Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Guest, Mar 8, 2007.

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How do you break in?

  1. Baby it to the extreme...

  2. Ride it like ya' stole it!

  3. What's that?

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    The following is my own break-in proceedure. I have broken in several 2 and four stroke engines including some ultralight aircraft 400cc+ two strokes.
    I am not a certified expert, but I do have some knowledge with engines and the interviening 35 years of playing with them.

    Having said that, I'll also say I haven't got one of the two prevalent Chinese manufactured engines just yet, but the following info pertains to most engines in general.

    Break-in is a combination of heat cycling parts and allowing the rings to seat. This is taken care of by riding at moderate speeds followed by short periods of wide open throttle. Wide open throttle is necisary to seat the rings to bore properly. I saw a rather spirited discussion about this on the forums...this is not that kind of post.

    A couple of observations- I see reading the forums that a lot of people are finding that these engines run better if the carbs are adjusted, and the intake gaskets are in order. If I were to break-in one of these (dax) e-bay engine, I would go ahead and set the carb and check the gaskets first. More on that later.

    Another one is that the engines are suggested to be broken in with a 20/1 fuel mix. That's crazy, but I understand warranty issues. I'll just say use a good two stroke oil like Penzoil for 2 stroke air cooled engines, or one of the name brand synthetics (available at places like Wal-Mart in the lawn and garden/chainsaw/weedwacker area) and mix it in the 40 or 50/1 area AFTER BREAK IN.
    If the carb is correctly set and the intake gasket(s) in order, begin break in....

    To do an easy and proper break in, warm the engine until it will run with no choke then start down the road. Open the throttle to 1/4-1/3 and let it pick up speed for about 10 seconds, now back off the throttle and let it coast for about 10 seconds. Do that a few times. Next open it up to 1/2-3/4 throttle and let is gain speed for about 10 seconds, repeting the slowing proceedure as well. Do that several times then take it up to full throttle and let it gain speed for about 20 seconds, taking approx 30 seconds to decellerate each time. Increase the time you spend at WOT and decellerating until you are holding it wide open for longer than 30 seconds and you are about done.

    Ride at moderate speeds with short runs of WOT until break in mileage is completed. You should notice an improvement in power and smoothness during the break in proceedure, and a gradual increase in performance for the next 100 miles or so.

    Questions and comments are welcomed!

  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I thought for sure I'd get a comment or two!
  3. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    at least I voted :)

    I am on my 2nd 70cc and am trying to go easy but vary the throttle
    but 1st have to get my carb working right
  4. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    don't sweat it joe, the break-in issue is a hot one, you'll get responses, maybe more than you want :evil:

    btw, you didn't add our trademark "i don't vote in polls" option :p
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Hey, gimme a break, I'm new around here!
  6. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Hey, I did ONE pole, had to pull in a day ! EEEEEK.

    Somebody ELSE stated it best - Simple Air, Spark, Fuel

    Only speaking w/ 40 weedwhakers and ONE 40 cc experience, 3 things are most important.

    1. Never forget the oil in the fuel, citykids without landscaping backgrounds may forget this cardinal rule, stuck hundreds of miles from the house, thinking "oh, a little siphoned gas from this pickup won't hurt." Manufacturer specs are best reference, STIHL does a warranty check on chainsaws and such, if you use WallyWorld Oil, they know it.....

    2. The purpose of "break in" is to seat the rings, and there is a definite "point" where you know it worked. Weedwackers take about 150 miles. SOMEBODY ELSE said it best: It has to do with "compression".

    3. The only "other" goofs you can do to FUEL are "water/moisture", diesel substitution.

    The BEST preventative is to treat your bike/engine like your own personal horse, don't let others ride him/her.

    4. (I Knew I missed one, thx BikerJoe in the 'other' breakin topic), Let the engine warm up, idle for a bit, before jumping on and hitting the throttle.
  7. spunout

    spunout Member

    break in procedure

    Dont forget bicycle break-in, too. after installing the kit, every so often step off the bike and tighten everything down.
    once the bike gets over the initial 'wtf is this?'you'll need to do it less often.
    i just ruined a good wheel, because i neglected to tighten the spokes.
  8. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    rotflmbo. :grin::lol: That couldn't be more true. Seems my bike gets more solid every day and I trust it a little more.

