Build Your Own LED Turn Signals!

BTW - I have been 'away' from the forum for a while since starting this thread, and it seems that there is now a 'Lighting and Electrical' sub-group in the 'Garage' section. Mods, feel free to move this whole thread into that area if you think it would help for organization.
 
I have noticed that having turn signals, brake lights, and a head light gets you significantly more respect from cars. Sad but true. Some might say that having a full-blown lighting system blurs the line between motored bike and moped/scooter or diminishes the elegance and simplicity of a 'bare bones' motored bike, but I'd do just about anything to reduce the likelihood of becoming a hood ornament for a texting teenage Ford Excursion driver.


I agree 100%
 

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VERY nice, Global! I am impressed! I especially like the compact size of the control unit and the external flash frequency pot. Did you run into any snags with the circuit/plans/directions? I'm glad your build was a success!
 
Problems

VERY nice, Global! I am impressed! I especially like the compact size of the control unit and the external flash frequency pot. Did you run into any snags with the circuit/plans/directions? I'm glad your build was a success!

Thank you for your comment.

Yes I did run into a few problems as you can tell it took me a day to figure it all out. Everything was put together smoothly until:
1st problem was I forgot where I put my LED lights I purchased, so I had to test the circuit without lights. (which was a problem for later)
2nd problem was that **** dp3t switch. Everything was working until I put it in the enclosure. I thought I had it all figured out (which I did), put the enclosure together and tested it. Solid lights??? what is going on (later figured it was something touching/shorting) ... so I took the enclosure apart and moved wires thinking I did not have it all figured out the way I thought... put it in enclosure hooked it up and guess what both were blinking. Removed the enclosure and I moved things around with an unclear mind for about an hour and a half. The circuit got the best of me.

Slept on it went back to it in the morning and thought for sure I had it right the first time. Moved the wires back (now my wires are getting short, and you know how the movement wires go once you put them in small enclosures) tested it outside of the enclosure (learned my lesson putting it in and taking it out of enclosure) everything worked perfect. So I thought I would glue it up again and put it in the enclosure. I went and grabbed the camera for a vid and when I turned it on in the enclosure solid lights (instead of blinking) open enclosure blinking lights, close it solid... **** the metal enclosure.

Finally I got so mad I filled the enclosure with hot glue and put it together, now it works like a charm.

-marcus

Since I have the extra parts I am thinking of making another. Anyone interested in one? I have a plastic black enclosure and will put the next one on a board.
 
2nd problem was that **** dp3t switch. Everything was working until I put it in the enclosure. I thought I had it all figured out (which I did), put the enclosure together and tested it. Solid lights??? what is going on (later figured it was something touching/shorting) ...

...

I went and grabbed the camera for a vid and when I turned it on in the enclosure solid lights (instead of blinking) open enclosure blinking lights, close it solid...

Interesting. You are dead on that the metal case was almost certainly shorting something (to ground, likely). The 'solid lights' behavior could be explained by one of these two things:

1) Pin #10 on the CD4047BE IC was somehow shorted to +12V. This would result in both LED modules being solid on when they normally would have been flashing.

You'd get:

position 1: R solid on, L off
position 2: R off, L off
position 3: R off, L solid on


2) More likely, the drain (D) pin of one or both of the MOSFETs was shorted to ground (likely through the case). If you go back to the third picture attachment of post #14, the one showing the 'real-life' view of the MOSFETs, you'll see that the big metal tab with a hole in it on the back of the MOSFETs is actually a part of the drain pin. So, if any part of that big tab comes in contact with the case, the drain pin will be shorted to ground. Shorting the drain pin to ground would cause the LED connected to the shorted MOSFET to be solid on when it normally would have been blinking.

Assuming only one of the two MOSFETs got shorted like this, you'd get:

position 1: R (shorted) solid on, L off
position 2: R off, L off
position 3: R off, L flashing on

or

position 1: R flashing on, L off
position 2: R off, L off
position 3: R off, L (shorted) solid on


I'm glad the hot glue did the trick!
 
