bamabikeguy
Active Member
"MBc EDIT - This post contains information or advice that MotoredBikes.com knows to be incorrect."
DO NOT USE THE DUCT TAPE PART OF THIS DEMO, EVERYTHING ELSE IS VALID.
bama.....
Elsewhere I mentioned on my first long trip, on the very first day, I cut a dime sized hunk out of my tire due to the lousy road construction shoulders.
3 flat tires on the first day, NOTHING MORE MADDENING, miles from a bike shop. Spend about $25 bucks for both front and back wheels, and you won't have that "on the road hassle".....
Sting me once, and I get to thinking. Dennis at GEBE is sending me a better, rust proof, made in USA .105 (12 gauge) wheel, but I went ahead and got one of my remaining steel ones ready for the Mobile trip, shoving off Thursday.
To build a better wheel/tire combo, I use slime tubes $7, Tuffy tire liners $10, about 2/3 of a roll of electric tape, duct tape and zip ties.
I zip tie the spokes right off the bat, figuring the spokes are as true as they ever will be, and firming up the spokes from the beginning I have NEVER had a problem with them loosening later.
On the Denver trip, it wasn't a hole from the outside that caused my ONLY flat, but abrasion by the spoke ends through the gasket/membrane. So I wrap it electrical tape over that gasket a minimum of three times.
When I peirce through the valve stem hole, I go ahead and stick the valve stem in, a final "boring the hole through the tape", to make it easier when I actually insert the tube into the tire. The tape ALSO serves as a cushion, to prevent abrasion from the steel to the stem.
"MBc EDIT - This post contains information or advice that MotoredBikes.com knows to be incorrect."
HERE IS THE BOGUS PART: But I can't undo the Collage. Duct tape may cause abrasion/puncture after 1,000 miles on the road.
Then I double up strips of duct tape[/b], and line the tire, thinking this barrier would catch any fluke the Tuffy Tire liner doesn't absorb. Using strips of tape to hold the Tuffy liner in, I can then put in the slime tube (which hardly ever needs inflation months later)
Special note, because it happened again today. Three of those slime tubes, out of about 50 I've put in, had loose valve stems. If you have a slow leak, that is usually the cause, a twist with needle nose and you're back in business.
REALITY CHECK- I built that wheel above and took the pictures just to show folks in the general category, works on all bikes. With the Golden Eagle system, normally I snap the belt drive ring on first, and spin it on my home made "true meter".
Line up the notches, try a few positions to make sure, and when you have the "fit", pull it back and Q-tip some liquid soap or vegetable oil in the notches.
Snap in the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock notches, measure the gaps. Dennis at GEBE sent me a pre-ringed wheel one time, and I made some perfectly measured "chocks", out of used animal hypodermic needles. Using those, I measure the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock notches, and snap them on.
Use the torque system, alternating around, make sure to hold the spoke firm when snapping, to prevent bending. Double check to make sure all are snug, and whoola........no belt "loopiness" because the ring is close to perfectly seated.
MAKE SURE TO WASH LIQUID SOAP OFF, to prevent rust spots from forming quickly where the notch meets the spoke......
not enough time to edit, pardon the hasty looking post....pc
DO NOT USE THE DUCT TAPE PART OF THIS DEMO, EVERYTHING ELSE IS VALID.
bama.....
Elsewhere I mentioned on my first long trip, on the very first day, I cut a dime sized hunk out of my tire due to the lousy road construction shoulders.
3 flat tires on the first day, NOTHING MORE MADDENING, miles from a bike shop. Spend about $25 bucks for both front and back wheels, and you won't have that "on the road hassle".....
Sting me once, and I get to thinking. Dennis at GEBE is sending me a better, rust proof, made in USA .105 (12 gauge) wheel, but I went ahead and got one of my remaining steel ones ready for the Mobile trip, shoving off Thursday.
To build a better wheel/tire combo, I use slime tubes $7, Tuffy tire liners $10, about 2/3 of a roll of electric tape, duct tape and zip ties.

I zip tie the spokes right off the bat, figuring the spokes are as true as they ever will be, and firming up the spokes from the beginning I have NEVER had a problem with them loosening later.
On the Denver trip, it wasn't a hole from the outside that caused my ONLY flat, but abrasion by the spoke ends through the gasket/membrane. So I wrap it electrical tape over that gasket a minimum of three times.

When I peirce through the valve stem hole, I go ahead and stick the valve stem in, a final "boring the hole through the tape", to make it easier when I actually insert the tube into the tire. The tape ALSO serves as a cushion, to prevent abrasion from the steel to the stem.
"MBc EDIT - This post contains information or advice that MotoredBikes.com knows to be incorrect."
HERE IS THE BOGUS PART: But I can't undo the Collage. Duct tape may cause abrasion/puncture after 1,000 miles on the road.
Then I double up strips of duct tape[/b], and line the tire, thinking this barrier would catch any fluke the Tuffy Tire liner doesn't absorb. Using strips of tape to hold the Tuffy liner in, I can then put in the slime tube (which hardly ever needs inflation months later)

Special note, because it happened again today. Three of those slime tubes, out of about 50 I've put in, had loose valve stems. If you have a slow leak, that is usually the cause, a twist with needle nose and you're back in business.
REALITY CHECK- I built that wheel above and took the pictures just to show folks in the general category, works on all bikes. With the Golden Eagle system, normally I snap the belt drive ring on first, and spin it on my home made "true meter".

Line up the notches, try a few positions to make sure, and when you have the "fit", pull it back and Q-tip some liquid soap or vegetable oil in the notches.

Snap in the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock notches, measure the gaps. Dennis at GEBE sent me a pre-ringed wheel one time, and I made some perfectly measured "chocks", out of used animal hypodermic needles. Using those, I measure the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock notches, and snap them on.
Use the torque system, alternating around, make sure to hold the spoke firm when snapping, to prevent bending. Double check to make sure all are snug, and whoola........no belt "loopiness" because the ring is close to perfectly seated.

MAKE SURE TO WASH LIQUID SOAP OFF, to prevent rust spots from forming quickly where the notch meets the spoke......
not enough time to edit, pardon the hasty looking post....pc