    I admit there are some days when I get home from work tired and worn out and don't let my friend warm up. I pedal till it starts and don't shut it off till we get home. That's good advice, I'll let it warm up.
  9. mickey

    mickey Guest

    True that. I seems every problem I've had had followed someone else taking the bike out for spin. I'm wondering wth they do with it when out of my sight.
  10. mickey

    mickey Guest

    This post randomly shows up as a New Post even though nothing has been added. db problem maybe. Perhaps this post will fix it.
  11. drimpact

    drimpact Member

    It has to do with the poll question. Whenever anyone votes it is considered a post and moves up the queue
  12. mickey

    mickey Guest

    Ah, thank you. I keep going there and my old post was the last one.

    Which, I guess, will be true again now.
  13. I voted # 3 because I thought it was the compromise between #1 and #2....I ride it moderately hard while breaking in....not too easy....not too crazy.
  14. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    it shows as a new post when someone votes in the poll as well as when someone makes a new post
    all polls will do that
  15. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I think your comments are sound.

    My .04$ (inflation) is twofold:

    1) Break-in does not mean baby it. Of course first warm the engine up to operating temps, but getting on it pretty good, once warm, will harm nothing and indeed will help prevent cylinder glazing.

    2) On 2 strokes - I don't understand the 20:1 for break-in and then changing to 50:1 (or whatever) either. There really isn't a need for such an oil rich mix - especially with the good oils. You'll just have oil drool, chances of fouling plugs, gumming the rings, etc. I suppose a little oil rich (30:1) might help with the wear materials in a lower quality engine. I've broken plenty of 2 strokes in at 50:1, 80:1, 100:1.
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2007
  16. Sockmonkey

    Sockmonkey Guest

    I wonder about the oil mix as I just won one of the kits from Dax on Ebay.

    I question the idea of a thin mix due to the quality of the engines. I have a feeling the metal / tooling isn't up to the level of a Japanese engine... And the only other lower quality engine I've been around was an old British Seagull boat motor that thrived on a 10 (or 15) / 1 mix! (the suggested mix by the manufacturer)

    When Calif went to the 50/1 mix requirement for small engines I was working in a local hardware store. There was a bit of confusion so we called a manufacturer about what they were doing different to the CA engines compared to the rest of the States... They responded "nothing"! They just changed the wording in the brochure... They also said that a thin mix in a high quality engine was actually better for it.

    So, back to the question... Has anybody had personal experience with one of the Chinese engines either gum-up from too much oil, or burn up from too little???

    Thanks for any input... PS, has any one else noticed that Dax is putting together a 50CC 4-stroke kit! I will be interested in seeing how these turn out.
  17. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    I ran my engine rich at full throttle for 30 minutes straight on my engine's first start. Engine load was varied by going up and down hills at full throttle. It was 40 degrees out when I road the engine so it didn't get too hot but did get to temperature. After a cople of hours of use, I will lean the mixture out by lowering the needle clip once notch.

    I figure this method worked well for my 2 stroke golf cart engine and all of my 2 stroke powertools and should work for my Dax engine.
  18. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    What kind of mixture ratio have you been using?
  19. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    I'm running 5 oz of Bakers AA castor per gallon of gas. Once I get a couple hundred miles on the engine, I will probably blend the fuel with mostly synthetic oil and a whisper of castor. I'm using pure castor because I want the castor to coat the engine bearings with that (in)famous castor varnish coat which is self lubricating, protects against rust, and helps a little with compression by coating the cylinder. Too much castor varnish buildup is not good which is why I'll switch later on down the road.
  20. retrophoto

    retrophoto Guest

    Break in has always been a mechanic's mystery to me. I had a motor rebuilt once. When I complained about oil consumption I was told it had to break in. It never did.

    I got my motor running yesterday for the first time. I rode it after a little warm up (to the point of no choke) and found that I couldn't really run it at low throttle all the time. I ran it mostly at low throttle but had to kick it up to climb a couple of hills. I'm glad to hear some of you say that it won't blow the engines, since it's going to be that way the whole time. About ten percent of my time will be climbing hill with wot. I can keep it down the rest of the time.

    Ps.... see i do use search usually I have a specific question so it doesn't always help but this time it did.