Boy go fast/engine

Skyliner70cc

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Note: After posting this, I went online and noticed that this vendor now sells engines with the locking clutch lever, roller wrist pin bearing, and bearing wheel tensioner. If clutch and paint issues are improved then my review may no longer be applicable. Please submit your experience with these engines!

I've had the opportunity to purchase two of his engines over the last 3 months.

Here are my general observations:

1. Quick shipping is a plus.
2. First engine was not properly packed and the plastic throttle assembly was (crushed) damaged. Vendor replaced it reluctantly but said he normally requires buyers to file a claim with the shipping company. Shipping company would not have honored the claim if I had. The box was not damaged on the outside.
3. Cheap older style clutch assembly. Yuk! These types NEVER work on amy of my bikes. They can't be depressed sufficiently to lock on my Skyliners or Searcher bikes.
4. Both engines start easily and are VERY smooth. Much less vibration than my older Dax engines. My only comment regarding the engine is that the engine is very sensitive to the choke setting and requires some fiddling with the choke while starting to get it to fire up. I drilled out the hole on the choke plate and opened up the airflow going into the engine. This solved the problem and engine now starts easily on full choke.

5. Clutch: BAD. Unlike Dax engines, the clutch cannot be adjusted properly. To this day, I cannot find an appropriate setting on the cable that allows me to have the clutch engage completely when released and NOT spin the wheel when it is locked into place. I have never had this issue with Dax or Kings motorbike engines. Also, the clutch setting seems to be tempermental and dependent on temperature. On colder days, releasing the clutch lever does not allow 100% positive engagement and clutch slips when starting. On warmer days the opposite is true and locking clutch does not completely allow disengagement. This is a deal breaker for me and the 75 bucks I saved in buying these engines is not worth it in my opinion.

6. Power: First engine power came on quickly with my normal break in procedure and was pulling 25 up hill on a 50 tooth sprocket. Second engine can only muster 17 mph. I'll let you know if things change.

7. Paint: Probably the worst paint quality I have seen in the almost 50 Happy time kits I've purchased over the past several years. If you value a decent paint job on your tank and chain guard, look elsewhere.

Overall comments: Value is offset by the clutch issue, need to buy locking clutch and a true roller bearing chain tensioner and lousy paint job. You get what you pay for.
 
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OK Turbo, what EXACTLY are the differences between the BGF motor and Dax or BlueCollarBikes or Powerking?

This is a question that I have asked repeatedly, yet nobody has a real answer...

I say it's all the same Chinese ****, and I really don't believe anyone modifies it before it's sold. I have personally asked Dax what the differences are, and got an answer about support and warranties - which I RESPECT, but that doesn't really answer the question.

I know some kits come with roller bearings which I personally think are better than bushings, but other than that what is different?

What is a Type 1 motor and what are the other choices?

Not busting balls, but I'd really like to know - everyone has an opinion, but I haven't seen any facts yet.
 
ok well there are 3 grade levels that the factrorys go by

from what i can tell kings motor is a china kit but is a grade 3 dax as well but from some where i dont know but have been told from my supliere that they have the same kits he sells but that seems kinda out ther

now you get down to ebay they tend to be built in thailand or indonesia which come as grade 1 which is what you get when you go big time sellers cheap and quik to build they tend to cut corners on the build

keep in mind its like mabey 10 people who build 1000 kits around the clock and make them in one week

now grubee star fire derringer boygofast are a grade 1 to many corners are cut when being built and to many falts my place says type 3 but im syaing more of a 2 in my book and have proved very good in my book and have tested my self but there kits are from the same man don grubee

never trust the man he dose not inspect the kits at all and he has told me this and tried to correct himself but to late man you just spoke out

powerking has a direct link to a independint factory which runs whith 2-3 others that are indepent also which don hates with a passion

this go's for you to blue collar yo have the same shipper

but this go's for spooky tooth also same make and brand

but that is what i know

any more questions all be glade to answer
 
oh yeah for got to say boygofast is a double agent who works for don and some one else that tend to be crud engines
 
I appreciate the time you took to write that long answer, but I still haven't heard one scientific, mechanical difference that you can specifically point out.

What is better, type 1, 2, or 3? I can't even figure that out from your answer.

I have a BGF motor, and that's the only one I've had so far. I'm certainly not defending him, because I don't know him or anything about him or any other PEOPLE you just mentioned. I don't know who Don is, nor do I understand what Double-Agent means in your reply...and really, what does that have to do with MOTORS?

