bike light generator -[ white wire - battery lighting ]

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by jeffspeeder, Apr 24, 2007.

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  1. jeffspeeder

    jeffspeeder Guest

    well i decided to re connect my light generator last night and did all the work and wire tuck last night and i went to ride it today and my back light blew (WTH) so i went and fixed it put the new light on and went to ride it again thay worked when i looked at the back and the frount so i gave it a little more throttle and i look back again no lights frount or back generator was still connecting with the tire wires were still attached i had no more lights. i tried the battery set up real quick to see if my lights were burned out again or if it was just my generator of course it was my light. i even baught higher voltage lights the one that were in thay still blew. so do you think mabey those generators are not ment to spin that fast? is it givein the lights to much energy im kinda not able to ride at night unless i have lights and the generator is realy my only option. so what should i do? should i get better lights? what?

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    general input is that "regular" bicycle accessories like dynamos & analog speedo's just don't hold up to the sustained speed.

    i always have a cheapo front & rear led on my bike so i can at least be seen.
  3. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    Don't worry, it's normal. Happened to me too. Just go to radioshack, buy a 9 volt battery adapter or any kind of battery holder, a small switch, a small "Project enclosure" box to hold battery, and a bulb that matches to the battery, mount it all, and ride.

    This should be temporary as the parts to make it shouldn't cost you more than $6, at least until you can buy a nice set of heavy duty lights or something.

    I am buying parts until I can set up everything. The Autozone near me sells rear motorcycle lights in their own enclosures, in round or square, that I plan to mount on a fender or under the seat. Plus, nice looking round headlights. Also have to set up some kind of battery system, and Switches mounted on my handlebars like a motorcycle. Adapt other vehicles parts to your needs, costs more, but lasts longer. Looks great also.
  4. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    I posted this in an older thread.... I hope it OK to post again.

    Just a thought - perhaps a dumb thought:

    I know that I am whipping a dead horse here.
    But, here goes my wild ideas.
    And, there are others that have the tools and resources to check or modify the concept.
    Engineer, I am not.
    Basic - Yes, however.

    What about using a bridge (or rectifier, I suppose might be better?) to convert the AC to DC and use a battery as a crude "regulator"? This is somewhat similar to the old Honda 90's - similar, not the same.

    A 3 watt bulb (4 Cell LED Maglight?) at 6 volts would draw 0.5 Amps.

    The battery would take up the slack, so to say.
    When lights are in the off position, there would be charging.
    In the on position, there might be a slight drain (especially with a rear light or low current LED).

    If a zener regulator was desired, so be it for the consummate techs.

    This is crude, but just a thought. I am certain it has been thought of and perhaps shot down. I just didn't see mention of it in this thread or in search.

    Excuse the schematic below, it was done in MS Paint and is as cruse as the concept.

    If someone with the tools and resources wishes to give it a try, Please post results in a new thread to be easy located.



  5. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    Oh, and perhaps the crude schematic above would/could regulate the dynamo type generators too and keep the lights from blowing out.

    It would be simple & cheap to buy a brige and some batteries .... Even NiCads or NMh "D" cells (4) might work....?????
  6. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i saw the post in my white wire topic...been mulling it over. it seems almost too simple?

    could you describe in layman's terms what that "bridge" is, and how exactly it would be placed in the circuit?

    6V battery, this "bridge" thing, and (2) 3W LED's? am i reading this right?
  7. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    could you describe in layman's terms what that "bridge" is, and how exactly it would be placed in the circuit?

    Yes - A bridge is a series of diodes placed in a square configuration that converts A/C voltage to D/C voltage.

    They are sold as a unit already assembled or can be constructed using four (4) diodes; symbol: ->|

    The diodes only allow current to travel one direction; Direct Current = D/C, instead of alternating two directions; Alternating Current = A/C

    The battery in the circuit would act more like a buffer than a regulator although having regulating properties by "absorbing" excessive current when needed and providing "extra" current when that is needed.

    As stated, crude, but very similar to the old Honda's - similar, not the same.

    Here is a pic of a homemade bridge:


    Here is a moderately heavy duty one sold at an electronics store (not Ratshack):


    They sell the already made type in various amperages. This is the one I had in mind.

    Yes, it does seem simple and crude, but in theory I believe that there is some validity for some successes - some anyway.

    As stated before, a zener regulator could be added by the consummate techs.