Mock up of lights

So far I have made a mock up, but ran out of hot glue. I guess I used too much the other day. So I have had to resort to what I could find and that is some clear caulk. tub and sink sealer. So we will have to wait for that to dry up before I can mount it. ( I am betting I will have to tear it all out and put in glue when I get it )

Well here it is, some stuff I had laying around. PVC pipe and some fittings. Drilled some crooked holes painted it black and located a U bracket for the install. Next couple of things to do is mount that battery pack I built and I will have my blinkers. Also I came across an LED light which I will wire up for a headlight and since I am doing that I guess I need a tail light ( running light / s) as well. (Still debating on if I should have the rear one blinking or constant illumination. Have any thoughts?

Honestly tell me what you think of this mock up, Im up for constructive criticism.



 

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So far I have made a mock up, but ran out of hot glue. I guess I used too much the other day. So I have had to resort to what I could find and that is some clear caulk. tub and sink sealer. So we will have to wait for that to dry up before I can mount it. ( I am betting I will have to tear it all out and put in glue when I get it )

Well here it is, some stuff I had laying around. PVC pipe and some fittings. Drilled some crooked holes painted it black and located a U bracket for the install. Next couple of things to do is mount that battery pack I built and I will have my blinkers. Also I came across an LED light which I will wire up for a headlight and since I am doing that I guess I need a tail light ( running light / s) as well. (Still debating on if I should have the rear one blinking or constant illumination. Have any thoughts?

Honestly tell me what you think of this mock up, Im up for constructive criticism.




Looks good! I would suggest going out and buying some two-part syringe epoxy or JB Weld, though. If your bike vibrates half as much as my HT does, you won't regret it. My GEBE, on the other hand, doesn't really vibrate much at all, and the lights might be able to stay on with the hot glue. Either way, if you're buying glue anyway, I'd go for some tough stuff.

Did you weld a frame together for your battery pack? What batteries are you using?

As far as a tail light goes, it's definitely a good idea for making your presence known to cars approaching from behind. Here are a couple things to consider:

- Blinking is more noticeable to drivers than solid on, hands down.
- Solid on is the 'standard' for cars and other motor vehicles (obviously).
- Blinking might be confusing to drivers when paired with one turn signal or the other, especially if they are the same color, and especially at night.

All that considered, if I were making a bike, it would come down to this. If you plan on doing significant night driving, I would recommend making your tail light blinking. It's just more noticeable. If you're not planning on doing a lot of night driving, I'd make it solid on, to eliminate confusion with the turn signals.

Hey - now that I think about it, you could have the tail light blink, be solid on, or be off completely all in the same setup, since you have enough extra parts to make another system. If you decide to go this route and want a circuit schematic, just let me know.
 
Somewhat Finished

Did you weld a frame together for your battery pack? What batteries are you using?
Yes I did weld a battery pack. I was using two SLA batteries chained. I decided that I did not need two that it would be overkill so I made a new battery holder. Welded it up and put it on. Saw that the battery would bounce up and down on the single weld to the from mount. So I added the U clamp. Fit perfect thats why I used that two dollor part. :( now that I look back I should have taken some time to fabricate my own instead of using a two dollar part.

Hey - now that I think about it, you could have the tail light blink, be solid on, or be off completely all in the same setup, since you have enough extra parts to make another system. If you decide to go this route and want a circuit schematic, just let me know.

Now you have me thinking... I have this extra case and some extra parts. Is it possible to make a small circuit that would have two switches. One for the blinkers and one for the tail light. That would have two adjustments one for the blinkers and one for the blink rate of the tail light (if I had the switch in the position for the tail light to blink).

This probably does not make any sense. When you said use up the extra parts my mind went to thinking about having it all in one enclosure.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the somewhat finished product. Going to take it for a ride now and see how it handles/holds up. Any ideas for improvements let me know.



 

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