Build ...phase 1

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by echotraveler, Apr 7, 2009.

  1. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    Hello Motoredbike bikers!

    the motor kit arrived yesterday, it was well packed, and all the components seem to be there, the hardware looks nice, the muffler is tougher than i thought.

    its gonna be time consumming:

    first (done today) the upper screws of the motor block are not long enough. after some digging i found a 3ft screw from which i made my 4" long screws.
    then i want to have some kind of spacer to re-enforce the screws so i found another 3ft tube that would cover, the 1" gap between the motor and the "gray holding block"

    also, the rear sproket is 1"1/4" when it should be 1"3/4" so i put the sproket on a music turn table and blanced it the best i could. marking a couple of cicles around the center. (see pic)
    tried to dremmel it but i need a tougher tool..what professional should i ask for this task?


    Alter the carb tubing, a muffler man has to help me!
    plz see pics, you can see how the carby gets in the way.

    heres the pictures of everything, it seems safe, but plz shime in.

    Attached Files:

  2. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    wow.... that's a tight fit!! I have some ideas that should help you out.

    In the 4th photo.... rotate the engine counter-clockwise, until the front engine mount sites properly on the bike's downtube.

    the space at the rear mount can be filled in easily.

    take pics of adjustments.

    then try to put your exhaust pipe on....... you don't have to bolt it on .... just make sure it will fit. If not.... note which part of the frame interferes.
    take more pics.

    The carb can be pointed out to either side, by using a similar sized metal elbow...attached with a short section of rubber hose & hose clamps. there are pics of this method on this site.

    there's more..... but let's see what everyone else has to say.
  3. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    hey srdavo i didnt get the counter clockwise movement your talking about, but i did unscrew, reposition and screw the motor is dead center from the top view and solid in the frame...

    added the muffler, i would like to bend it close to the frame.

    Attached Files:

  4. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    good... by repositioning.... you accomplished the CCW movement needed.

    don't try bending your muffler, just yet. It will need to be REMOVED from the Bike first and probably heated with a torch, to make a smooth bend.

    there are two more important things to do 1st:
    Solidly, fill in the gap between the rear mounting block & the engine, (Did you get an extra mounting block with your kit?)
    mounting block.jpg
    attach an elbow to your intake manifold so the carb will turn 90 degrees to the left or the right.
    I haven't located a pic yet
  5. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  6. ENO

    ENO Member

    hey ECHOooo..ENO (Down Under)..This is why we need Super Moderators and with the info youre getting you start with the right ideas and mechanically know how and then you have no hiccups down the track...I like the exhausts fitted by the "Muffler Man" ($30) and to have them extended so they neatly sit under the motor and clear the pedal nicely..(Pic)..Goo for it you enjoy the build as much as the ride sometimes..Thanks Davo..Good luck ECHOooo...ENO

    Attached Files:

  7. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    SrDavo: there are no other mounting blocks that i can that i think aobut it thers a "U" shaped screw witha metal square with 4 wholes...i thought that was another braket.

    about the carby, is the elbow your talking about metal or bendable plastic (like water hose)? im not getting how not to weld ti?

    i wont bend the muffler myself, the muffler man's gonna earn his money.
    there is a mounting bracket for the muffler, i may need to shorten it.

    Eno: will enjoy the build as much as i can, making any problem the adventure for the day. that muffler looks badass. When the muffler is heated, does it loose the "chrome"??

    another step is getting that rear sprokets center to fit my hub...1/2" bigger
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2009
  8. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    by the way i will buy something to fill the the rear mount, its an easy task beacuase thers a piece of rubber on the frame for protection
  9. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    If you put a round file into a drill, it makes making that centre hole easy. Just go in and out and round and round , along with common sense. You would be surprised how well a spinning file can remove metal.
    Heating will turn the chrome blue on the muffler but you could always paint it black with B-B-Q paint.
  10. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    lol yeah im trying to keep things simple, but muffler guys here dont do anything. and went to a machine shop and they also didnt do it, now im going to a guys house, he does metal work milling torneo.....hes gonna help me for sure, people are thinking im looking for presision cutting and pressision not sure i want that $$$ but im having fun looking around!
  11. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    Why don't you just get a blow torch and do it yourself? Get it red and it will bend like nothing.
    Also, the way I see it, if you mount the rear mount first and let it seat, I think the carb will fit.(pic 6779)
  12. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    bending the exhaust is only a cosmetic issue.

    there are more important things involved in this build.
  13. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    hello friends! its 3 in the morning here in Puerto Rico, im happy to report that all the tasks of the day have been complete after a lot searching.

