Build Your Own LED Turn Signals!

ok. parts ordered! 20 mosfets, and 10 of everything else. havent got lights or switches yrt though. but i did buy a soldering iron, and a multimeter.

depending on the price of the lights, this kit shpuld be a decent price! cause for 20 mosfets and 10 of everything else sept switches, my order came to 37 dollars!
 
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ok. parts ordered! 20 mosfets, and 10 of everything else. havent got lights or switches yrt though. but i did buy a soldering iron, and a multimeter.

depending on the price of the lights, this kit shpuld be a decent price! cause for 20 mosfets and 10 of everything else sept switches, my order came to 37 dollars!


Not bad! One thing I just thought of, that might benefit people in the future. A 14-DIP Socket would probably be a safe purchase to make. Basically, it lets you do all of the soldering away from the actual IC pins, directly on the socket's pins. Then when you're done soldering to the DIP Socket, you just plug in your IC to the top of the socket, and fire 'er up. It reduces the potential for frying the IC.

hey rock what do ya think of this as a always on charger, to use when i am riding the bike, so it will be a fairly even discharge? take some put some in kinda deal. would that even work without frying the setup? that way i dont gotta pay for a charger.
http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_info.php/products_id/394

Hmmm. Well, it's important to keep in mind that that is designed to be a generator, not a charger. Basically, that means that, when you're moving at a fast enough rate of speed, it should be outputting ~12V. Because power(W)=current(A)*voltage(V), we know that it is spec'd at a current output of 0.5A (theoretically). For normal SLAs, you really don't want to go much past 2A for charging (faster rates generally degrade the battery's ability to hold charge), so this is an ok current level.

The main problem is that the voltage output of the generator is too low. For even the slowest trickle chargers, you need at least +13.5 V to really be able to charge the battery. Consider this - if your generator outputs +12V, and your battery is running at, say, +12.1V, current is actually going to want to flow from the battery into the generator, as opposed to the other way around.

Another thing to consider is what the generator's impedance is. Basically, when you're not running the bike or the generator, and it's hooked up to the battery, can current flow from the battery "backwards" through the generator? They may have taken this into consideration when designing the generator (using diodes, etc.), but they may not have. If not, you'd actually be draining your battery when the bike isn't running.

Basically, unless you want to run the risk of harming your battery, I'd either look around online for schematics detailing other peoples' SLA charger designs or buy a charger.
 
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thanks again rock. my only issue is trying to find a charger..... dunno why i cant find one, they should be everywhere! lol, i found one on a scooter site but the chagers dont have alligator clips (what i want)
 
Multimeter Tutorial
Multimeter Tutorial Video

With the switch in position A, locate all of the pin positions that are shorted (~0 ohm resistance) to each other. With the switch in position B, locate all of the pin that are shorted to each other. The two pins that are shorted to something else in BOTH positions A and B (probably the middle two), are the throws. The other four (each should be connected to one of the throws in either position A or B) are the poles.

I'd recommend doing a google search on DPDT switches to understand how they operate better. This is really important for understanding how the circuit works.
 
thanks rock, ill check in a bit just found out i gotta buy a little tiny battery for it anyway :( soooo out to buy one.
 
ok rock, i just got my dads meter, and both times, (both directions) i had to put the probes on an outer 1 and a inner 1. and then to get the other side to do the same thing, i had to put it in position b. so i think its the middle ones. i did find a tut, and now i have some kind of understanding of it. this whole time, i thought i was working with 2 wires..... guess ill have to read the directions again. other than that, im pretty much ready to do this.




--thanks for dealing with me :p
 
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just took another look at the diagram. i get it now!~ my only question is what is +V ? positive? but it doesnt go to anything.
 
Right. +V stands for +12V, in this case. It's kind of like the GND symbol - even though it's not connected to anything in the diagram, it is understood that all GNDs go to the same place (negative terminal on battery), and all +Vs go to the same place (positive terminal on battery).
 
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