Break In Break it in!

I

istbenz

Guest
about the break-in period. i've pretty much just been riding around on campus and i've run about half a tank through at 'polite' engine rpm's- how long do i need to be 'nice' to the engine? i'm just dying to open it up and ride for an hour. the paper work that came from dax said to take it easy for the first 500 miles. i don't even drive 500 miles in the car in a year! does this sound unreasonable to anyone else?

also, has anyone besides dax opened up the muffler and modified it? i'm interested in increasing engine output and was wondering if it is worth all the extra noise.

gimme your input.

later :D
 
500 miles is what I was told by many people, but that just seems like way too many.

I personally probably went through 2 or so tanks of gas before I started revving it high and going on long trips.

I modified my muffler. It became a little louder, but the power increase was substantial. The noise increase wasnt that much, and it still is quiter than my motorcycles. I would recommend it.
 
excellent! i shall begin the muffler operation tomorrow afternoon :devilish:

anyone else have input on the break in period?

when i worked on aircraft engines the old guys always said how back in the day you had to break 'em in at low rpm. when i was breaking them in a few years ago, they said run 'em at high rpm's and keep it constant- that is don't futz with the throttle. so that's what i know!
 
What I was told about the 40 cc engine (which is different than the 25 cc I favor) is that you are "seating the cylinder" during the breakin.

The first two tanks I held a medium speed about 15-30 seconds, then up a quarter, back a half, in other words, varying the speeds and not holding it in any particular speed longer than 30 seconds.

The third tank I held speeds for more prolonged times, in the 5-10 minute range, then down a half, up a bit, etc.

Now, after about 10 tanks (300 miles or so) I can feel it gaining strength, just pulling the steep hill below my house quicker and easier each time.
 
Hi guys and thank you Tom for setting up this forum. Some of you may reconize me from other forums, I have been around for a little while but by no means an expert, lol. From what I have been told by respected members in the moto world and it has worked for me on six bikes so far is: I do my inital start with a heavy 20:1 natural mix, run maybe a cup full through and then switch to a natural oil mix of 32:1 and take it easy for the first gallon or so. After that run it like you stole it if you are wanting to run synthetic it is ok to do so, I run 40:1 synth. This is not the "recomended" break in, it is what I have done on all of my bikes and they are all fine. Just my .02...Kelly
 
Cookie: What motor are you running and what break in technique did you use? I know you have spoken highly of proper break in technique, and seem to have more patience with this than some other riders do.
I'm breaking in an 80cc dax right now. I've been running around 20 for about 40 miles, going easy on 'er and varying the throttle as much as I can (and of course 16:1). I've snuck up on 22mph accidently while on a slight decline but disengaged the engine and let 'er come back down a bit.
I am willing to be patient, but is 500 really necessary? Is there a common consensus that the break in can be done properly without having to ride it for months with a painfully restrained throttle hand?
Will there really be a noticable difference between the 300 and 500 mile mark during the break in?
Augi: how many miles did you have on your first engine? What were your observations throughout the miles?

I just have the sneaking suspicion that if i am all alone on a country road with 300 on the break in I may not be able to control than darn right hand...."noone is looking....they'll never know...."

Maybe I just need someone to tell me that the two-stroke gods will strike me down if I get the throttle itch...no questions asked.
 
After you have riden for a while with the bike parked or while riding, spit on your fingehr and see if it bubles (sizzles) when you touch the side of the cylinder head fins. Water boils at 212 degrees. Most RC car engines are tested in this manner. If your spit boils, try slowing down or letting the engine cool. You will find on new motors run hard, the spit will almost turn to steam. You will feel a bubbling sensation on your finger tip when touching the cylinder head.

There is an alternate method that I have been using recently. Go to your local hobby store that sells RC gas car/truck engines. They usually sell a digital temperature (heat) gage for about $30 on sale. The name brand is Duratrax sold through Tower Hobbies.
 
i had 110mi when the head-bolt popped out, i thought i had broken it in ok, but, with the new one, i too suffer from some serious self-restraint issues. since it was my 1st engine, i have no reference point, but i think i should have done a lil more slow-hand'ing.

i'm gonna do 20mph for the first tank (60-80 miles?) of 20:1, then 30mph for the next tank at 20:1, then i'm gonna cut loose...maybe i should sacrifice an old weedeater to the 2-stroke gods, eh?
 
I appreciate the info augi but I'm not sure if you are helping! :)
(now when i'm alone on that road i'll think "well augidog did")
I don't think I want to be the one to make the observations of what happens between 300 and 500, but I'll go easy on her for a while and try to keep that monk-mindstate of patience.
And thank you for the temp info, I don't feel inclined to touch the fins, but will see how water drops respond.
 
i did forget to add, tho, that at 100 miles i was getting superb performance, easy starts, no leaks or noises, the engine was in excellent shape excepting an unexpected mistake during assembly.

my top speed with the mtb tires was 48mph according to my analog speedo :devilish: EDIT: analog speedo was way off, digital shows 26mph

so, with my mucho-improved break-in plan, i'm betting i'll be good to go, maybe i'll get that other 8mph so i can keep up with cookie ;)
 
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