Bike worth motorizing?

Good idea...now I'm thinking of fixing this up as a road bike and going with some other mtb...not sure though.
Cruisers and 1990s MTBS lend themselves most easily to motorization. The geometry is more relaxed, clearances between parts more generous, so if you want to make the process go as smoothly as possible, pick one like that.
Steel frames are better than aluminum, because they'll handle the additional stress much better and are actually worth fixing should they ever break.
Don't use a suspension seat post on a bike you're going to pedal, your ankles, knees and possibly back won't like it.
 
Cruisers and 1990s MTBS lend themselves most easily to motorization. The geometry is more relaxed, clearances between parts more generous, so if you want to make the process go as smoothly as possible, pick one like that.
Steel frames are better than aluminum, because they'll handle the additional stress much better and are actually worth fixing should they ever break.
Don't use a suspension seat post on a bike you're going to pedal, your ankles, knees, and possibly back won't like it.
That's why you get an adjustable tension suspension seat post. Mine is adjusted to where when seated my knee is at a slight bend when the pedal is in its lowest position. If I do hit a bump the post and forks absorb it instead of my lower back.
 
So, would it be worth moving the motor from the cranbrook to this thing? Beach cruisers sure look nice but I'm worried about destroying it.
 
That's why you get an adjustable tension suspension seat post. Mine is adjusted to where when seated my knee is at a slight bend when the pedal is in its lowest position. If I do hit a bump the post and forks absorb it instead of my lower back.
It's not about the bumps, it's about bobbing up and down slightly during power transfer (aka pedaling), which strains muscles and tendons in ways they were not designed for and can lead to problems over time.
It also saps some of that power, it's like pedaling a couch.....
Similar applies to riding a suspension bike on pavement.
 
It's not about the bumps, it's about bobbing up and down slightly during power transfer (aka pedaling), which strains muscles and tendons in ways they were not designed for and can lead to problems over time.
It also saps some of that power, it's like pedaling a couch.....
Similar applies to riding a suspension bike on pavement.
I was on a pedal-only forum for 10 years before the forum shut down. You are correct in that if it's a Road Bike then suspension systems and wide tires will decrease the efficiency of the pedal power to produce speed. The OP said he wanted to trail ride where suspension systems will actually increase speed due to keeping the tires in contact with the ground.

However, suspension systems and wide tires do little to harm your body. What does body damage is the wrong frame size for your body and/or a bicycle that hasn't been properly adjusted for your particular body build.
 
I'm thinking since it's a road bike at heart I will put roadier wheels on it. I have 700c ones with drum and 3 spd I could put on it.
 
And then look elsewhere for motorbike upgrades. I'll either add suspension to the cranbrook and hopefully better brakes, or get a quality mtb to motorize on craigslist.
 
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