Can I attach a chain tensioner upside down?

Yes I will try and do a better job of writing. But until I see them start making something better, I will always say the tensioner that comes with the kits is JUNK. And I have the scars to prove it. The bracket should not be bendable, and it should not be able to rotate on the chainstay. It should be spring loaded, because the chain will have tight and loose spots. It should have motorcycle quality bearings if it turns. The part that makes contact with the chain should be virtually unbreakable. It does not need to turn, a heavy duty nylon rubbing block will work fine. It will only wear down until the rollers contact the block, then stop wearing. Dirt bikes have used a setup like that. My 1979 Yamaha DT250 has one, it is original, and I have rebuilt the engine 3 times.

I don't know what the recommended ratio is for these Chinese engines. But you can get a measuring bottle http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessory.php?in=3675634&gclid=CMWP_57n0M4CFURrfgodbW8H0w so you can get the ratio perfect. I mix one gallon at the time. I always mix it in a separate container before pouring it into the tank to make sure it is mixed properly.
 
I think most are using 4 ozs. per gallon. I go 4.5 cause everything is better when it's slippery.
 
I just got a couple of the arch tensioners. The arch is 5/16 in steel, and seems real sturdy. They come with 2 bolts for the roller, but you will need to make your own spacer bushing. It makes since cause with the arch to the outside of the seat and chain stays the bushing length is your only adjustment for alignment. I suppose you could even use it to mount a nylon block like the Dog was talking about.
 
..But until I see them start making something better, I will always say the tensioner that comes with the kits is JUNK.
You do know there are dozens of different kits from various manufactures and most are crap right?
I do, and that's why I stick with genuine Skyhawk kits.
Everything in it is quality from the larger 2/3 gallon gas tank to the bearing mounted tensioner pulley wheel.

If you start with the cheapest thing you can buy, you get what you pay for, a box of copied and recopied with cheaper material and even designs to make more money is worldwide known as the Chinese knock-off empire crap.

The bracket should not be bendable, and it should not be able to rotate on the chainstay.
It should be spring loaded, because the chain will have tight and loose spots.


(sigh) I don't know about your builds, but I make sure my back sprocket is true to start with, in short, no 'tight and loose', spots!

Anyway Dog, I am just trying to correct some of the bad advice you have been giving, and maybe help you is all ;-}
 
Back
Top