Breaking marriage between piston and cylinder for porting?

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Hey I have a forum member that removed his piston from his jug that's broken in is it true it's bad to pull your piston fully out the sleeve as it could lead to early failure?
 
not that I've ever seen, but rings may need replacement if they've been wearing in same alignment for a long time
 
So no damage or harm is done when dismounting the piston from cylinder... could have sworn it breaks the seal.
I've been taught and believe the rings will un seat. That being said it's a 6 month cylinder, since it needs replacing often enough the damage of unseating isn't worth crying about...
 
yes, if rings will not seat again, then new rings will make a new seat - cylinder plating is thin, but if still fairly new and old rings won't seat, new rings shouldn't hurt it
 
yes, if rings will not seat again, then new rings will make a new seat - cylinder plating is thin, but if still fairly new and old rings won't seat, new rings shouldn't hurt it

Which is why I prefer to pull the wrist pin when considering porting. As to not have to pay for new rings.
 
I've been taught and believe the rings will un seat. That being said it's a 6 month cylinder, since it needs replacing often enough the damage of unseating isn't worth crying about...
When your cheap that's not an option simply one could pull the wrist pin and port the jug upside down with the piston still in it. But I am not sure what effect this would have if the transfers have to be done in porting should one do that with the exhaust and intake ports or shall the transfers be left rough...
 
Which is why I prefer to pull the wrist pin when considering porting. As to not have to pay for new rings.
But even then it's a debate, if you turn the cylinder just a hair then it's not going to be aligned once the crank shifts the piston into place to align it with the rod. I did find that if you put the engine together and manage not to blow it up then there is really very little reason to open it up again. I can understand how the new players want to tear them open, that's how I feel about anything I buy, regardless of what it is.

On a 4 stroke I can see this of being bigger impact, they need opening so rarely that by the time you get to th cylinder it's time for an overbore..
 
When your cheap that's not an option simply one could pull the wrist pin and port the jug upside down with the piston still in it. But I am not sure what effect this would have if the transfers have to be done in porting should one do that with the exhaust and intake ports or shall the transfers be left rough...
Well since it doesn't make sense to port it before starting it for the first time I do it without the piston and I clean the shavings out with water and soap. I highly recommend doing porting first, once you know how to do it at least on this motor.
 
But even then it's a debate, if you turn the cylinder just a hair then it's not going to be aligned once the crank shifts the piston into place to align it with the rod. I did find that if you put the engine together and manage not to blow it up then there is really very little reason to open it up again. I can understand how the new players want to tear them open, that's how I feel about anything I buy, regardless of what it is.

On a 4 stroke I can see this of being bigger impact, they need opening so rarely that by the time you get to th cylinder it's time for an overbore..



Just read arbor site and they where speaking about masen chainsaws they say that there's about 07% gains from porting that's still very minimal at 13k vs our 7-8k so with that standing it would be best just to do bolt on options til it blows the jug at that point, one could buy a new jug with pistons ride 4 tanks then tear it down to do port and polish.


It would be youthful life + the left over bolt on products can be reinstalled after cleaned of course and come out with more power overall.

I know that this can turn a minimum of 10-13k but at that rate you may as well by a blown kit from a Noob of CL TEAR THE HEAD OFF and open up the case for a fraction of the cost.. the motor only sometimes sneak out at $59.00 rarely.

Rather tear into a fresh block which you could do the pre work on a desk test set up on a home made load bench made of a chopped disc brake frame
Run it on a disc brake setup to simulate body weight load via drag.
 
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