fastboy9
Member
great idea! just wedged in place yeah? thanks for the idea.
BoltsMissing
Active Member
fastboy9
Just remember, it was originally made to mark with a centrepunch where to drill the hole in the front down tube.
To make it work right though, you will still require the 2 suspension rubbers because that large centre bolt,nuts,washer and "shims" made from washers shaped on the grinder is not from the HT kit either.
Also the plate's centre hole, I had to reshape it rectangle ( up-down) to allow for some minor adjustment so the back mount bracket sits perfectly square. I actually missed the correct drill hole on the down tube by 1/4" too low and the pedal hit the engine when I first mounted it.
As you tighten the front bolt, it will pull the engine down on the 2 rubbers placed between the centre bolt, but hard up against the top of the wooden wedge.
The stress point of the torque/twist is then absorbed by the wood, it seems.
As it is tightening downwards, keep squaring the engine at the rear mount.
Then tighten the rear mount last.
Just remember, it was originally made to mark with a centrepunch where to drill the hole in the front down tube.
To make it work right though, you will still require the 2 suspension rubbers because that large centre bolt,nuts,washer and "shims" made from washers shaped on the grinder is not from the HT kit either.
Also the plate's centre hole, I had to reshape it rectangle ( up-down) to allow for some minor adjustment so the back mount bracket sits perfectly square. I actually missed the correct drill hole on the down tube by 1/4" too low and the pedal hit the engine when I first mounted it.
As you tighten the front bolt, it will pull the engine down on the 2 rubbers placed between the centre bolt, but hard up against the top of the wooden wedge.
The stress point of the torque/twist is then absorbed by the wood, it seems.
As it is tightening downwards, keep squaring the engine at the rear mount.
Then tighten the rear mount last.
R
RATRODER
Guest
Good thread,lots of info.but anybody notice it should be in Frame Mount.hehe. louis
azbill
Active Member
if you still need to remove a broken stud from engine...
I have had success using a dremel to cut a slot into the broken stud,
then backing out the remnant with a screwdriver
I have had success using a dremel to cut a slot into the broken stud,
then backing out the remnant with a screwdriver
graucho
Well-Known Member
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Bingo! Yes bill, ive also done this on a mini chopper mount. Took me 2 tries, 1.5 hrs but I did get it come out.
fastboy9
Member
Yes!! duh! that was incredibly obvious, i'm off to do that now then.
fastboy9
Member
No still havent yet, I'll give that ago as well, so would that just spin it out of the thread I guess. Thanks for the advice!
D
Dockspa1
Guest
Ya, Fatboy67 is correct. Put the center punch at the edge and strike it straight down to make your dimple then hold the punch at a 35 or so degree angle and strike it toward the side going from right to left in a C.C. counter clockwise motion. If you have to redoit on the opposit side.
Doc
Doc
You must mean 3/8". Bring it over and we can try.
You might be better off taking it to a motorcycle shop for removal. Plead your case. The last broken studs I removed were in the top of a Packard engine block.
I think they are 6mm
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