    It seems this kind of job is not really desireable by machine shops, but at the end i got the guy, hes name is Angel Velasquez and his a milling expert, has the right tools.

    so we bent the muffler, yeah pretty easy (but no muffler man said yes to it)

    he bored the rear sprocket, it seems chinese sprokets are not really super centered, but we got around and did it on a very professional machine.

    and also did the carb, that took a bit more thinking but was well worth it, guaranted job by a professional welder.

    without his work this build would be so much 3 days ill re-visit him to finish some details, just because he was such a cool guy.

    all in all we spent 4 hours tinkering. hope you guys enjoy the pics

    also: whats that U shaped thing i photographed.

    plz shime in.

    ps. im not understanding the wires for the kill switch. (ill look in search)

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 9, 2009
  14. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    Really hard to see the pic of the U-bolt but I Would say that is a front engine mount for bikes with fat tubes. The U goes around the bikes tube and the flat bar is what bolts to the engine block. It's an extra part for now.
    You are right about the Chinese sprockets and you did a good job of centring the hole, you are lucky to have found that guy. A lot of bike repair shops look at you like you are crazy so you found a good guy.
    I've never seen a motor on such an angle, I hope the carb is level for the fuel bowls sake. Hard to see from the pic.
  15. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    the carb is leveled :cool:

    ill post another thread with a working MB, still not finished, cause i would like to paint.
  16. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    Rear Sprocket 3-speed hub, problems and experience.

    hello friends having 3-speed coaster break hub posses some special situations that i would like to discuss. Plz share your thoghts.:cool:

    1. buying low profile screws for the sproket to make sure the coaster break arm doesn't get in the way of the sproket

    2. the whole in the center of the sproket is too small!!! i need to make it bigger! how much?

    3. the sproket has to be clear off the dust cover of the hub.


    Nexus Hubs have a dust cover on the coaster break arm side. that dust cover made me bore the center of the rear sproket so it could fit.

    Last night i installed and tightend it very well, it seemed super cool, and tight, perfect fit. but the wheel seemed to be stuck for some reason, it was very hard to turn the wheel, but maybe it was the transmission had gone crazy.

    well after mounting the wheel i could not turn the wheel with the chain, so i started looking @ the hub and the answere. the dust cover didnt turn with the wheel, so the rear sproket was grinding the dust cover....i loosened the screws and some how the wheel got free.

    i remember the guy that did the bore told me he gave me a bigger whole, so i could play just a tiny bit.

    right now i can have a free running wheel IF i dont tighten the wheel that much, because when it gets gets really compressed it gets stock for some reason ( 1 could be the sproket hitting a bigger diameter at the edge of the hub and dust cover, or 2 the black rubber spacers may touch the dust cover making resistance. or both)

    probably is the black rubbers that compress, because i can fit a piece of paper between the sproket and the hub while the wheel is spinning

    Any thoughts?
  17. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

  18. macarollo

    macarollo Guest

    Do yourself a HUGE favor before you finish your install....

    Throw away ALL of the stock hardware and buy grade 8 nuts and bolts.

    ALSO, put locktite on EVERY bolt.

    Those two steps will save you a LOT of breakdowns.
  19. echotraveler

    echotraveler Member

    thanx macarollo, i will eventually upgrade the bolts, and they all got locktite on them. =-)

    right now im trying to get the kit working...tilting the motor involves a lot of little alterations that take a lot of time to achive....its a custom happy time. lol

    today im looking for more chain, because the tilted motor is too far away from the sproket....hope i can get this chain today. also, the kill switch wires are to short. in everything that connects to the motor has been modified, except the cdi. lol a kit that can be mounted in 5 hours, has taken 2 weeks for me, i must be a dumb/genius hihihi...

    ill be posting pics tonight