, it was done in MS Paint and is as cruse as the concept.

If someone with the tools and resources wishes to give it a try, Please post results in a new thread to be easy located.





Oh, and perhaps the crude schematic above would/could regulate the dynamo type generators too and keep the lights from blowing out.

It would be simple & cheap to buy a brige and some batteries .... Even NiCads or NMh "D" cells (4) might work....?????


i saw the post in my white wire topic...been mulling it over. it seems almost too simple?

could you describe in layman's terms what that "bridge" is, and how exactly it would be placed in the circuit?

6V battery, this "bridge" thing, and (2) 3W LED's? am i reading this right?


could you describe in layman's terms what that "bridge" is, and how exactly it would be placed in the circuit?

Yes - A bridge is a series of diodes placed in a square configuration that converts A/C voltage to D/C voltage.

They are sold as a unit already assembled or can be constructed using four (4) diodes; symbol: ->|

The diodes only allow current to travel one direction; Direct Current = D/C, instead of alternating two directions; Alternating Current = A/C

The battery in the circuit would act more like a buffer than a regulator although having regulating properties by "absorbing" excessive current when needed and providing "extra" current when that is needed.

As stated, crude, but very similar to the old Honda's - similar, not the same.

Here is a pic of a homemade bridge:

Here is a moderately heavy duty one sold at an electronics store (not Ratshack):

They sell the already made type in various amperages. This is the one I had in mind.

Yes, it does seem simple and crude, but in theory I believe that there is some validity for some successes - some anyway.

As stated before, a zener regulator could be added by the consummate techs.

NOTE: Not certain, but SOME of the LED assemblies have a zener type regulator built in to regulate the bulb's current (not the battery's).

NOTE: On the rear light, a much, much lower wattage is need just "to be seen" and "legal".



One last note about the "dead horse whippin"

All I can say about the little charging system is that 0.5 amp is 0.5 amp. Period.

Not matter how you regulate or convert to DC voltage, it will still only have the abilty to run at about 3 watts - That is it. Period.

3 watts divided by 6 volts is a half of an amp (0.5).
Or, 0.5 amps times 6 volts is 3 watts.

There is no way around that.

That is what I meant about whipping a dead horse.


A sealed lead acid type battery would be best for the "absorbing" application.

The nicads and nickel metal hydride batteries were an after thought.

They make small sealed lead acid batteries:

6V , 5AH
AGM, 4V, 5AH, Dimensions (in): 1.89L X 1.89W X 4.02H Weight 1.4 lbs
Price $10.00

If someone were ambitious, they could make a crap-load of dough on Fleebay......


Apr 24, 2007
i got a schwinn generator light set from target for 10bux, a 12V automotive dome bulb, ran one wire from bulb to power, one ground, elec. taped around base of bulb n pressed it into where the screw-type bulb goes. Can go as fast as wanted w/no burnout. using battery light for rear