    NOTE: Not certain, but SOME of the LED assemblies have a zener type regulator built in to regulate the bulb's current (not the battery's).

    NOTE: On the rear light, a much, much lower wattage is need just "to be seen" and "legal".

  8. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    One last note about the "dead horse whippin"

    All I can say about the little charging system is that 0.5 amp is 0.5 amp. Period.

    Not matter how you regulate or convert to DC voltage, it will still only have the abilty to run at about 3 watts - That is it. Period.

    3 watts divided by 6 volts is a half of an amp (0.5).
    Or, 0.5 amps times 6 volts is 3 watts.

    There is no way around that.

    That is what I meant about whipping a dead horse.
  9. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    A sealed lead acid type battery would be best for the "absorbing" application.

    The nicads and nickel metal hydride batteries were an after thought.

    They make small sealed lead acid batteries:

    6V , 5AH
    AGM, 4V, 5AH, Dimensions (in): 1.89L X 1.89W X 4.02H Weight 1.4 lbs
    Price $10.00


    If someone were ambitious, they could make a crap-load of dough on Fleebay......
  10. spunout

    spunout Member

    i got a schwinn generator light set from target for 10bux, a 12V automotive dome bulb, ran one wire from bulb to power, one ground, elec. taped around base of bulb n pressed it into where the screw-type bulb goes. Can go as fast as wanted w/no burnout. using battery light for rear
  11. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    I did this too, except I used a heavy duty 6volt battery from a flashlight, (it's this thick brick of a battery, im sure you guys have seen them before) and modifed the headlight so the ground connection is diverted from touching the frame, and instead connects to the (-) terminal through a wire, mounted a nice little toggle switch on the handlebars, in the most perfect spot, and rode!
  12. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Hey DC,
    I understand all there is about the Wheatstone Bridge Rectifier but where does the overcharge dump so as not to blow the battery up after it has hit the max load amps?
    Doc :???:
  13. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    where does the overcharge dump so as not to blow the battery up after it has hit the max load amps?

    Yes, good question...

    I always thought the problem was that the white wire only produced but 0.5 amps?

    I don't see a huge overload happening with a 3 watt bulb / LED; particularly while running a rear light too.

    I will give the setup a roll just as soon as I have time.

    "it's all about the time - lol - not the cash"

    PS - anybody have a problem with chain vs. tire clearance on a Schwinn cruiser (typhoon)? - See my other post.

    BTW - it seems that posting in this section gets less attention than the general section..... maybe it's just me...?
  14. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    well, it's actually planned that way...this is a specific-problem Q & A section, clutter isn't encouraged. we've left this here because the topic contains answers & *new* ideas about a very common issue. trust me, this topic gets its fair share of views on average.

    this is really good stuff, keep it up...the gearhead in me HAS to find a way to make the white-wire system work 8)
  15. SlicerDicer

    SlicerDicer Guest

    I am curious as I do not like the idea of mucking with batteries of any form. Are you talking about pulling off the magneto?
  16. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    Cool - thanks
  17. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Hey DC, I wonder if you ran the white wire through a DC to DC trickle charger and then to battery, if that would take care of any overload?
  18. dr_clabo

    dr_clabo Guest

    Hey DC, I wonder if you ran the white wire through a DC to DC trickle charger and then to battery, if that would take care of any overload?

    Ingenious idea and concept. Give it a roll and post report - I am anxious to see the results.

    As stated here and by others:

    "If a zener regulator was desired, so be it for the consummate techs".

    Hope that will help,
  19. npk1977

    npk1977 Guest

    I don't understand why you put the battery there? The traditional solution to this kind of problem is to put a big, honkin' capacitor after the diode rectifier. Look at the examples on this page: In particular, look at "Transformer + Rectifier + Smoothing." The ~smoothing~ stage is a capacitor.

    As soon as I get my bike I'm going to mess around with the electrical and see what I can get out. I've got an oscilloscope, so that should really help!

    take care
  20. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Npk, you sound like you know what you are talking about. Would you use a regular bridge rectifier with zener's and if so how many Mfd's on the Capacitor for the filter? By looking at your pics what would be the final regulater? A smaller DC bridge or a wound adjustable coil for resistance with one diode for the trickle charge?
    I'm interested know. Let us know what you can work out on the scope and then if you have it working good PLEASE leave us the layout in laymens terms so that we can go to Radio Smack and get the parts.

    I know it is going to take some time so from all of us to you -HURRY UP we are anxious.