Broken front motor mount

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by hooligan, Jan 21, 2010.

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  1. hooligan

    hooligan Guest

    Somehow I have managed to crack the front motor mount where the bolt goes into the motor itself. I have attached a couple pictures to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about. There are two thick washers on it that I'm using as spacers and they are no longer snug up against the motor and when I try to tighten the bolt it spins freely. The whole motor pulls a little to the side now. I think a longer bolt will help because there still seems to be some thread left but I'm afraid that now the the motor is cracked it will only get worse...any ideas? Is bondo strong enough to hold?

    Attached Files:

  2. Don't use bondo, you could use jb-weld.

    You also said that the bolt spins freely in the hole and does not tighten? Then you may need to either get another bolt or rethread the hole larger and get a larger bolt.

    You will want a second opion,cause thats the first time ive seen that happen.
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2010
  3. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Guest

    That bolt was not long enough to use both of those spacers. Note one spacer is the correct size for the engine bolts and the other is the correct size for the clamp. If you needed that much extension you should have used one spacer at each attachment point and not both on one. It is clearly shown in the installation instructions. I think if you reinstall it per the instructions you may be able to save it.

    All you really needed to do was flip the mount around and you would not have needed any spacers at all. Here is a link to the instructions. front mount.pdf
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 22, 2010
  4. joey d

    joey d Member

    I have had good luck with products like this

    I use to use these aluminum alloy rods to fix boat props they worked good.
    you use mapp gas torch burns hotter then propane, propane might work. this product sticks to aluminum but not steel so you can screw a bolt into the hole build up some of the aluminum and when its cool unscrew the bolt leaving the threads molded into the aluminum.

    ps If you have any sticks left you can try your hand at making a aluminum gas tank from sheet metal also a fun project.
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2010
  5. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    helacoil might do it

    If your mount is flush than what I would do wold be to go out to the hardware store and get a apropperate helicoil for the gob. They usually come in a kit with a set of springs and a drill that is a bit bigger than the original hole It also comes with a tap that will cut treads for your coil.

    step 1 drill out the stripped threads
    step 2 tape the slots for the wire insert
    step 3 place insert with the wire in the centre that the tool holds onto facing down the bottom.

    step 4 brake off wire sticking out with needle noose pliers
    step 5 put bolt into "new threaded mount and there you have it.

    I like to put a lot of lock tight to keep them in place I don't remember blue or red,check the bottle

    Mike Frye the bike guy
  6. hooligan

    hooligan Guest

    Thank you to all who replied. I'm going to try a little of everything and I'll see what I can do tomorrow (next day off) and post some pictures of my progress.
  7. danlandberg

    danlandberg Member

    There is a product out there that looks like play doe. You cut a piece off, mix by kneading it like cookie doe, fill the hole, put the release agent on the stud, screw the stud in and let it harden. When you unscrew you have threads. I don't remember what the product is called (It's been to many years) The shop I worked for used the stuff to repair automatic transmissions from time to time.
  8. danlandberg

    danlandberg Member

    Red lock tight is permanent (need heat to remove) Blue is less aggressive.