Bucking bar length

Joast

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Sep 26, 2022
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Clinton County Illinois
I have been having clutch adjustment issues and ordered a rebuild kit for the clutch actuator assembly.
The new bucking bar (round rod thing that hits the ball bearing?) is longer than the original one that I removed-- by maybe 4mm.
The arm that hits the bucking bar was worn on the edge. See pic below. Should I just reinstall the original,
shorter bucking bar or use the longer one? The machined arm thing is worn on the edge as shown,
but I can't see much wear on the original bucking bar.
The original setup was not moving the clutch plate out very far even after I adjusted it (numerous times).
Sorry if my description of the names of the parts is wrong, but the picture should explain what I have.
Thanks for any help on this.
John

CLUTCH BAR ASSEMBLY.jpg
 
I have been having clutch adjustment issues and ordered a rebuild kit for the clutch actuator assembly.
The new bucking bar (round rod thing that hits the ball bearing?) is longer than the original one that I removed-- by maybe 4mm.
The arm that hits the bucking bar was worn on the edge. See pic below. Should I just reinstall the original,
shorter bucking bar or use the longer one? The machined arm thing is worn on the edge as shown,
but I can't see much wear on the original bucking bar.
The original setup was not moving the clutch plate out very far even after I adjusted it (numerous times).
Sorry if my description of the names of the parts is wrong, but the picture should explain what I have.
Thanks for any help on this.
John
Follow these instructions below to achieve a proper clutch adjustment once you get the new kit.


When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place.

Now tighten the flower nut all the way until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the nut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel just starts to turn freely.

When you release the lever it should of course be totally locked up and at this point you should have all the slippage out of it and the bucking ball and bar along with the clutch actuator arm should all move smoothly...Put a dab of Lucas red and tacky or some white lithium grease on both ends of the bucking bar prior to reassembly.
 
I've repaired a couple actuator arms with that same damage by welding the gouge and grinding it smooth.

Thanks but my question is about the different lengths of the 2 round pieces shown under the ball bearings.
I am pitching out the worn part but the round things that contact the bearing are not the same length.
I have used the instructions from Damien several times on the old parts since I have been messing around
with this issue for a while. John
 
Thanks but my question is about the different lengths of the 2 round pieces shown under the ball bearings.
I am pitching out the worn part but the round things that contact the bearing are not the same length.
I have used the instructions from Damien several times on the old parts since I have been messing around
with this issue for a while. John
Your damage to the actuator arm was actually caused because the bucking bar was way too long.
 
You want to be sure that before doing those adjustments the way I described them that the clutch actuator arm is in the position shown in the picture below with the clutch lever fully released/engaged, then follow those instructions...You don't want that arm either inward or outward more than my pic shows...You want it as straight as is shown running true from front to back in a straight alignment following the lines of the motor and bike just as shown below.

Clutch Arm.JPG
 
Then it looks like some other adjustment was messed up then to cause that damage.
That is entirely possible lol. The damage looks worse in the picture than the part actually shows.
I am wondering if the original round bar was too short or is worn down? It looks unworn as far as I can see.
 
That is entirely possible lol. The damage looks worse in the picture than the part actually shows.
I am wondering if the original round bar was too short or is worn down? It looks unworn as far as I can see.
Just be sure that its put in the right way...one end is slightly concave, that is the end that goes inside to rest against the ball.
 
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