danlandberg
Active Member
Thanks Akutey
building from scratch, all new parts
- Thread starter danlandberg
- Start date
danlandberg
Active Member
So a ported zeda cylinder with a 40 mm intake spacing would be a bad idea? I'm having a little trouble grasping "without the issues a zeda triple 40 would have". The listing just says "40 mm intake spacing". I understood that a 40 mm intake spacing and a 40 mm stroke is a double 40. Is the exhaust a 40 mm spacing also to make it a triple 40? Just wondering if the port timing on a PK80, GT5 and a zeda, (all 66 cc) are the same? Or will I have to double up on the base gasket ? Or would I need to seal and assemble without a gasket?
I've match ported the transfers and trimmed the gasket for no obstructions and cleaned the casting defects.
FNTPuck
Well-Known Member
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G5 cylinder is meant for a PK80 and if ran on a zeda its way too tall. You need to ramp piston, notch the skirt, and mill the top down to get proper quench/compression and unshroud the ports. This is one installed with zero mods, the piston was like 1.5-2mm below deck and skirt shrouded intake by similar amount.
danlandberg
Active Member
I trimmed the the skirt on the piston that came with the engine kit and cleaned up the casting flaws in the intake and exhaust ports. It has open transfer ports. I don't like the open transfer ports, no bottom end power or torque. I pull a trailer at times to go shopping. That's why I'm changing
the cylinder to a GT5 style. I want to find a professionally ported cylinder that will just bolt on. I also have a new low pin piston and rings, pin, bearing and clips. I have already assembled a GT5 engine with the same port work + the transfers. The problem with the engine now is drive chain front sprocket is way to noisy and binding with every tooth entering the chain or leaving the chain. I know there is a way to modify the sprocket, I just can't fin the thread or post again. Have any idea thread and post it is on this forum?
the cylinder to a GT5 style. I want to find a professionally ported cylinder that will just bolt on. I also have a new low pin piston and rings, pin, bearing and clips. I have already assembled a GT5 engine with the same port work + the transfers. The problem with the engine now is drive chain front sprocket is way to noisy and binding with every tooth entering the chain or leaving the chain. I know there is a way to modify the sprocket, I just can't fin the thread or post again. Have any idea thread and post it is on this forum?
Frogslayer
Well-Known Member
After running the kit chain or single speed bicycle chain? The kit chain should roll around that sprocket like butter. If you go for the thinner bicycle chain for more clearance or less drag or whatever you'll have to thin the front sprocket some. Mine was like ten swipes with a file on one side of each tooth. I filed the outside to move my chain away from the chain stays ever so slightly.
danlandberg
Active Member
The sprocket(s) are 415 compatible and the chain is a 415. I don't have any clearance concerns except the rear disc brake caliper. I can flip the rear sprocket over the right way (Teeth toward the rim) I put it on backward for chain to tire Clarence. I put everything together to see how everything would fit, and see what parts I would have to build or modify. So I know I can flip the rear sprocket safely.
I think if I were to ride it for a bit of time, the chain would stretch and smooth out. (chain and sprockets would break in together).
It's just hard to role and adds vibration. I need it to be smooth and easy to peddle during break in, in case it becomes broken, and I'm a ways from home and have to peddle back. (I guess I could always remove the drive chain).
I think if I were to ride it for a bit of time, the chain would stretch and smooth out. (chain and sprockets would break in together).
It's just hard to role and adds vibration. I need it to be smooth and easy to peddle during break in, in case it becomes broken, and I'm a ways from home and have to peddle back. (I guess I could always remove the drive chain).
Frogslayer
Well-Known Member
Might have to just ride fast in small circles until your chain and sprocket wear in. Going to 41 chain really made my bike roll better but it wasn't hard to pedal with 415 that it came with.
Frogslayer
Well-Known Member
It's your clutch dragging by chance? Not disengaging all the way when you pull it in?
danlandberg
Active Member
No, got the clutch adjusted good. It's the chain to front sprocket bump,bump,bump when rolling the bike.
Riding the bike to break the chain and sprockets is the same as wearing it out. That's why I need to try and modify the front sprocket. Bevel the flat and sharp edges. Bikeberry has a video on it. I can't seem to find the thread I seen many years ago in this forum.
Riding the bike to break the chain and sprockets is the same as wearing it out. That's why I need to try and modify the front sprocket. Bevel the flat and sharp edges. Bikeberry has a video on it. I can't seem to find the thread I seen many years ago in this forum.
Frogslayer
Well-Known Member
And sorry don't get offended but you have like 1/2 inch of slack? Chains can't be guitar string tight.
