Bogging,Sputtering

[CENTURION]

My 2 stroke engine after a gallon of break-in just won't run correctly. It starts and idles pretty good, hits the mid-band, then sputters and will not hit the top end. It has one of those Walbro carbs set at the factory with those anti-tamper "D" type high and low needle screws, I'm going to try pre-mix non ethanol and seafoam. I really do not want to pull this unit apart. it's new with about 1 hr. of run time. Any ideas?

 

[2speedboi]

Carb adjustments are crucial, I'm high elevation and no factory settings will work here, even the stilh shop in town and I imagine a few other shops adjust settings before a product sale.

Sounds like to much fuel, what's the plug conditions?

If its lean it would cut out and into power band. This would obviously be the H jet setting.
A walboro 669 is a solid replacement for full range adjustment.

My engines are super finicky about fuel, no water AT ALL or you will get bad running issues and sometimes erratic idling.

It's always worth it to pay the extra on high quality fuel that is non ethanol. Research your gas stations.

 

[CENTURION]

Carb adjustments are crucial, I'm high elevation and no factory settings will work here, even the stilh shop in town and I imagine a few other shops adjust settings before a product sale.

Sounds like to much fuel, what's the plug conditions?

If its lean it would cut out and into power band. This would obviously be the H jet setting.
A walboro 669 is a solid replacement for full range adjustment.

My engines are super finicky about fuel, no water AT ALL or you will get bad running issues and sometimes erratic idling.

It's always worth it to pay the extra on high quality fuel that is non ethanol. Research your gas stations.

I used topfuel pre-mix, plug is good, it will make power if I pump the primer bulb, if I stop, it sputters out. Never had a problem with my Echo trimmer or 20 year old Ryobi blower. I probably should did a little more research on these Solo engines, they're used on ice augers and lots of problem reports.

 

[HumanPerson]

is the diaphragm in good shape?

@Karl Snarl will be better suited to help you with this i think.

 

[HumanPerson]

Also you need to have a pulkse pulse thing hose or something i heard so give @Karl Snarl a shout and see wut he says

 

[Karl Snarl]

anti-tamper "D" type high and low needle screws,

Are they capped or soldered?

can I get a pic?

 

[CENTURION]

Are they capped or soldered?

can I get a pic?

I'll try and get a shot, the heads of the screws are shaped like a capital D, you need a small nut driver type tool to adjust them. This engine should run with the factory settings, diaphragm should be OK, the engine has probably 45 min. run time on it. It's a Walbro carb. I have not taken it apart yet, but looking at it, there is a plastic spacer for an intake to the carb and a normal carb gasket, then a large mudflap type gasket. I suspect the carb is bad. I'll have to check, maybe there is some type of warranty ?

 

[2speedboi]

I really would try mixing your own fuel to boot. Never a fan of premixed personally

 

[CENTURION]

I really would try mixing your own fuel to boot. Never a fan of premixed personally

Did that, fresh gas oil. Looking at the schematic for this motor, it's somewhat of an oddball. It uses what looks like a plastic manifold to the head? and a weird 2 gasket intake set-up. Its symptoms indicate an air leak someplace, and I suspect it's the carb, or someplace in that manifold/intake system or both. There is also a weird device on the end of the vent line coming out of the tank, has a foam filter, and little rubber piece in it? It's a shame, this engine was looking promising with 2.5 HP for its size and weight. My bad, should have researched a little more on this one.

 

[Chainlube]

Do those idle screws have caps with a screwdriver slot in them? Those caps can be just popped off. I've done a ton of saws, and I have even replaced a fixed jet carb with an adjustable one.