Bike runs while idling.

Ryno

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May 8, 2011
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There is a laundry list of things wrong with my bike at this point, but I'm trying to take it one thing at a time. The thing that I'm trying to figure out is:

Why does my bike start to accellerate when I'm not even pulling the throttle? Is this a problem with the throttle or with the carb? The only way that I can get a sufficient amount of acceleration is by not pulling the throttle at all... I'm confused.

Here are the current (unrelated) problems with my bike:
Kill switch doesn't work (button is broken, and the electrical stuff didn't work before either)

The reducer ring in the carb is broken, I'm using a makeshift one out of rubber because I don't know the size of the ring to order a new one

The carb is constantly tipping over because it's not a good enough fit on the makeshift ring.
 
Also, when the engine is running and I pull the clutch, the engine revs up really fast as if I was pulling the throttle while the clutch was engaged.
 
There is a laundry list of things wrong with my bike at this point, but I'm trying to take it one thing at a time. The thing that I'm trying to figure out is:



Why does my bike start to accellerate when I'm not even pulling the throttle? Is this a problem with the throttle or with the carb? The only way that I can get a sufficient amount of acceleration is by not pulling the throttle at all... I'm confused.

Chances you have a vacuum leak, somewhere.

Here are the current (unrelated) problems with my bike:
Kill switch doesn't work (button is broken, and the electrical stuff didn't work before either)

If it "electrical" doesn't work, how are you running the engine? If your electrical isn't working, the bike won't start. Maybe you need to explain.

The reducer ring in the carb is broken, I'm using a makeshift one out of rubber because I don't know the size of the ring to order a new one

That's easy...measure it.

The carb is constantly tipping over because it's not a good enough fit on the makeshift ring.

Gee I guess that's because it is not mounted properly.

Also, when the engine is running and I pull the clutch, the engine revs up really fast as if I was pulling the throttle while the clutch was engaged.

Term is clutch is DISENGAGED. If the clutch is engaged, the engine would most likely stall out.

Boy that was simple.
 
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I meant the electrical elements of the kill switch only.

And what should I do about this "Vaccum Leak" situation?
 
I'm sorry that I'm not an expert on terminology and motored bikes. if I was, the chances are I wouldn't be here asking for help.
 
I meant the electrical elements of the kill switch only.

And what should I do about this "Vaccum Leak" situation?

First of all you NEED to fix the mounting on the carburetor, I KNOW it's leaking there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuCUmQ9FxMU

Places of possible leaks.
1. Carburetor/intake gasket
2. Seals
3. Cylinder to base gasket
4. Case to case gasket.
 
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Ok thanks. This is something I've been struggling with... how should I measure out the nylon piece? The sizes are confusing and I don't even know what to measure it with/how to measure it.

Not to mention that the piece that I have is broken and thinned out anyway.
 
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Ok thanks. This is something I've been struggling with... how should I measure out the nylon piece? The sizes are confusing and I don't even know what to measure it with/how to measure it.

Not to mention that the piece that I have is broken and thinned out anyway.

Truly un (@@@@@@@)....believable. Truthfully, I think you need to sell your bike.
 
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Well that was awful rude. I appreciate the help that you've provided to me but if you are just going to be arrogant and abusive then stay out of my threads.
 
Post a Picture. It would help us help you. Sounds like you need a new intake tube. Make sure you have the slide in the carb inserted in the correct position.
 
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