Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
Can a stripped out exhaust stud hole be filled by brazing and retapped out?
Brazing exhaust stud holes?
- Thread starter Sumsloppymeet
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Spare_Parts
Well-Known Member
Brazing rods and flux for aluminum cost about $50 to get started. Search for muggy weld super alloy 5.
Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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I like the Vulcan brand braze kits, you can do all sorts of aluminum and even cast iron with them, best part is the flux is the secret ingredient, once it bubbles it's time to dip the rod and finish the wet, pull off and you're done, clean with a wet rag.
Practice makes perfect, have fun making a few mistakes and melting scrap aluminum by mistake untill you get the jist. I second helicoils, you can get a nice kit with plenty of spare coils in M6 and you'll be able to fix cylinders, often without having to completely remove the engine from the bike, the cylinder can remain bolted to the rest of the engine! What ever floats your boat.
Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
yea my helicoils keep pulling out on me whhen i torque them down with this one cylinder ii was thinking of cutting a small gap behind the hole cut the fins away far enough i can slip a small nut a bolt in there maybe im just toying around seeing what i can do with old used parts
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
That's what it's all about.
Perhaps you can drill a very small (2.5mm?) hole from the side, make a hole near the end of the stud too, and then you can put the stud in the stripped hole and secure it with a fine bolt or rod going straight through.. Red loctite on everything and it should hold. This would leave more of the cylinder material to prevent cracking or bending than would the slot and nut.
The torque needed to keep the exhaust gasses from leaking is not much. The torque needed to stop the nut shaking loose is greater, but it is isolated from the cylinder if you double nut (hold the first nut with a thin wrench so it doesn't turn when you torque the second nut down on top of it).
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bike4life
Well-Known Member
Might sound ghetto but maybe c clamp the exhaust plate to the other side of the engine or rig something with threaded rod pushing from the frame through the hole and exhaust which can be tightened via a nut. Why does it have to be brazed, just rethread it w/ next size tap
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
One reason to not use an M8 stud (M7 is rare and I'm not sure even is a different enough size to make the new thread) is that the nuts which will be needed to secure the muffler will be difficult or impossible to turn because of the proximity to the muffler header.
bike4life
Well-Known Member
True.
Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
i ended up having to tap up in size lol darn aluminum so soft lol but i had to helicoil one of em to 8mm i had the hole so damn screwed up oops but i got some goood looking 8mm holes now look dead center of the hole for a stock exhaust just need to drill out the exhaust hole to match
