Build or buy expansion chamber?

BikeBuilder43

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4:58 AM
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Jun 29, 2016
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New Iberia, La
Hi guys. I am new to the idea of expansion chambers. I am thinking of building one but with very little knowledge I dont know if its a good idea. What materials should I use? How to connect the piping? Who sells the best expansion chambers? I dont care how loud it is. I live in the country.
 
making one... i tried brazing one, but got really lazy and simply butted it together with the inevitable result that it fell apart. very quickly. my plan was to use aerosol cans, and leave tabs on the edges to do "lap" joins, which are far stronger. anyways, that was just an experiment. brazing can be a legitimate, fairly easy method to join it all up, but you gotta do it properly!

every other pipe i have made i have welded, that is, about twenty pipes. in theory its quite simple, roll some 0.8-1mm steel into shaped cones, weld together, viola! attach!

in practice its a beetch... hard to roll cones, hard to hold them in place when you tack them together, and you really need to make a few trial pipes from stiff paper to get the layout right. a LOT of work. it gets easier with practice, but still...if you aint experienced... have fun! theres a few programs you can download that will at least let you figure out the templates needed for each "segment", after having used some type of software (or plain number crunching) to figure out a good pipe design.

its the way to do it if you want real definite results.

no, i never bothered making the pipe in the aforementioned link. i did intend to, because i think its basically a joke, but i cant make head or tail of the "spreadsheet" layout. i wanted to test it against certain other pipes designed on software that does seem to produce results just so i could laugh, but yeah... anyways. thats another story. saying anything at this time is sheer conjecture :)

if you havent/cant weld thin steel sheet, dont have a very good MIG or TIG welder, or oxy acetylene kit(welding thin steel is freakin HARD)... and cant figure out how to cut the templates from the steel, plus have a few tools in the workshop (sheet rolls, a bender,anvil or mandrel, that sort of thing,) buy a premade pipe. theres a few links to decent ones posted on here. do not waste time getting the "banana" pipe.
 
Thats a lot of good info. Was thinking of going with the banana pipe but now i'm not. I want a powerband in the higher rpm range. I dont know the do's and donts of porting but i matched my ports and lowered the intake port a good bit. Also bored out the transfers a bit and angled the top of the transfer ports so they are more exposed. I lost a bit of low end torque but it has a lot more upper mid-range power. It really pulls. I definitely need to regear it becaust it pulls all the way to top speed.
 
Thats a lot of good info. Was thinking of going with the banana pipe but now i'm not. I want a powerband in the higher rpm range. I dont know the do's and donts of porting but i matched my ports and lowered the intake port a good bit. Also bored out the transfers a bit and angled the top of the transfer ports so they are more exposed. I lost a bit of low end torque but it has a lot more upper mid-range power. It really pulls. I definitely need to regear it becaust it pulls all the way to top speed.

It is possible to increase the powerband at all rpm with careful (and conservative) port work.
Read over my past posts and pictures for detailed info, but in general:
1) don't touch the vertical. A little mistake can be hard to live with.
2) Widen the exhaust mainly at the top (near the head) of the window into the cylinder. "Vee" it into the bottom.
3) widen the intake mainly at the bottom or the cylinder window. "Vee" it into the top.
4) blend both ports to the manifold face removing the minimum amount of material. Keep both the original diameter.

With a 3-5mm squish band (at 0.030") and some minimal attention to intake and exhaust length you will have an engine that will haul from 1000 to 10,000 rpm. It is possible to not give up any power anywhere in the rpm band. No reed, stock NT carb, no tuned pipe.

Just imagine if I had a properly tuned pipe? Next week I hope.

Steve
 
I wish i knew dimensions and had the right tools to port. I got lucky with the port work i did. It has power where i want it, in the mid to upper rev range where i use it most. Just need a pipe to compliment it now.
 
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Angel Cortez I'm told has done 28t for a manic mechanic adapter, or mzmiami has 28t rag joint adapters and disc brake sprockets
 
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