Howzit Everyone,
I would like to share with ya'all my experiences and opinion of the Block Head.
When the Block head first came out I heard some bad reports.
That the Block Head was too thick the cooling fins were too short and it ran too Hot.
It was suggested by a respected member to have the cooling fins milled taller. So I sent one out to have the cooling fins milled taller.
I paid $45 + shipping. I noticed some casting voids the milling uncovered. I Shaved the Head .150"th to make it High Compression.
This uncovered more casting voids in the combustion area. I prayed they didn't go all the way through.
I ran the Head and yes the voids were leaking combustion gasses. The Head was now a paper weight.
I decided not to try and weld the all the leaking voids there were too many voids to chase.
My Block Head would have been fine if I didn't have it milled.
I suggest not to mill the Block Head cooling fins taller.
I suggest to Shave the Block Head .150"th and make it a High Compression Head. Make some Power.
I ordered a new Block Head. I did not have the cooling fins milled taller. I shaved .150"th off and made it High Compression.
I ran the Head in 100* heat all summer. I was expecting the Block Head to melt down. Nope it performed great.
Sure the Block Head runs a little hotter but not too hot. It's a MYTH the Block Head dose not run too Hot.
Block Heads weak spot
When the Block Head was new I inspected it. I noticed a weak spot by the left rear bolt hole. It's thin there around .040'th.
I ran the Block Head for around 5,000 miles and then it cracked at the weak spot the left rear bolt hole.
I welded it. No fear of that spot ever cracking again. I also raised the left rear bolt hole height. I trust in the Block Head now.
I'll never understand why Taiwan Minds designed the Block Head the way they did. Taiwan Specs - Close Enough is Good Enough
Reproduction High Fin High Compression Heads for the NE-5
The Block Head looks kinda modern. It's not as cool looking as the Reproduction High Fin High Compression Heads.
I bought 3 Reproduction High Fin High Compression Heads from 2 different people. I paid $175 each and all 3 Heads were different.
All 3 Heads cracked within 2,000 to 3,000 miles. All 3 Heads cracked in the same spot. By the spark plug hole.
I welded each Head and within 1,000 miles all 3 Heads cracked again right next to the weld.
It's not worth it to try and weld them a third time. I now have 3 very expensive paper weights.
Stock Block Head Combustion Chamber Depth is .465"th Shave Block Head .150"th = .315"th Now High Compression Head.
Burn 91+ Octane Fuel. or it might have Knock and Ping - Air fuel mixture igniting before spark on compression stroke.
Pictures are of the Milled Block Head and casting voids, Block Heads weak spot, Welding repairs and combustion chamber depths.
I hope this info can help someone
ALOHA Wrench
I would like to share with ya'all my experiences and opinion of the Block Head.
When the Block head first came out I heard some bad reports.
That the Block Head was too thick the cooling fins were too short and it ran too Hot.
It was suggested by a respected member to have the cooling fins milled taller. So I sent one out to have the cooling fins milled taller.
I paid $45 + shipping. I noticed some casting voids the milling uncovered. I Shaved the Head .150"th to make it High Compression.
This uncovered more casting voids in the combustion area. I prayed they didn't go all the way through.
I ran the Head and yes the voids were leaking combustion gasses. The Head was now a paper weight.
I decided not to try and weld the all the leaking voids there were too many voids to chase.
My Block Head would have been fine if I didn't have it milled.
I suggest not to mill the Block Head cooling fins taller.
I suggest to Shave the Block Head .150"th and make it a High Compression Head. Make some Power.
I ordered a new Block Head. I did not have the cooling fins milled taller. I shaved .150"th off and made it High Compression.
I ran the Head in 100* heat all summer. I was expecting the Block Head to melt down. Nope it performed great.
Sure the Block Head runs a little hotter but not too hot. It's a MYTH the Block Head dose not run too Hot.
Block Heads weak spot
When the Block Head was new I inspected it. I noticed a weak spot by the left rear bolt hole. It's thin there around .040'th.
I ran the Block Head for around 5,000 miles and then it cracked at the weak spot the left rear bolt hole.
I welded it. No fear of that spot ever cracking again. I also raised the left rear bolt hole height. I trust in the Block Head now.
I'll never understand why Taiwan Minds designed the Block Head the way they did. Taiwan Specs - Close Enough is Good Enough
Reproduction High Fin High Compression Heads for the NE-5
The Block Head looks kinda modern. It's not as cool looking as the Reproduction High Fin High Compression Heads.
I bought 3 Reproduction High Fin High Compression Heads from 2 different people. I paid $175 each and all 3 Heads were different.
All 3 Heads cracked within 2,000 to 3,000 miles. All 3 Heads cracked in the same spot. By the spark plug hole.
I welded each Head and within 1,000 miles all 3 Heads cracked again right next to the weld.
It's not worth it to try and weld them a third time. I now have 3 very expensive paper weights.
Stock Block Head Combustion Chamber Depth is .465"th Shave Block Head .150"th = .315"th Now High Compression Head.
Burn 91+ Octane Fuel. or it might have Knock and Ping - Air fuel mixture igniting before spark on compression stroke.
Pictures are of the Milled Block Head and casting voids, Block Heads weak spot, Welding repairs and combustion chamber depths.
I hope this info can help someone
ALOHA Wrench
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