Hey there...:) So we're going to do this one properly..!

Originally, I was going to go with a dedicated board track racer, but this idea became a little too cost prohibitive. With the frames at around $350 USD, that would be almost $500 by the time it got to Oz. And that's not even with the tank. In reality I was probably looking at around $1k AUD just in the frame..!So what I've decided on now is a hybrid street/board track. GT-5 frame with double springer front end, board track style bars and seat set up. Best of both worlds..!

The idea is to have quality parts and running gear throughout, sourced from both bike and motorcycle brands. This thing will be fast so it has to be safe as well - plus it's not exactly legal to be riding these things on the street where I come from.:mad: It will be built around a Fred's Superhammer that I got customised with a 6cc decomp head, 17mm Delorto style PHBG carb, and RM80 exhaust. I live in a flat coastal area at sea level, so it will be turning a 30 or 32T sprocket - see how we go. Thinking of a dark frame colour (gunmetal grey??) that will be offset with anodised gold running gear and parts.

Anyway, here's a list of parts and specs with some photos of goodies I've been sourcing for a few months now. The frame is still around 2 weeks away but the hold up will be the forks. Anyone know where else apart from Bicycle Designer I can source Cuda Double Springer forks from..??!

Cheers
Crisco:)
  • Frame: Alloy GT-2A with pedal stool mount
  • Forks: Cuda Double Springer
  • Bars: Moon cruiser flipped
  • Engine: Fred GT-5 Super hammer 6cc with decomp
  • Carb: 17mm Delorto style PHBG with velocity stack
  • Ignition: Superoo sealed magneto with HD Lighning
  • Exhaust: RM80 Expansion (one in photo is KX80 but it's going on Ebay as it's wrong side)
  • Front Brake: Hydraulic SRAM Guide R 4-piston with SRAM 200mm Centreline rotor. Master cylinder will be swapped to gold anodised moto-x style
  • Crankset: Sugino RD2 Messenger 165mm 44T with sealed BB68
  • Wheels: Custom build by LBS with Novatec disc hubs. QR skewers to be replaced with solid axles
  • Tyres: Kenda Flame 26 x 2.125
  • Chains: KMC710/KMCX9
  • Seat: Leather 3 spring with layed back seatpost
  • Sprocket: Disc brake hub adaptor with 30/32T manic style sprocket
  • Cabling: Jagwire gold braid
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Waiting, waiting..... So many waitings...:(

I have a heap of stuff in transit from MBRebel, the frame being the most important. Last tracking update told me my gear was in Istanbul..?!? Now, last time I checked, Istanbul was definitely NOT enroute from the US to Australia. By the time this frame gets here it will be fluent in 7 bloody languages..!

My bad though... I decided to sort the shipping myself through a budget freight company. I would advise against using a company called IPS, unless you like your gear to be more travelled than yourself..!o_O
 
Waiting... waiting...

Let's put a kill switch in the HD CDI then...

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Will seal it all up with more resin once I know It's firing all good...
 
Has anyone heard of putting spacers under the steer tube to bring the front of the bike higher?
You would need to fashion another bearing cup in your spacer, but sure that could work.

As for a simple 'kill switch', why not not make it a Key Switch?

I rewire the entire ignition system anyway, and just add a Key switch to the CDI.

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It just shorts the back and blue wires like your kill button, but it takes a Key to make it go.
 
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You would need to fashion another bearing cup in your spacer, but sure that could work.

As for a simple 'kill switch', why not not make it a Key Switch?

I rewire the entire ignition system anyway, and just add a Key switch to the CDI.

2_Pantera2Sjs18R-2048.jpg


It just shorts the back and blue wires like your kill button, but it takes a Key to make it go.
Isn't a key switch less simple than a button? It's not as though anyone can start it without getting it rolling, unless you have a pull start a key switch doesn't offer too much protection and sticking a key into the ignition just to shut it off seems a bit excessive, in fact I rarely ever used the key lock on the lightening cdi by sbp, can't say a key is worth the effort...
 
As for a simple 'kill switch', why not not make it a Key Switch?

Yeah I thought about a keyed switch but decided against it. The fact that it can fall out plus water and dust ingress. This thing cost me $4 and is IP65 rated.

Also, Ive read that the shorting of the ignition wires isn't all that great for the coil. Only want a switch that's momentary not "on/off".
 
Yeah I thought about a keyed switch but decided against it.
The fact that it can fall out plus water and dust ingress.
This thing cost me $4 and is IP65 rated.
You want a momentary kill button in or near the throttle.

If you take a spill with the bike on top of you the first thing you need to do is kill the engine.
I know this first hand having had a really bad fall with bike on top me.

Also, Ive read that the shorting of the ignition wires isn't all that great for the coil.
Only want a switch that's momentary not "on/off".
Naw, shorting the ignition to kill the engine doesn't hurt anything.

The keylock ignition is a security measure.
It doesn't stop someone from stealing your bike, it just stops them from ever starting it ;-}
 
Stops them from ever getting it started? A pair of wire cutters and a spare cdi. Probably have it started almost as fast as you could find the keys in your pocket.
 
The key switch idea is novel. But thing is these bikes aren't really heavy if someone wanted to steal it they could just lift it up and toss it in the back of a truck. I have always believed the "a lock keeps an honest person out". If someone really wants to steal your bike they will steal it.

For me I was thinking of a kill switch on the handlebar but I have played around with the idea of a kill switch down below the fuel tank. My only major problem is figuring out where to mount the CDI I want to run. Ive seen some built cheaply and they are housed in what looks like a pill bottle. Others are like the one you have which is in a plastic box. In my eyes a square plastic box doesn't exactly mount good against a round tube. Unless you do some custom grinding to shape the bottom to fit the tube.

For me I was leaning towards mounting the CDI on the seat post tube behind the engine. That way it leaves my forward down tube a bit cleaner looking.
 
Stops them from ever getting it started?
A pair of wire cutters and a spare cdi.
Probably have it started almost as fast as you could find the keys in your pocket.
Hehehe! The only person walking around with a CDI is a fellow builder looking to steal.
Highly unlikely anywhere.

Just to make it even harder I don't run stock wiring from the engine because besides looking great, I get a slight bump in spark power, and the wire colors change to the cdi ;-}
 
Hehehe! The only person walking around with a CDI is a fellow builder looking to steal.
Highly unlikely anywhere.

Just to make it even harder I don't run stock wiring from the engine because besides looking crappy, I get a slight bump in spark power, and the wire colors change to the cdi ;-}

That's why I will be going with cloth wiring as it looks better than ugly plain plastic coated wires.

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...alog_product_gallery/index/id/416271/image/1/

This stuff is $0.70 a foot. They have black with yellow tracer, black with green tracer, and black with red tracer. They also have solid colors like red, yellow, green, blue
 
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