broken stud 60 miles from home

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by jayjmarlo, Mar 12, 2013.

  1. jayjmarlo

    jayjmarlo New Member

    I'm on a trip to the cost writing from Safeway on their Wi-Fi in Florence Oregon. I just arrived planning to go camping tonight. I just stopped for food and I notice a broken mounting bolt! I'm 60 miles from home! I replaced all these with hardened steel! It's broken at the base with no way to remove. It can't be tapped because it's hardened steel. What on earth am I to do? I have tools and there is probably a hardware store in town I could stop by in the morning. For now I'll ride it easy and try and get home in one piece in the morning, I have no idea how to get it out and doubt our can even be done. It's the front one if that helps. Thanks for your advice I'll check this in the morning before attempting to ride 60 miles home on only the studs :(

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    ride it. lost count of how many times ive lost a mount bolt... so you gotta nudge it over straight occasionally? whatever! :jester:

    got pedals? they usually come equipped standard on pushies... ;)
  3. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    Make a screw-driver-like slot in it with a Black&Deckdeer rotary tool, then unscrew it.
    Then, for god's sake man, fix that vibration! How to do it is on my site.
  4. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    The answer is simple if you want to use a cheap hack method of stud removal: purchase a cheap torx screwdriver set or an individual torx screwdriver that you can drive into a 3mm or 4mm or 5mm hole, depending on the outside diameter of the bolt. Now purchase 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm full cobalt drill bits.
    Drill about 10mm into the broken stud (making sure you have more than 1mm of wall thickness after the bolt/stud has been drilled out), then drive the torx screw driver into the hole with a hammer without too much heavy force, or enough force that the torx screw driver gets decent purchase on the inside of the hole.

    As you apply twisting force to unscrew the stud, tap the top of the screw driver with a hammer to create vibration that will help rattle out the stud.
    I have found this method works well removing broken bolt/studs for other people who bring their engine to me for open heart surgery.

    Having said that, i've never broken a bolt on any of my engines. The only bolts/studs which have been replaced with higher spec items are the exhaust port studs; fitted with SickBikeParts upgrade items.
  5. jayjmarlo

    jayjmarlo New Member

    I used a bungee cord to hold the engine in place and got home. I am not understanding your explanations to tap and remove because the stud is hardened grade steal so I can't drill it. I could tap a new stud to it's side maybe a larger diameter just to it's side?
  6. Tanstaafl

    Tanstaafl Member

    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  7. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    You didn't read my post with an appropriate level of attention.

    I made mention of the fact to - purchase 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm full cobalt drill bits.

    Easy-out screw extractors can snap off inside the drilled out stud and can also force the stud to flare out and bind on the screw hole, making the problem even more of a headache if it goes pear shaped, hence i do not use easy-out screw extractors.
  8. Tanstaafl

    Tanstaafl Member

    An easy out will only snap off if one gets western with it, AKA some people can destroy a ball bearing with a feather.. I was a millwright and heavy idustrial maintenance mechanic for over 40 years working on many pieces and types of machinery.

    If the object is to drill the stud out, just use tungsten carbide center drill bits, they are hard enough to drill grade 8 bolts like butter, shaped to remain on center and the mass to take abuse.

    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  9. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    They are most certainly a viable option if it's necessary to drill into hardened steel.
  10. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Full cobalt drill bits also are an effective means of drilling hardened steel.
  11. Tanstaafl

    Tanstaafl Member

    True, if a hardened center drill bit is used to start the hole, otherwise the slender drill will have a tendency to drift off center.
  12. jayjmarlo

    jayjmarlo New Member

    I appreciate all your advice, the thing is these bolts were 10.9 hardened steal with blue lock tight and 2 of them ended up broken by the time I got home. I don't think I can drill them out period. However I will try your advice. I went to the hardware store but couldn't find any carbide center drill bits so I guess I'll have to shop around and maybe order them online.
  13. jayjmarlo

    jayjmarlo New Member

    On a positive note, I actually like the bungee cord support my dad thinks I should just leave it. I'm not sure though.
  14. Tanstaafl

    Tanstaafl Member

  15. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Now you know why they call those happy times motors.........glad you made it home safely.
  16. V 35

    V 35 Member

    I've had ' some ' luck annealing hardened bolts before drilling, when the annealing takes, the hardened metal drills easily. To anneal,
    soot up the metal with a candle, lighter, or acetyline torch set for yellow, sooty flame. The soot is a heat indicator, heat metal until black soot turns white, than gradually cool, by backing off, than re-applying torch heat. Do that for a good 20 minutes, than use a heat gun to keep
    cooled metal warm, the longer it cools, the softer it gets. You may have to try a few times, to get it to ' take ' but when sucessful, the stubs come right out.
    Fabian likes this.
  17. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Now that is useful information.
    I'll be writing down that little trick for the workshop.

    My current technique is to use split point full cobalt drill bits that easily work their way through hardened steel.
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