BRAND NEW YD100

[MTBNewf]

@Bobby


"these microscopic shavings will harmlessly adhere to the sticky insides/bottom of your crankcase,..and stay there causing zero harm. but they will be present and still mobile in your crankcase until 3 or 4 heat cycles and your case builds up a thin layer of oily residue that the micro-shavings can stick to and stay stuck to.

but while theyre being produced,..which is the first 3 or 4 times you run the motor,.... take it easy on the screaming rpms because they ARE potentially damaging until they stick to something inside your motor that doesn't move (sticky crankcase walls/floor) im splitting hairs here,...but the more damage you can prevent the better"

can these microshavings not be removed during or after the period they are being produced?

 

[LewieBike]

@Bobby


"these microscopic shavings will harmlessly adhere to the sticky insides/bottom of your crankcase,..and stay there causing zero harm. but they will be present and still mobile in your crankcase until 3 or 4 heat cycles and your case builds up a thin layer of oily residue that the micro-shavings can stick to and stay stuck to.

but while theyre being produced,..which is the first 3 or 4 times you run the motor,.... take it easy on the screaming rpms because they ARE potentially damaging until they stick to something inside your motor that doesn't move (sticky crankcase walls/floor) im splitting hairs here,...but the more damage you can prevent the better"

can these microshavings not be removed during or after the period they are being produced?

They should be exhausted out the exhaust port. I don't think that the bearing wear bits are too much trouble that they need to be cleaned out. Most chrome cylindered weedeaters and chainsaws make small amounts of the break in swarf for lack of a better name.

In the glow model airplane realm most modern 2 stroke glow engines will run a slight amount of metalflake out the exhaust into the exhaust oil as they break-in. The break-im process on these glow engines is considered to be about a half hour or so, they usually run a chrome bore with an unringed aluminum piston that's precision machined to fit tightly at TDC. The oil does most of the sealing.

 

[MTBNewf]

OK.

getting xcited now.
the thing is in transit.
hopefully everything arrives in the correct # of pieces.

I'm having a pipe built for this engine so that's covered.

What else am I likely going to need to replace?

Is the hub adapter worth looking at?

jim

 

[Vikingimike01]

Hub adapter is very worth looking at, to not bend your spokes, wich is very common and happens either way.

 

[MTBNewf]

Hub adapter is very worth looking at, to not bend your spokes, wich is very common and happens either way.

have one to recommend?

why bent spokes either way?
can the adapter not be locked, keyed or set screwed to the hub?

 

[Vikingimike01]

I meant either way as in if you have a strong or weak spokes. It will end up bending either way.

The adapter can be locked, but you will need to really lock it with something. If it starts spinning it will do more damage than a normal sprocket.

 

[LewieBike]

have one to recommend?

why bent spokes either way?
can the adapter not be locked, keyed or set screwed to the hub?

Well depending on where or who built your wheel, most box-store bikes are coming with poorly built wheels.

Most of these engine kits come with a "rag joint" adapter sprocket which bolts through heavy fiber reinforced rubber 'clamps' fitted through the rear wheel's spokes.

Usually not great quality metal in the spokes themselves, the rims are sometimes made of the softest aluminum, and they're machine assembled and don't normally have a final hand truing or tension check over.

So you have the spokes being the weak link in delivering 2.0 plus horsepower to the ground on a wheel designed for human power.

And on these cheap bikes these wheels aren't exactly super great for even human leg power. Anything you can do to make sure the rear wheel holds up to the increase in stress. The best alternative is go with a disc brake sprocket adapter and hub/wheel on a rim brake bike. Have the wheel rebuilt with quality spokes, like DT or WheelSmith stainless steel. It's even better if you can source thicker spokes like 13 or even 12 gauge from a quality spoke maker. Heavier spokes in the special sizes needed are really hard to find. And really expensive for a rear wheel custom built like this.

 

[Vikingimike01]

You forgot, bicycle sprockets also connect to the hub, not the spokes, and the hub diverts the stress to both of the sides of the spokes, and the stock sprocket only connects to one side.

 

[LewieBike]

You forgot, bicycle sprockets also connect to the hub, not the spokes, and the hub diverts the stress to both of the sides of the spokes, and the stock sprocket only connects to one side.

This is true but some of the cheaper disc brake hubs are two piece castings, pressed and glued together and this sort of nullifies any advantage.

That's why I'm saying to the OP.. Buy or have someone who knows what their doing, build a new rear wheel with better parts. The quality of the parts matter.

I built my 48 cc bike's rear wheel from a recycled old Schwinn LeTour hub, and the sprocket bolts through the high flanges lightening holes using bits of the rag joint material cut down to act as isolators. That hub is a Shimano cold forged casting, with high flanges. So the torque loads are lessened on the spokes.

I used Wheelsmith straight 14 gauge spokes, I built the wheel using an Araya rim, I used a Park Tools tensionometer to check for even spoke tension and because I'm an awesome mechanic, I used spoke prep lube on the nipples and used decent spoke wrenches and a Park wheel building stand.

I would trust this wheel to last for several years use as long as I don't abuse it and keep the tire inflated properly

 

[MTBNewf]

This is true but some of the cheaper disc brake hubs are two piece castings, pressed and glued together and this sort of nullifies any advantage.

That's why I'm saying to the OP.. Buy or have someone who knows what their doing, build a new rear wheel with better parts. The quality of the parts matter.

I built my 48 cc bike's rear wheel from a recycled old Schwinn LeTour hub, and the sprocket bolts through the high flanges lightening holes using bits of the rag joint material cut down to act as isolators. That hub is a Shimano cold forged casting, with high flanges. So the torque loads are lessened on the spokes.

I used Wheelsmith straight 14 gauge spokes, I built the wheel using an Araya rim, I used a Park Tools tensionometer to check for even spoke tension and because I'm an awesome mechanic, I used spoke prep lube on the nipples and used decent spoke wrenches and a Park wheel building stand.

I would trust this wheel to last for several years use as long as I don't abuse it and keep the tire inflated properly

KK

I have a Deore hubs and Mavvic or Sun rims on both my mtbs.
I run good wheels/tires.

So I should source a cheapo disk capable rear wheel?
I may consider a custom wheel in time depending on how this goes.

Jim