Bike Trailer

The bigger wheel would be better for bumps, but I think I'd like two.
The rear suspension swing-arm is a good idea, too.
Standard, the spring would be too stiff, but a weak spring could replace it.

Just had a thought, I've got a few dampers with built-in springs from some heavy duty printers that I bought brand new as surplus a few years ago. They have about 3-4" of travel, but are fairly stiff. If I set up a cantilever arm, adjustable to double or even triple the travel for varying loads, I'd be in the ballpark. The damping seems right, low on extension, tighter on compression.

These were very expensive printers/scanners, intended for the post office for printing stamps and receipts etc, but the Govt changed their mind and sold them as surplus. (They were $1600 ea to the govt, but they sold them for $40 ea. 1200 printers. Just under $2,000,000 down the drain.)
No wonder our economy is in trouble in Oz.

The main body of the printer pivoted upwards for service, with the shocks to hold it up and then to slow the downward travel afterwards to avoid damage. They'd be almost perfect. Thanks for getting my brain thinking in the right direction. (These printers had half a dozen top-notch stepper motors in each, along with timing belts etc, that's why I really bought them.) I've been wondering for years what to do with the shocks.

... Steve
 
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either tell me i'm crazy or tell me to go for it

wow, lots of great trailer info here...consider me a noob in this thread...and thank you to everyone who posted the single-wheel info...

RE: my pending tour...camping wherever i find myself...is having 600W of ready-power worth the extra weight?

Mvc-017f.jpgMvc-019f.jpg

the gennie is a 1984 McCulloch "Mac Power-Pac 600E" like new. AC=120V/4.2A, DC=12V/8.3A...it's bottom-heavy and recovers from a pretty extreme tilt with no problem.

the frame is just a small "v-brake" MTB...the v-brake part is crucial to this project.

the suspension is a "shockster"...it mounts to the drop-outs and brake-studs...more here: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=16158&highlight=shockster

the wheel is from an '82 AMF moped...size "16-2"...and the hub exactly matches my bike's hubs, even has the complete drum-brake. however, i need to find a tire & tube before i can move forward...or of course i'll consider just getting a heavy-duty 20" wheel/tire if consensus from you trailer-pro's says this is worth doing.

i'll use a "Yak" style hitch, easily done with existing anchor points on my frame.

whenever i'm not getting electric with my campsite, or i'm "squatting" somewhere remote, or just during a wayside lunch break...it would serve to keep my electrics/electronics charged, run a 4-cup coffee-maker in the morning, etc...one .6 gal tankful completely charges my lighting setup...no crazy full-time mad-scientist stuff, just filling in when i need it.

and obviously i can get a bit more out of my backpack and lash it to the trailer.

so, am i crazy, or is having this worth the time and effort?
 
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If for nothing else than getting some of that stuff off your back it will be worth it.

Towing a trailer changes the handling dynamics a bit but not enough to worry about. I have a 1000w 48v trailer setup that really gets the job down around town over here across the river. Rode it to Seaside last night via the L&C road with a little mainline thrown in along the way. But rode my fuel bike back this a.m.. They are both good ways to get around. Beats driving the bum van.
 
looking at it this morning...

i've already decided i'm building it...it just makes too much sense...even if i don't bring the generator i'm still going to build it.

mabman, i don't expect a handling problem, it's all lined up so very nicely and i have solid non-axle hitch-points ready to go...boy i'm pumped to try this, i should be able to go backpack-free if i find the right container/bin to build around :cool:
 
the generator weighs 42lbs, the shockster can handle a 120-205lb rider...
i can get a tire & tube for the wheel, so i consider it worth a try.

gonna need some more cut-off wheels.

11' total length:
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this is my first shot at the geometry...
the "headtube" angle has me baffled.
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if someone wouldn't mind, i'd really appreciate some input here about tracking :rolleyes:
 
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I built 3 or 4 of these things based on the Yak hitch, so I can give you a few things I've found.....for what it's worth. First, it seems to work better with a bigger wheel.....pulls easier and rides smoother. Yours should be good. Second, mount your attachment points as close to the axle as you can. The Yaks mounted to the axle, so I have one set up like that. I also have one set up with flat welded to the stays going to the seat. The last one has two pieces of flat with two holes in each. One is a 3/8 hole that goes under the axle nut, and the other is I think a 7/16 hole that has a 1 1/2 bolt going through it. The bolts each have a nut on each side of the flat forming kind of a stud for the hitch to attach to. All work well, but it seems to affect handling less the closer it attaches to the axle.

One thing I was concerned with that isn't a problem is what kind of angle the pivot should be at. I tried some with a forward angle, backward angle, and vertical. Vertical works as good as any. I thought it might trail better if it were angled so that gravity would tend to straighten the rig out, but it wasn't noticeable. A plus to that is that if you jacknife the rig, it will stand without the stand down.

One more thing I discovered is to not make it longer than it has to be. I built one using the drivetrain from a 50cc Honda scooter in a 18 inch wide frame of one inch square tubing. It was over 5 1/2 feet long with 4 feet of cargo area. With that length to width ratio, and the power of the scooter it would flex the trailer frame enough to affect the bike. This is definitely wretched excess compared to what you have, but something to keep in mind. Other than that...go for it.

Gee, you have a genset.....a trailer......now if you had a hubmotor for the JATO effect to get over the hills......:unsure::sick::giggle:
 
thank you denny!

i had guessed it would be best to have my mounting well-above the loads' COG, which is actually quite low...

but i can easily utilize this exisiting gap on the axle:
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a brass-pipe "bushing" over the nut, then a yak-style "drop & lock" mount. opinions?

the stays will get an xtra cross-bracing to address flex, and i can shorten the trailer up a lot if a vertical steer-tube doesn't affect tracking.

there is in fact a nice electric moped kit that would work without the shockster, but the suspension is the only reason i'm willing to try and drag the genset with me. i'm going to drop down a drive-gear on the GEBE and use a smaller chain-ring for pedaling...after all, it's not how fast but how far, eh?

thanks again buddy :cool:
 
yes, steve, that's a consideration...if brass won't do it, something will. perhaps some heater-hose on the nut, then the pipe over that? i don't intend for the bushing to rotate, the hitch itself will instead.

thanks :)
 
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