Broken Mount stud

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Patch, May 29, 2007.

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  1. Patch

    Patch Guest

    I have a 3/16ths motor moun stud that broke and I can't seem to find an Easy-Out for it. Do they make 3/16ths easy outs

    What can I do?

    The stud is too far in for a dremel :x

  2. OldPete

    OldPete Guest

    You must mean 3/8". Bring it over and we can try. :smile:

    You might be better off taking it to a motorcycle shop for removal. Plead your case. The last broken studs I removed were in the top of a Packard engine block.
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    The stud is an M6 metric if that helps.
  4. Kielohawk

    Kielohawk Guest

    Since I have installed my engine (about 220 Miles ago), I have sheared 2 engine mount studs. I just drilled down through the center of the cheap screw stud that came with engine and retapped it. The second broken stud was one I had installed and was a bit harder metal. I drilled the center, then tried to use an easy out. I was to the point when I thought the easy out was gonna snap because I had loc-tited that one in and I quit. I just finished drilling it out and retapped that one as well. Be careful with the easy-outs. I would not want to try drilling one of those out. I have heard that drilling and tapping to install 8mm studs is better and they don't snap (shear) so easy.
    I think what helped me the most was adding block to the frame to keep the engine from shifting in the frame and torquing on the studs to make them shear or snap. Here is a pic of the block I installed to keep the engine block from creeping up the front tube.

  5. Simonator

    Simonator Guest

    Both the rear mount studs broke off on me. I tried the easy out and that broke off. Now what? Any of you guys ever experienced this? Like you said, It will not be easy to drill out that easy out. I may end up paying someone to rethread, if its possible. If not, I guess I will be purchasing a new motor from thatsdax in the near future.
  6. OldPete

    OldPete Guest

    Look up broken drill or tap removal in your area. It will cost from $20~$100 depending on who you call. So do some quick shopping. Do not bore them with long stories. Just ask how much. The process they will use is called EDM, electrical discharge machining. I would replace every stud on that motor with good ones. My two cents anyhoo.
  7. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    If you dare to try, you can find a very small center punch or hardened nail. Usually when the easy out breaks, it will leave a little side shear. Try to tap the easy out going right. oh yeah, put a shot of light lube in first. All you have to do is break the compression on it.
    I have in an exteme case used a very hardened small punch and just kept on breaking the easy out, out in bits.
    May the farce be with ya!
    If there is a local EDM and they are cheap, then go with ole Pete's idea.
  8. tfhudson

    tfhudson Guest

  9. fastboy9

    fastboy9 Member

    Last night one of my rear mount bolt/studs snapped from the engine block. It has snapped flush to the engine block. This is a college project and the deadline is Friday to hand it in. Somehow I have to get it three miles up to college. I have never experienced these sort of problems, what do I do! I'm sure there is an obvious soulution, but at the moment I can only think of using a smaller bit to drill into the stud, then use epoxy resin to glue the bit to the bolt, then reverse the drill and spin it back out.

    Please help! has anybody got any ideas? and whats an easy-out?
    Thanks guys I'm getting really desperate now!
  10. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    I have posted the pic to explain a minor update of this particular type of engine mount on my first build a few months ago.

    Never mind the roughness at the time, it is not a picture of the finished job, but I want to show the thinking behind the concept when the picture was taken.

    If you rev a car's engine, it will torque/twist to one side.

    If you ever get the chance, drive your car with no engine hood, put it in gear and drive the car, slow down by taking your foot off the pedal and speed up several times, and you notice an immense amount of stresses being taken care of by the engine mounts.

    The same in principle applies to these HT bike builds. When you twist the accelorstor handle and slowdown, speed up, slowdown countless times, it naturaly has stress points the bike is not built for.
    Can you then imagine this stress point is taken up by a single bolt or bolts day in day out as you ride your bike ?

    It was by accident I discovered to leave my wooden measuring tool I made to align where to drill the centre bolt hole, after 2 weeks the engine had shifted, downwards.

    I simply loosened the bolts, re-fitted the original wooden tool to bring the height back up, and this time left it there while tightening up the front centre bolt.
    The force was then placed on the wooden tool and I thought this might be a good idea and see what happens.
    I got smoother ride, there was less vibrations and by less I would say 75% and that is no joke and no exageration. It's a pleasure to ride this 27" steel frame motoredbike with the wooden support underneath the engine.
    I only used a angle grinder and a bench grinder to cut and shape it, so it's easily made to suit your requirements.

    Has the wooden tool under the engine lasted ?
    Yes, it has only slipped a bit due to some softening from fluids, but it is still holding the engine strong and steady.

    My point is this, that from my own expirience and observations, I will not take the kit's engine mounting methods for granted.
    Think beyond the square with some commonsense that these HT engines mean business on your bike frames and some sort of added support may need to be considered.

    Try making a wooden support as your template towards more durable material for later on.

    BTW, the black piece on the rear mount is leather, advice from this forum to not use rubber.
    Good advice, the leather is Ok up till now.


    Attached Files:

  11. fastboy9

    fastboy9 Member

    great idea! just wedged in place yeah? thanks for the idea.
  12. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Just remember, it was originally made to mark with a centrepunch where to drill the hole in the front down tube.
    To make it work right though, you will still require the 2 suspension rubbers because that large centre bolt,nuts,washer and "shims" made from washers shaped on the grinder is not from the HT kit either.

    Also the plate's centre hole, I had to reshape it rectangle ( up-down) to allow for some minor adjustment so the back mount bracket sits perfectly square. I actually missed the correct drill hole on the down tube by 1/4" too low and the pedal hit the engine when I first mounted it.
    As you tighten the front bolt, it will pull the engine down on the 2 rubbers placed between the centre bolt, but hard up against the top of the wooden wedge.
    The stress point of the torque/twist is then absorbed by the wood, it seems.

    As it is tightening downwards, keep squaring the engine at the rear mount.
    Then tighten the rear mount last.

    RATRODER Guest

    Good thread,lots of info.but anybody notice it should be in Frame Mount.hehe. louis
  14. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    if you still need to remove a broken stud from engine...
    I have had success using a dremel to cut a slot into the broken stud,
    then backing out the remnant with a screwdriver
  15. graucho

    graucho Active Member

    Bingo! Yes bill, ive also done this on a mini chopper mount. Took me 2 tries, 1.5 hrs but I did get it come out.
  16. fastboy9

    fastboy9 Member

    Yes!! duh! that was incredibly obvious, i'm off to do that now then.
  17. fatboy67

    fatboy67 Member

    Been in the trade for many years if all else fails you can use a very sharp center punch. Just put it off center and tap it downwards, but yes I know ya have already got it out.
  18. fastboy9

    fastboy9 Member

    No still havent yet, I'll give that ago as well, so would that just spin it out of the thread I guess. Thanks for the advice!
  19. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Ya, Fatboy67 is correct. Put the center punch at the edge and strike it straight down to make your dimple then hold the punch at a 35 or so degree angle and strike it toward the side going from right to left in a C.C. counter clockwise motion. If you have to redoit on the opposit side.
  20. fatboy67

    fatboy67 Member

    I think they are 6mm