Building another friction drive

[darwin]

Well done UF!

 

[Urban Fatbiker]

Well done UF!

Damn right anything you can throw together in 6 days and ride like you bought it new, that's a win!

And brother's happy, we can ride together, and the top of my shed is clear of junk too!

 

[GW's Motorized]

If I pulled out the welder and did some redneck bs I could build some cool( but jankey) stuff

 

[Urban Fatbiker]

I refer you back 5 years, and now, here's a pile of redneck janky stuff, and it took me months to create this...scrap pile?

You must be remembering this! Totally bonafide overengineered redneck.

Took me 6 days to rip out my rednecking, and clean it up.
I'm getting better at this! Its now certified hillbilly craftwork. Get it right now ya hear!

 

[Urban Fatbiker]

Wouldnt the balance be off with the engine being on one side like that?

Theory tested, and nope! I was amazed how well the bike handles even no-hands, it's like an extension of me. For that reason alone I hated giving it away. Best balanced rider and tracking bike I've built since I was 14.

Yesterday I left dollar store, pushed throttle up, layed my hands back, rode it that way into town never touching the handlebars!

Later I got to where it felt natural just to take off lock throttle and sit upright like the bike was on remote control, leaning into curves, giving my two-thumbs up to people smiling at me.

I won't pull that kind of stunt on any of my bikes I know that! They're too fast and snappy.

 

[Cannonball3]

Great job!!

 

[Urban Fatbiker]

I'm already looking at an upgrade, a shaft made to match staton or bikeberry rollers, and a steel spline roller he can order replacements for.

Anyone know if Staton will cut a roller with a 12mm thru-hole, drilled for M6 set screw?

My other option is to couple a standard 5/8" shaft or stubby roller to a male M8 thread, and a bearing mount on other side. I think that's more custom machining, but cheaper roller replacements.

Great job!!

 

[Cannonball3]

I'm already looking at an upgrade, a shaft made to match staton or bikeberry rollers, and a steel spline roller he can order replacements for.

Anyone know if Staton will cut a roller with a 12mm thru-hole, drilled for M6 set screw?

My other option is to couple a standard 5/8" shaft or stubby roller to a male M8 thread, and a bearing mount on other side. I think that's more custom machining, but cheaper roller replacements.

The Bikeberry rollers are on a 15mm shaft which is easy to modify. The roller is 1.5” which is rather large for a small engine. It will pull it but really cant rev out. 1.25 is much better. Also the BB roller is noisy. Staton rollers are great. Grippy and quiet. But they are at a fixed length, where as a 5/8 keyed shaft is easier to deal with to make a roller for.

Also if you can make a bracket to remount your tank vertically you can greatly increase you fuel capacity. I have the same problem. I prop the front of my bike up to get a full tank.

 

[Urban Fatbiker]

Yeah 1.5" way too tall for a 25cc. I made a service call today to replace tires and add kickstand. Brought my bike to ride but never took it out.

Tire makes a load of difference. I ran thru the gears to boost the accelleration, and it outran my pedalling.

Otherwise its a slow rise to about 20mph with no help. And it'll putt-putt a parking lot low rpm too. Not bad.

I brought it home to mod the lower pivots, I can also mod the tank bracket while its here.

 

[Cannonball3]

The 43cc 2stroke that came with the FD had no problem with the 1.5” and was quite fast. Was just too noisy
for my area.
What tires are you running? I normally run the common 2.125 cruiser tires. The best I have found are Hookworms. The roller settles into them nicely at 25-30psi but they are pricey.