My questions specifically:
What MECHANICAL differences are there?
Did I buy a motor that performs less than Dax's or Powerking or BlueCollar from BGF?
What are the differences between grade 1, 2, and 3? Materials used? Quality Control? Different parts? Upgraded parts? C'mon, give me some "meat and potatoes" to work with. Something REAL.

What should I look for that would make another HT motor better than what is currently installed on my bike?

The answer above is very unclear, but my question was not.
Why cannot anyone here speak the truth? (VENDORS) We (buyers) can only guess, just like what Turbo seems to be doing.

I actually want to purchase another motor and build another bike, so I'm not trying to stir up the dirt here, I just want to know the FACTS so I can make an intelligent purchase for the best product. And please, don't bring in other types of motors, we're talking about the 70cc (67cc whatever) motors that everyone is selling.

Turbo, I'm not trying to bust on you, but you sound like you might know the answers if I can put the questions to you correctly...

Thanks,
Mark
 
ok diffrence from what i can tell the old school build kings kit was a mold kit not sand cast like ever other kit out there with a alloy rod and light wieght crank with a non aluminum piston like all the rest but they have gone to sand casting on there new kits and are using needle bearings but still keep the light weight crank but run a steal rod thats dax runs a sand cast but runs some sort of special rod and the piston is more stronger then cheap garde aluminum and i am correct the compresion is a bit more from what i have tested but seems to be the same like the rest but trust it to last for almost a year of use

now i have beta tested for powerking and am still kicking with 9k just instaled new piston because i blew the bushing on it and shronk the head like the thats dax kit and am runing any thing from 45-50mph on a 40t but keep in mind my kit is a 1st gen speical edition kit thats why and have found out

if you have a bushing setup on the powerking set it is way faster then a needle setup and will last as long as you dont over rev the kit to tell the truth some kits are good some have problems but at times they all do

now it is a sand cast cheap steal rod and is not balnced like kings or dax but am working on balncing it which rev will then turn from 8-9 to 12 if im correct hard to belive but its the truth now a bad flaw is the motor mounts for dax and powerking but i think they fixed it with the upgraded versions they sell now but i belive that you need to install m6 bolts on all kits

dax boy go fast grubee live fast powerking and so forth its just better to do that and you fill safer

now we get to the good stuff the new kits that powerking have been sending out now can be changed to be used as a needle setup or bushing

reason the bushings that they are sending now are oversized which is the same size as the bearing i have checked and it is true and to tell the truth i would chonk out the bearing after brake in and use bushing trust me its the best way to go but you will be better instatling a new one every 5k or sooner for safety while dax have not gone past 2k before a motormount whent out broke the first 300mil in travel

teeht size and gear the front tooth from the engine verys also like the speical edition pk kit has a 12t unlike the rest which have a 10t but i think they will have themn on ther kits soon

but clutch rod arms have changed also which to all i have felt no diffrence at all and think it is a waist of time can not use in mtb bikes only beach bikes

clutch lever no matter the way you look at it they all do the same thing and are no better then the other so all just levae this one alone

but performace my top of the list kings old school 55cc king of motor bike kits
powerking special edition 48cc with 40t willl run forever
and the thats dax 65 with a 36t on yamalube oil of 4oz to the gallon you can run a 50mph with a person in the 235lbs limit

any more questions to answer just ask
 
well, im a newbie to these engines, but I can say this about my boygofast engine....

1. studs/bolts/ very cheap grade , strip easily....

2. head casting, also very cheap pot metal...in fact, I have a area of my side cylinder, on the outside wall, where its so thin and actually missing metal, that I can see part of the inner cylinder sleeve....NOW THATS CHEAP CASTINGS!


now I dont know if the other enigne selllers have better grade metals then boygofast...


Ive only run about 2 tanks of gas thru my 70 cc boygofast engine, and it seems to run nicely, starts up eaisly...but theres no way in **** it is going at 38 mph with my 230 lb butt on it, on flat road.

They actually made a 2 stroke 50 cc engine at one time, that had a top speed of over 40 mph ?

anyone have any numbers on expected mileage on these boygofast engines, befire the need to be overhauled or have new bearings added?
 
cant tell ya never ran the kit if he gave me one to test out then i could say
 
Section 2268. Motor-assisted vehicle. Notwithstanding any other provision of this chapter, a vehicle which is primarily designed to be propelled by human power shall not be entitled to registration as a limited use vehicle because of the addition of a motor. The commissioner shall determine whether any vehicle is primarily designed to be propelled by human power.
Can someone expain to me what this means.....
i dont fully understand what there saying.:confused:
taken off the ny state website.
 
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